sidswift1

What choices are better truck or car best to get a V8 from our just in general to get a V8?

jedi03

Whatever has a good ls in it

sean710

ls1tech.com has all your answers

JM216S14

Straight 8 is what you want that or hemi

DopeSpike

Ford Flathead V8 It's a unique sound, and you can make power with some bolt on parts.

TurboTiger

All depends on your budget.

kashira kureijii

Best choice would be to toss it in the garbage and never come near a japanese car again

natas240

Ls3 is what runs my 1990 s13. Cost me about 10k total.


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bmhossain

LS motors are cheap and easy. If you're going to go V8 and want power that is "budget friendly" that's the way to go. There is a wealth of knowledge on swaps out there besides our S chassis community. For $400 for a 5.3 or 4.8 from the salvage yard on a motor that bolts up with a kit you can't go wrong. If price is a concern though no V8 swap is going to be cheap.

Croustibat

LS fit, so use one. Which one depends on use and budget.
Get a cast iron block for turbo charging (or for cheap). Aluminium for lightness, balance and NA. You need the "right one", as in the one with the correct oil sump, accessories and gearbox. Truck accessories and intake manifold don't fit, so if you go for a 5.3L you will need accesories and manifold from a car.

The swap will cost you minimum 10K. You don't want to read that of course, because you were told you could get an engine for cheap and thought it would be the most expensive, but it really is not. Whole exhaust from headers to exhaust tips, mounts, electricals, driveshaft, cooling and on and on.

If you don't have that money, you can"t swap.

Kingtal0n

When I finally go the V8 route, I will be doing a few things special,
1. the front of my car will come off easily so engine swaps can be done easily
2. Automatic transmission for easy driving and best performance / fastest car, no clutch to wear out
3. It will be turbo, because otherwise what was the point

Stock engines all day long to swap in and out with ease at 550-600bhp ftw

TurboTiger

In my Dodge 3500 I preferred having an automatic transmission, but otherwise I can't relate on choosing it over a manual when it comes to a "performance" car. To each their own I suppose.

drewc

I am currently piecing together all the parts to do a v8 swap in my s13 coupe. I am putting a small block chevy 350 out of a old work truck in mine. Has flat top pistons, aluminum race heads, mild cam etc... it will be mounted to a th400 with a 3800 stall. The whole swap together has cost me about 6k including everything. Because everyone is buying the ls swaps you can get a old small block for couple hundred bucks and rebuild it for next to nothing, not to mention the simplicity of a old v8 and wiring loom.

95_S14

anything with 8 pistons works

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drewr4411

L20 Vortec 4.8 (iron block)
LM7 (iron block)
L33 (truck motor but its aluminum) L33 had 799 heads (same as 243s), and a different cam I think....


Is what I am currently looking at myself. Most likely I will buy the LM7 as just a block and heads if I can find it.

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OBEEWON

My Skyline™ has an RB which is superior to any V8.

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gabefromcali

Haha this dude OBEEWON.. you crack me up with the "My Skyline" posts. This is like the third one I've seen so far.

OBEEWON

My Skyline™ is no laughing matter.
It has the soul of a thousand warriors.

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Kingtal0n

You have never been for a ride in a car then, with a real built auto. There is no comparison. The crisp nature of a shift can be had with increasing line pressure and the right clutches, while still being soft and accumulated to preserve component life (wear/tear). Each gear generally has its own clutches that aid with other friction materials to result with the final spin. For example the 1 to 2 shift in a 700R4 transmission for a V8 is brought on by the action of a wide band that stops the rotating of the a "reverse input drum" iirc. By modifying the nature of engagement, through fluid activation of valves, springs, pistons, all sealed into compartments, you can modify the exact nature of a shift at different throttle positions, making the vehicle a hassle free top performer at any speed. Furthermore you can reduce drivetrain mass in the converter and increase efficiency by using a modern small diameter high performance unit with a reasonable stall for the combination. In my case it would be around 2800rpm, bringing me to the threshold of boost with gentle power braking, and just like the rotating energy advantage a clutch gives us for drag racing (by "dumping it" from higher rpm) the converter is capable of multiplying torque and providing a consistent forward momentum in any traffic situation. With the right turbocharger it would be alive in all situations, and by using mostly OEM components and keeping the redline reasonable (in the 6000's for a street car on OEM components) it could be dependable. By lowering drivetrain mass and using lighter rotating components inside the transmission we are trying to achieve lower drivetrain loss, and improve economy. A manual trans typically wins for both departments, as with all things you give up something, so the loss would have to be worth it. I feel like it is, I had the opportunity to drive one and I am hooked for life. Knowing you can induce a gentle spin on an accumulated 1 to 2 shift with 45%~ throttle is very fun and addicting. I get the sense that the vehicle is well connected "thing" as the whole chassis seems to go through the motions of loading and the arm geometries all assume shapes as they respond to the change in force provided by the automatic that sometimes results with a slight tire spin. By using boost per speed settings I would set the boost just high enough to almost spin the tire on my chosen surface to give precise consistency to the absolute threshold at the surface of the tires, and adjust as necessary for different situations.

You would have a hard time catching the car in most daily situations, and it would get reasonable fuel economy by using a modern lockup converter and lighter internal components. It will achieve 27+mpg from a V8 powered 240sx automatic at 3000lbs with mostly OEM parts in the engine if I ever do, and make it better by reducing weight of any parts of course. Honestly, stability at high speeds may be the only real problem, as the 240sx is more well suited to the 350 horsepower sr powered engine, than a brutish 650rwhp V8. I feel like 500~ is a most practical maximum for a daily with that sort of weight, but lol when I say it now I have to laugh at what is really practical, a 500 horsepower engine? Sure why not

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Sills

Toyotas 1UZ is a solid engine (Its a toyota engine...) V8, lots of reliable power and not super expensive.

Ls is definitely the easy to find economy engine though if thats what youre looking for.