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07-26-2016, 09:30 PM | #1 |
Leaky Injector
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408ci LSx Stroker 300zx Build
Hey everyone my names Nick Presta and i live in CT. Let me start off by saying that im creating this build thread after the swap has been completed.
Feel free to inbox me on here or DM me on instagram (@nickpresta) if you have any questions what so ever, i would be glad to help. I also have exhaust clips on my instagram of the car currently running(tuned) for those curious. I don't know how to embed videos on here so i just posted there. Lets get started then: I purchased the motor back on July 11th 2014. After months of debating on the ls swap and after years of headaches due to the VG30dett, i finally took the plunge. Later that day, i crashed my cherry red 300zx while driving home in the rain from work, Hydroplaning into a pole.( the car had 71k original miles) this was a huge setback, seeing as my car was priced by the insurance company for close to nothing. I go no money from the insurance company. I then spent the following weeks-months in trying to scavenge what i could from my wrecked car. I sold all the parts i could, and kept the parts i knew i would need. I picked up a 1991 N/A Black 2+0 300zx with 72k using the money i got from parts and a personal loan. Luckily all my suspension was good except for the passenger side coilover, and the cracked wheel.. i wont go into the part out, or my old z seeing as this is a build thread for my new z. The car was a single owner, all stock except for Jspec tail lights and clear side markers and a TT spoiler. I was super happy with the purchase and extremely excited to begin this build i have been dreaming about for years. Here is how the car after installing all my old suspension, wheels, front lip I then picked up a Stillen Type 3 Lip and got it painted and i installed it onto the car. My wheels where off my old car except i had to buy a new one because the passenger side wheels cracked in half during the crash. All the wheels were curb rashed from the accident, so i went and had them fixed and powder coated. Here is how the car after sat after installing all my old suspension and wheels. I then started to order parts, slowly but surely, paycheck after paycheck. The first few things i purchased was a bare LS6 Intake manifold LS1 TB LS6 Rails and 28lb injectors and a LS2 timing chain, along with a new C6 Corvette water pump and harmonic balancer. AIV and TPS sensor A used Vengeance racing vrx5 camshaft (dont worry i upgrade all these parts in time, but i had no idea i would be doing a stroker this early on) Dual valve springs with retainers and seals 7.400 pushrods trunion rocker upgrade kit for the oem rockers I dont have pics of some stuff.. but ill list them anyway. Here is a picture of the wheels after the powercoating Heres some more parts, OEM crank bolt, water pump gaskets, timing cover gasket and rear main seal. Along with that ls2 timing chain I purchased LOJ Innovations 300zx ls swap kit along with a wiring specialties z32 ls chassis wiring harness. i purchased a corvette fuel filter with some AN fittings and hoses (the plastic quick release fuel clamps were not cutting it for me) so i bought AN hose and corresponding 6an fittings. ]I was gathering parts for a very long time before actually pulling the motor in my z. more parts LOJ innovations oil filter relocation kit Southbend street disc good for 575 torque also picked up some morel 5290 hydraulic lifters i pulled the water pump fittings out, and taped them to install a 10an and 12an fittings to run to the heater core also purchased some hose 10an hose and 12an hose along with 150 degree elbow fittings.. Boy did i spend alot of money on AN hose and fitting during this build. Each of the AN elbows were 25$. i stripped one of them so i had to buy another. I also tried to run a 120 degree and 150 degree.. the 120 degree was not tight enough to make it under the power steering pump so i had to buy another 150 degree one. I also picked up a LS6 Valley cover, a Catch can with corresponding AN fittings, and some Holley Fuel Rails along with some fast 36lb injectors. i also purchased a mishimoto nissan sentra ser spec v radiator and dual fans. ( please don't buy this radiator and fan setup, it was absolute garbage and gave me cooling issues for months) at this point i started to take the engine apart. removed the intake manifold and valve covers to check out that valve train. Also removed the rockers, pushrods, headbolts in anticipation to see the cylinder wear of this motor with 90k. Not that it matters now, but then i didn't know i was getting a new rotating assembly in the near future haha. so dirty ahah. removed the oem truck manifolds Last edited by 300ztt; 07-27-2016 at 11:23 AM.. |
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07-27-2016, 10:25 AM | #2 |
Leaky Injector
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I then sent the heads out to Advanced Inductions! Man they do awesome work!
got their 226cc CNC port job. I also sent them my springs, retainers etc to get installed. i picked up ARP Head studs aswell, ARP Main studs, ARP Cam bolts, ARP rocker bolts. No pics of these, never took any. But i have receipts haha. I also bought a ported LS6 Oil Pump from Texas Speed and performance to add to my collection. (its in the box there lol..) so at this point in time, i started the motor pull. Here is the car the night i pulled it in i immediately started ripping it apart! i was so excited for this swap. i literally dreamed about it everyday for years. I had to be very careful pulling the motor and harness, seeing as i had a buyer lined up (who did purchase it a few months later) Once the motor was out, i started deleting all the old vg30 stuff i had no use for. The carbon canister, egr stuff, the metal hard piping under the bumper etc. I removed good amount of weight as well as rid of a lot of clutter. the new wiring harness i also removed the TT fuel pump back when i parted out my previous car. The Fuel Pump only had 6k on it seeing as i changed it before. So i installed it into my new setup! since i had the exhaust off the car i polished it i also picked up a trick flow steam vent kit because i wanted to vent the rear of the cylinder heads. Time for more go fast parts! i purchased a Fast LSXR 102mm Intake with Nick Williams throttle body, and i sold the fast 36lbers for some 42lbers. also got new valve cover grommets and bolts. i sold the LQ4 valve covers after i had them powder coated because the holley covers looked too good! Now that i had the motor out, i installed the harness through the firewall harness hole by removing the AC Evaporator. I then turned my attention to the 6.0L LQ4 i had sitting in the garage. By this time, i had made up my mind on going with a stroker kit. I figured go big or go home right? i'm already this far i might as well do it exactly how i dreamed it. I went with a 408ci rotating assembly made by eagle. It came with h-beam rods, mahle pistons, arp connecting rod bolts, piston rings, main bearings etc, but it did not come balanced.. so i had to pay an extra $180 on top of the 2200$ price for the assembly. I had the bare block machined and bored .030 over. Once the block was back from the machine shop, it was dropped it off at my best friends house. His father builds motors, and is amazing at it! I would then spend majority of my nights over at the mad scientists place for assembly. My buddies father noticed something off, the main bearing clearance was too tight.. and these main bearings came in the kit with the rotating assembly. He called jegs, and they said they will send the correct bearings. A few days pass by, the bearing arrive and the clearance is still too tight. Luckily for me, he caught that. Because if not.. i would have ran into many problems.. and most definitely spun a bearing. if i was installing the rotating assembly alone i would have missed this and blew the motor. The bearings that come with the kit should have been a perfect fit but were not. If this was not caught, i would have been out thousands of dollars all because jegs sent me the incorrect part. Moving past this, Jegs is an awesome company. But things happen. Lifters in Ported LS6 oil pump and ls2 timing chain on. Along with windage tray (which had to be spaced out because the stroker crank) Arp studs installed along with crank pulley, front timing cover, and my new camshaft! Test fitting drivers side header [ Last edited by 300ztt; 07-27-2016 at 11:28 AM.. |
07-27-2016, 10:26 AM | #3 |
Leaky Injector
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At this point in time, the short block has been assembled and is back at my house almost ready to go in!
The next day i installed the clutch and pressure plate while using the pilot bushing and transmission adapting plate purchased from LOJ innovations. New shift linkage also from LOJ and i purchased a short throw shifter from Z1 motorsports. New driveshaft ( had to measure it under the car after the tranny installation) Once i got the manifold bolted down, the harness sitting in the proper location (which took me a very long time to figure out) as you can see i had a lot of harness pulled into the engine bay.. and the manifold being so tight to the fire wall did not give me much room to play with the harness. i then installed the radiator which immediately gave me issues.. I had to get the inlet modified and moved down 4 inches to the left, then the AC lines kept getting in the way, and the AC condenser brackets were grinding on the back of the radiator. I also had to modify the thermostat housing because there was no clearance for the fans. I then filled the motor up with oil! i spent a very long time playing around with that radiator. If there is anything you take away from this, it is to not purchase that radiator or fans. In order to make the headers fit, you had to grind off the bracket on the firewall of the passenger side, and bend the line over. The one thing that still makes me nervous is the clearance between the oil pan and the power steering line. You can fit a piece of paper through, nothing more. But it works and has not given me an issue up to date (650 miles on the motor right now) i then made a cheap little 4inch intake with a speed density bung. I'm not running a MAF. I installed the whole exhaust, hardest part was the drivers side header. The steering column needs to be passed through it. * I ordered a griffin radiator, 18x28x3 and it was way too tall. So i returned it. I then purchased a different griffin universal dual pass radiator with the inlet and outlet on the passenger side. i fabbed up some pretty cool radiator lower mounts i then purchased a setrab 34 row oil cooler, thermostat, and corresponding an fittings and hose. plumbed it up to the oil filter relocation tree i then tried to make a custom fan shroud using the mishimoto fans. Car basically overheated still. I then removed the fans, went with a spal 16" with no shroud. and the car runs 175-180 all day long!! on a 90+ degree day i'm driving at 188-190. i also had the radiator outlet modified to a 90. i wish i did the same with the inlet but was to anxious to drive the car. weld might be a little ugly but you do what you gotta do lol ]last thing i did was make a bracket for the oil cooler, plumb the lines, and install the new fan. Heres new fan 40amp fuse is necessary with this fan Last edited by 300ztt; 07-28-2016 at 06:34 AM.. |
07-27-2016, 11:06 AM | #4 |
Zilvia FREAK!
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I feel like you and Jimmy Oaks would be friends haha. He's a friend of one of my friends who just built a red 300 with an LS1 using the LOJ kit in CT.
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07-27-2016, 11:20 AM | #6 |
Leaky Injector
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i then shrouded the front bumper to ram the air into the radiator
and that is basically where i am right now. i let out a lot of crucial details and issues i ran into. There were many issues with fitment and fabrication. But i just wanted to put the main points in here. I am not sure how to post videos.. car is running perfect right now. If anyone knows how to embed a video let me know. thanks for reading! |
07-28-2016, 06:37 AM | #12 |
Leaky Injector
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Well the ls was a tight fit.. But there is more room. And the motor is much easier to work on and more reliable than the VG. Also makes a lot more power and sounds better, Basically all around better in every way.
you have about 1 inch behind the heads to the fire wall, and about a half an inch from the top of the bell housing to the firewall tranny tunnel. But overall there is much more room. |
07-27-2016, 08:32 PM | #13 |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 35
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Very nice build! Just got my hands on a 6.0 LS2 for my s14, with intentions on going 402 stroker. Still reading up, before I start buying things, but I definitely want to run that same Fast 102!
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07-28-2016, 06:39 AM | #14 |
Leaky Injector
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You dont need the fast 102 unless you have more cubic inches. It cant really be used 100% of its full potential on a stock 6.0l or 5.3. An ls6 manifold would work fine. But if you are doing the 402, i would just do the 408 lmao. same price for it all, and i would pick up the fast 102 then. plus with bigger cubic inches means you can run a bigger cam
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07-30-2016, 04:34 PM | #15 | |
Zilvia Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Austin, TX
Age: 35
Posts: 208
Trader Rating: (3)
Feedback Score: 3 reviews
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Quote:
The kits might be similar price, but machining labor gets tacked on with that. I do need to have the block inspected since it spun a rod 6 bearing. Even with that problem, overall price on the block was hard to pass up. |
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07-31-2016, 06:17 PM | #16 | |
Leaky Injector
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Quote:
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07-29-2016, 07:48 AM | #20 |
Leaky Injector
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08-06-2016, 05:30 AM | #24 |
Leaky Injector
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10-22-2016, 06:42 PM | #26 |
Leaky Injector
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Pics of the new wheels and specs.
18x9.5+35(w/3mm spacer to clear calipers) 18x10+22 Enkei RS05RR Gunmetal Toyo Proxies R888 255/35/18 275/35/18 Car is going away soon for the winter, I will be doing a lot of cleaning up of the engine bay, re-routing the intake piping under the headlight, relocating my PS reservoir, Fuse box relocation and much more! i'll be posting pics during the process! |
10-28-2016, 08:20 AM | #28 |
Zilvia Member
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How did you get completely clear front turn signals?
Did you buy them like that or did you modify them yourself? I have the jdm kind and there is an amber dome over the turn bulb.
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1991 Z32 NA t-tops 5 speed 1997 S14 KA24 5 speed |
11-06-2016, 08:50 PM | #30 |
Leaky Injector
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thanks, it put down 480/460 wheel on a mustang dyno. that was with zero miles on the motor,while overheating very badly... had alot of over heating issues through out the beginning stages of the build. power number is kinda low for being a 408 with the corresponding mods i have, especially the torque.. but i plan to get it re dyno'd in the spring and hopefully i can crack the 500whp mark. cam i got also doesnt help torque, its known for producing top end HP with the trade off for torque.
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300zx, lsswap, lsx, z32 |
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