Char

I have been working on a S13 for a few months now, mostly prepping it for track use. I should by buying a Redtop within the next few months and before I drop it into the chassis I want to get it together and all the parts on it before hand so I wont have to tear it back out again.

I want to be able to attain 350-400HP, though on a track I will be limiting it to around 300HP (depending on weight) using a AEM ECM and boost control solenoid. I know with such low power numbers I wont have to worry too much about reliability, but I want it to be able to handle higher RPMs with no problems.

Personally I dont know what parts I should use for my goals. Not really looking for what brands, can do that myself, more so what kind I need. Such as cams, turbos (have a couple ideas), intercoolers, ect.

MaD1337M3DRiV3r

I would say delete this thread or have it locked before the negative comments start!

The best thing to do after that is search.

Your answer:
It sounds like you might be autocrossing the car, if so stick with the KA and just finish up your suspension.

If you insist on getting an SR and want 300whp just get the S15 spec-r turbo, bigger injectors, headgasket, new oil pump, new water pump, walboro, fmic, power fc, good plugs, nice bov, bigger radiator, z32 maf, the list goes on and you wont be done there.

wangan_cruiser

i second to him. i smell tons of red squares and flames coming.

SR2Zero

Turbo, most likely just go with a gt2871r... its all the rage now. Hah.

For "high rpms" get solid lifters, springs, retainers, and most likely for what your looking for 256/256 or 264/264.

Thats 350 whp. Easy enough.

SR2Zero

Oh and as far as intercoolers, just get a good brand name. Avoid ebay and that crap, buy something thats going to fit good and work well the first time (nothing against godspeed and all that stuff but its definetely not for me.

Char

Info like this is exactly what I was looking for... Thank you very much.

Springs and retainers were pretty obvious to me, wasnt sure if I should need solid lifters. What spec cams I really had No idea. For turbos I was thinking T28s but I dont really know much about those myself, was going to do more research but thats hard to do unless you talk to people that have used a few, such as someone from the company.

Oh.. and the KA died, so I might as well put in a SR. Already have experience with SR20s from my SE-R.

I dont care if people start to flame, thats their own fault for being such assholes. I know enough about cars to do the work myself, just not always whats best for what situation. I didnt want to end up doing something like buying 272 duration cams and have it be overkill and useless for me.
Though I dont mind as much if this car is less "street-able", I dont want it to be useless either.

SR2Zero

Solid lifters or lash killers are a must if your looking for a definitive higher rpm and to maintain it... Pretty much if you're looking for a reliable 350 - 400 the gt2871r is the way to go .64 ar for the fastest spooling, assuming you're doing drift, road race, autocross and not drag. The S15 turbo is going to peak lower than the 350-400 power range if you want just 300, it should suit your need.

No prob for the info.

Char

What about injectors?

SR2Zero

740's. Upgrade you're fuel pump to a walbro.

Char

Yeah, 255lph pump. That is, before (if) I go fuel cell. I still got to learn about that part though.

Even if I had larger injecters, couldnt I just make them pump in less fuel if Im using something like the AEM?

MaD1337M3DRiV3r

Dont forget a 3inch downpipe, I happen to be selling one http://www.zilvia.net/f/showthread.php?t=190995

Char

Intake and exhaust are already covered. Like I said, I have a SE-R so I have an idea about what Im doing but just dont exactly know what parts to match with the turbo for my goals. Plus others do have alot more experience then me so I was looking for feedback.

fliprayzin240sx

Well heres my question, why do you want a higher redline if your only shooting for a low HP? For the most part, only reason you would want a higher redline is for larger turbos. If your gonna limit yourself to something like a GT2871R, there is absolutely no need for higher redline. People go solid lifters due to small rate of tolerances for big cams. Again with a turbo as small as GT2871R bottom mount, you wont need something that aggressive of cams. Tomei Poncams with the more aggessive lift (12) and atleast 264 duration, then your talking solid lifters territory. Go 272 and definitely solid lifters...

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Char

Sorry, I actually noticed my mistake earlier just forgot to correct myself.

I dont mean a higher powerband, just a higher "redline", where as I can let it rev and not worry about breaking something. Along with that I also meant being able to stay at high revs without worrying about anything breaking.

Kind of mixed me up with that line. Are you saying I should, or if I was to I should use solid lifters? And as far as I know larger cams will help the engine breath more, though causing the lower rpms to suffer. Since this isnt going to be a daily driver and mostly a track car Im not too worried about it, but is there any other downside to larger cams? Wouldnt larger cams also help spool the turbo quicker?

flip3d

the main suggestion i have for you is to replace ALL the seals on the SR when you get it. Replace the oil and water pump. Clean whatever can be cleaned. (IM, TB, IACV) Make sure you get a new throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and clutch fork pivot. AND FOR THE LOVE OF GOD PLEASE PUT THE COOLANT RETURN LINE ON BEFORE YOU PUT THE MOTOR IN! :P

I learned all of this the hard way. Took me 3 months to get my SR running right and I still have to drop the trans for the TOB, PB and pivot.

Other than all the OEM crap, I say...
tubular manifold, S15 turbo, new turbo elbow 3'' DP, 3'' exhaust
Intake, FMIC,
Walbro 255, Nismo FPR, Nismo 550cc or higher injectors, NEW INJECTOR O-rings!

Char

Oh dont worry... Im going to tear the whole motor down, checking it and replacing most with newer parts. Electric Water Pump (like I said, not DD), every seal in the engine, AMSOIL Synthetic. So on So on. I want the motor to be as new as possible when it goes in so I wont have problems down the road.

Like I said.. I may not know what parts I need for said goals, but I know what work needs to be done and how to do it.

BiG MiKE86

if ur going to be rebuilding the engine (new larger pistons, rings,.. etc.) DO NOT run synthetic oil for the first 1k+ miles - Here are some good links for ur motor build/break in - goodluck

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/309576
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/306956
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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Char

Thanks for the links. If I ever get some time... I will definitely read them fully.

I quoted that from one of them because it is actually what I was told by a older guy (in his 60s) that use to built V8s back in the hayday of American Muscle. Oddly enough, even being in the middle of no where (I would consider North East PA the middle of no where) there are a LOT of guys around here that know about cars and a Lot of classic cars running around. So I will always have experienced friends and friends of friends that know how to do such things right.

Char

Another quick thing about the third link. Unless I hone the cylinder block (might as well) there is no point to breaking it in this way either.