amorreale24

The secret is removing the steering shaft and putting it through the header

Laotian240

For your oil pan kit with the baffles, is it necessary/recommended to still run accusump?

eagleeyes221

Im not on my car. I also havent had it on the track yet, just hooning on backroads. I havent seen my pressures dip below 38psi after the car is up to temp

JZ78

What other automatics will let tranny mounts fit besides the 4l80 and 4l60?

sent from my mind

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91 s13 hatch back in the game

JGrayo2012

first and foremost I would like to say that this is not a good kit to buy if you do not have access to tools like a grinder/cutting wheel or a welder, and some of the hardware is not provided, but i do agree that if the kinks in this kit were worked out it would be the best kit for price on the market. CX has been cooperative about any questions ive had throughout the install

I have ran the NA kit and also have the turbo kit for my ls swap, so if you have any questions feel free to ask me, my car is a 1990 s13 hatch, 76mm 5.3 swapped

NA kit

-the motor mounts are said to be adjustable for your desired position, but keep in mind that the driveshaft and sway bar on the vehicle is not adjustable. So there is very little room for adjustment, I also had to trim one of the motor mounts to clear the NA headers.

-transmount works great, good fitment

-the oil pan could have been shaped better for fitment purposes, the clearances between the sub frame and sway bar are very tight. Also the flange on the CX oil pan is approx 1/2in thicker than the stock oil pan, so if you are reusing factory length bolts at factory torque spec you will strip the block! longer bolts are a must if you dont want oil leaks.The oil lines take some work to route in the engine bay from the fittings on the oil pan, but they are reasonable.

-the drive shaft that came with the swap appeared to be nice, but after the car was up and running i was having terrible issues with its balance, cx claimed they are computer balanced, but ive used 2 different trans and differentials so i knew it was the shaft, i took the shaft to a shop and had to pay them to re balance it, it was way out of spec, and the shaft did not appear to be missing weights or damaged.

-the NA headers fit well, would recommend new longer bolts for these when installing, they cleared the steering shaft fine. you will need 120 degree boots and sleeves to get them around the headers

-the header back exhaust provided hung way too low to the ground, it would have been impossible to drive the car without modification, but it sounds pretty good.

for the turbo kit

-the turbo manifolds fit great, no issues

-the crossover pipe fit great, no issues

-the oil lines, feed/return provided fit great and have no issues, but initially i was not sent all of the proper fittings to run them, i had to call cx and have them shipped to me. and also there is a bung for the oil return provided but it is almost impossible to find a place for it, you will have to drill or weld something in the front cover or block, which will be hard to do with the motor in the car.

-the 76mm turbo came, had very little shaft play, i looked inside the turbo and the inlet had a hole/crack in the casting and i had to fill it. was not pleased. there is also not a threaded port/fitting for the wastegates boost reference on the turbo or intercooler piping so you will have to make one.

-the BOV provided comes with 2 springs, the one installed when you receive it is way to light, it stays open at idle, and the second spring is way to heavy, it wont blow off untill i cut throttle at around 9psi.

-the wastegates i received did not come with the same size v-band flanges that were affixed to the manifolds, CX said that they either welded the wrong flanges on the manifolds, or sent me the wrong waste gates. They partially refunded my money, and i welded the correct flanges onto the manifolds myself. but it appears that they sent the wrong size waste gates, their size on the both boxes they came in was peeled off, and the car goes well past 8psi they are supposed to be rated at, i am pretty sure they gave me 12 psi wastegates. not happy about this either.

-the intercooler and piping is good quality and fits well, and the couplers and clamps are good quality as well.

IN CONCLUSION

please do not expect that if you buy this kit you will have it installed over the weekend, or even over the week. you will need to modify almost everything in some way, you will need to order extra fittings and hardware etc, and you will probably need to contact CX for support and or parts, keep in mind they are on the west coast, so if you are in the east and call them before noon they arent even open yet. I personally feel that they do not do a good job of checking quality of their products before sending them out, and there are some issues with their kit that need to be worked out. For the price this kit is fair, but after you figure the money you need to invest to solve some of the problems with the kit, it may be worth buying a kit from a more quality oriented company.

JGrayo2012

first and foremost I would like to say that this is not a good kit to buy if you do not have access to tools like a grinder/cutting wheel or a welder, and some of the hardware is not provided, but i do agree that if the kinks in this kit were worked out it would be the best kit for price on the market. CX has been cooperative about any questions ive had throughout the install

I have ran the NA kit and also have the turbo kit for my ls swap, so if you have any questions feel free to ask me, my car is a 1990 s13 hatch, 76mm 5.3 swapped

NA kit

-the motor mounts are said to be adjustable for your desired position, but keep in mind that the driveshaft and sway bar on the vehicle is not adjustable. So there is very little room for adjustment, I also had to trim one of the motor mounts to clear the NA headers.

-transmount works great, good fitment

-the oil pan could have been shaped better for fitment purposes, the clearances between the sub frame and sway bar are very tight. Also the flange on the CX oil pan is approx 1/2in thicker than the stock oil pan, so if you are reusing factory length bolts at factory torque spec you will strip the block! longer bolts are a must if you dont want oil leaks.The oil lines take some work to route in the engine bay from the fittings on the oil pan, but they are reasonable.

-the drive shaft that came with the swap appeared to be nice, but after the car was up and running i was having terrible issues with its balance, cx claimed they are computer balanced, but ive used 2 different trans and differentials so i knew it was the shaft, i took the shaft to a shop and had to pay them to re balance it, it was way out of spec, and the shaft did not appear to be missing weights or damaged.

-the NA headers fit well, would recommend new longer bolts for these when installing, they cleared the steering shaft fine. you will need 120 degree boots and sleeves to get them around the headers

-the header back exhaust provided hung way too low to the ground, it would have been impossible to drive the car without modification, but it sounds pretty good.

for the turbo kit

-the turbo manifolds fit great, no issues

-the crossover pipe fit great, no issues

-the oil lines, feed/return provided fit great and have no issues, but initially i was not sent all of the proper fittings to run them, i had to call cx and have them shipped to me. and also there is a bung for the oil return provided but it is almost impossible to find a place for it, you will have to drill or weld something in the front cover or block, which will be hard to do with the motor in the car.

-the 76mm turbo came, had very little shaft play, i looked inside the turbo and the inlet had a hole/crack in the casting and i had to fill it. was not pleased. there is also not a threaded port/fitting for the wastegates boost reference on the turbo or intercooler piping so you will have to make one.

-the BOV provided comes with 2 springs, the one installed when you receive it is way to light, it stays open at idle, and the second spring is way to heavy, it wont blow off untill i cut throttle at around 9psi.

-the wastegates i received did not come with the same size v-band flanges that were affixed to the manifolds, CX said that they either welded the wrong flanges on the manifolds, or sent me the wrong waste gates. They partially refunded my money, and i welded the correct flanges onto the manifolds myself. but it appears that they sent the wrong size waste gates, their size on the both boxes they came in was peeled off, and the car goes well past 8psi they are supposed to be rated at, i am pretty sure they gave me 12 psi wastegates. not happy about this either.

-the intercooler and piping is good quality and fits well, and the couplers and clamps are good quality as well.

IN CONCLUSION

please do not expect that if you buy this kit you will have it installed over the weekend, or even over the week. you will need to modify almost everything in some way, you will need to order extra fittings and hardware etc, and you will probably need to contact CX for support and or parts, keep in mind they are on the west coast, so if you are in the east and call them before noon they arent even open yet. I personally feel that they do not do a good job of checking quality of their products before sending them out, and there are some issues with their kit that need to be worked out. For the price this kit is fair, but after you figure the money you need to invest to solve some of the problems with the kit, it may be worth buying a kit from a more quality oriented company.

bmfonda

first of all my entire experience with this company has been horrible. they only have a one week warranty (noone can install this and test it in a week). for the installation of the oil pan i had to cut the windage tray to make the pickup fit and drill half the holes on the pan to make them line up and even then the pickup was blocking one of the baffles shut so whats the point of having a baffled oil pan. when i noticed these problems 5 days after i bought it i called them and asked to exchange the product and they told me to keep trying to make it fit and call back in a few days. so i called back a few days later to exchange the product and they told me there is nothing they could do because i was past the one week warranty even though i called them to express the problem a few days before. after hassling them for a while they offered me $20 cash back..... i spent almost $1000 on this sway kit and they offer me $20 back and only if i come pick it up in person. after jerry rigging the pan to fit i called to ask the oil capacity of the pan and they said "about 6 or 7 quarts". WTF you dont even know the capacity of the pan you make???
also with their manifolds i had to go get a new O2 sensor bung welded in because the bung on the passanger side it pointed STRAIGHT at the trasmission (its like they fitted the motor and exhaust without the transmission) with less than an inch between the two. the passanger side manifold is literally touching the starter and you have to fight the starter to get the manifold bolts in. as stated by the guy above me you have to cut part of the motor mount base to fit the manifolds also.


i have had this kit installed for 2 years and 15k miles and i had one of the baffles break/bind up in the oil pan and i lost all oil pressure when i would make a left turn. luckily i noticed the pressure drop and parked the car until i bought a REAL oil pan from Canton Racing.
IMG_0687 - Copy.JPG
this is the motor mount after 15k miles, the urethane is falling out and flaking off. motor mounts should not fail after 2 years.
IMG_0681 - Copy.JPG
had to either drop the subframe or pull the motor to replace the pan with a real pan.
IMG_0693 - Copy.JPG

i have had nothing but trouble with this sway kit. as the other guy stated above, the pan has very tight clearance from the subframe to the sway bar and my sway bar would tap the oil pan slightly.

overall this kit is a piece of shit and i would have dont it differently if i had known this.

Attached Images

IMG_0686 - Copy.JPG (29.3 KB, 13 views)

Jimmy1614

Sorry to bring up old shit but I was doing a bit of research on remote oil filter plumbing for my ls1 and came across this. Am I mistaken or is this plumbed wrong. Looks like out of filter to the out port of the pump to me. Again sorry to bring up an old thread.

afishysilvia

Routing should be exactly same as oem. closest to the transmission is the in.

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Jimmy1614

That what I thought. If you look at how cx racing routed it in the pic they have it out of the center of the filter to the out on the engine side.

afishysilvia

I am using CX's kit currently and let me tell you, research more and double check everything. The kit is cheap, and so is their advice in most cases. Good luck

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Kingtal0n

Don't do it this way. There is far too much volume of oil between the pump and the block. Oil doesn't get into the engine until it gets into the "in" fitting in the oil pan. Even with just a relocation filter alone it takes around 30 revolutions to get oil into the engine and those filters are often placed in such a way that they drain overnight so each morning your engine runs without pressure for extended periods each first start.

Put an oil pressure gauge on the top of the engine behind the intake manifold, and then crank the engine with the plugs out on a battery charger and see how long it takes to get oil through that hose. It might be ok if you have a high output oil pump- I am not sure. The way I overcome this problem is with a pre-oil accumulator on the engine (if you have that then it will be fine).

afishysilvia

+1 for what Kingtal0n said. I went with a melling high volume/pressure oil pump have had no issues. I do not have a cooler on it yet however.

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