entrapm3nt

Ok I've searched everywhere and still haven't found the exact issue. 1st gear usually pulls fine then once I get 2nd during wot it starts of 10s then starts to rise into the 13s. It runs lean before I hit max boost. It's a sr20det fully built. Here's some mods to help figure out my issue. 1000cc injectors, 340 aeromotive fuel pump, aeromotive fpr set at 55 at idle. Boost is set at 9 low 18 high. (It's possible my boost controller doesn't have current setings as I just got it) z32 maf, open bov, rs empathy tune, 270 cams, plugs gapped to .28. Changed new cts. Checked tps at 4.5v. Checked cas. Set ignition timing. Used consult and laptop still can't pinpoint issue. Any ideas here guys? I should have damn hear 500 hp with this set up. 4k in machine work. Car feels slow. Thanks in advance for your time.

derass

Maybe wiring to the fuel pump or some kind of restriction? Try to check it under load. I used a mechanical gauge tape to my wiper arm as I drove around.

I also had my AEM wideband sensor fail after a few years. I would read fine at idle but under load it would go max lean (display ---). Changed the sensor and it read fine. I used this test: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onbjzEOZtMs

jr_ss

If your pump isn't hardwired, that could be an issue. Usually the factory wiring can't keep up with the amperage demand under load on larger pumps and fuel systems causing the voltage to drop. Put a volt meter on your pump wires and see what it drops to. Under 12vs will cause issues with your fueling demands, especially injectors.

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dorkidori_s13

Fuel pump wiring most likely. If youre on stock wiring, your pump is dropping voltage in higher RPMs as OE S-chassis wiring sucks and cannot carry proper current under higher loads (especially in a setup like yours). Run a relay directly from the battery back to the pump

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KAT-PWR

What turbo?

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entrapm3nt

My fuel pump is def using stock wiring and im guessing this is the issue. Im a big noob when it comes to wiring. I did however just wire in that fuel pump 2 days ago thinking the stock wiring would be fine.had a 255 walbro that i thought was going out. Anyways where do i find a relay to do this? Any write up on this? like i said im not great with wiring at all. I should also note i have a sort of cheap battery. Would upgrading my battery help as well? its in the trunk right near the fuel pump so this shouldnt be too hard but i have no idea where to start. thanks again guys.

to the other guy asking what turbo i have. not sure why that matters but its a GT2871R

KAT-PWR

I ask what kind of turbo because when someone makes claims like "should be near 500whp" and they're using a 400hp turbo (when pushed hard on a good tune) it shows what we're working with.

You can google around and find the "how to" for the fuel pump relay wiring.

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entrapm3nt

Whoa no need to be rude. I was just saying the car should be fast and its super slow. And correct me if im wrong but i thought the 56 trim version of the gt2871r is good up to 475hp? Yes im aware of the "how to" videos. Im more just wondering what gauge wire to use, what relay etc. I lost the paperwork for the fuel pump i just put in that would have been very helpful. But yeah if i posted my mod list you would say the same thing. the engine "should" have near 500 hp. Anyways back to the fuel issue. Thank you everyone for your comments. Hopefully i can get this sorted out soon.

brndck

+1 for hard wire your fuel pump
(you'll need a dedicated relay, I use a dedicated fuse as well)

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dorkidori_s13

pretty much the only fuel pump that doesnt lose voltage in higher power band ranges is the Walbro 255 (itll drop back a few PSI at most). but walbros are well known for their pissy lifespans if you run them below 1/4 of a tank as the pump will burn up due to improper cooling.

as brndck said above, run a dedicated relay from your battery to your fuel pump and youll be set. try to mount the relay somewhere in the trunk area where it will have ample venting room as they do tend to get quite hot (especially if youre running a larger fuel pump).

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Karlhammer

Fused power with a relay is pretty much a must. and there's no exhaust leaks around the sensor that could be causing it to read false? do you have the ability to see what the stock sensor is seeing to compare? You should get a DMM and wire it up so when you're driving around you can see how much voltage the pump is getting.

dorkidori_s13

if you have a fuel pressure gauge, that will give you indication voltage dropping as well. if the fuel pressure dives in higher RPMs, it means your pump is most likely losing voltage.

i know for a fact on S13s, that aeromotive pump you has loses voltage at top end because i had one installed briefly while i was waiting on a new walbro. it would drop back roughly 10-15psi on fuel pressure via my gauge which is NOT good!!! my walbro only drops back 2-3 psi at most. its not a faulty pump either, its simply that the pump itself needs a full 12v going to and the OE wiring in S13s can only supply up to roughly 10-11v at max. the gauge of the wiring is too thin and cant push proper voltage, hence running a relay directly from battery to pump.

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Karlhammer

What fuel pressure regulator are you runinng? We've seen fuel lab brand fail the most. Had a couple really old Aeromotive ones fail.

Kingtal0n

if you have a stand alone you max injector duty should correlate with power output, otherwise it is a fuel pump/feed issue

entrapm3nt

I have a areomotive fpr thats brand new

I have a rom ecu. plan on going stand alone pretty soon.

entrapm3nt

So i bought all the stuff i need im going to wire it all up this weekend and let you guys know if it fixed the problem. Thanks

entrapm3nt

So i wired everything up perfect but my car is still going lean during wot. guess it was something else also. 1st gear no longer leans out but every other gear does. I was also thinking maybe my battery or alternator is maxing out. I had the aftermarket fan on, defrost, a double din, digital boost controller, and 5 digital gauges. I have like a 675cca napa battery. Would upgrading to a yellow top help? Only other thing i could think of is maybe timing or tune. basicly everything else is brand new.

brndck

I had a BRAND NEW aeromotive take a shit on me. the diaphragm tore with only 40-50 miles on it, and it was sucking fuel through the vacuum hose, directly into my intake manifold. could easily have cost me an engine if it had hydrolocked.

aeromotive wouldn't warranty it either since I bought it off ebay. Had to spend another $50 to buy a new diaphragm. Its been fine ever since then.

who tuned the car? I'm hoping they ran a wideband on it while tuning???

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entrapm3nt

its just a rs-enthalpy rom tune. The car hasnt been dyno tuned. I just sent it to him and he sent it back. A stand alone will be my next upgrade or maybe a power fc i haven't decided yet. That aeromotive statement you said is scary lol. Usually they have the best products thats why i went with them.

jedi03

plus one on lack of fuel...

inopsey

when was the last time you changed your fuel filter?

entrapm3nt

Yeah its a brand new z32 fuel filter probably 100 miles ago. Also changed cts, new maf, new spark plugs, new fpr, fuel pump and more I can't think of all in the past month

entrapm3nt

any other ideas why i would be going lean during wot? ive just been buying parts and throwing them at the car with no luck.

KAT-PWR

What brand injectors?

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dorkidori_s13

well since youve rewired the fuel pump properly, i would say now that its down to the tune. ROM tunes are cute, but not worth it IMO. the amount of affordable stand alone ECUs on the market for the S13/S14 now is nuts... switching over to a PFC DJetro or AEM V2 would be highly recommended as you will be able to adjust areas of the tune that lean out to keep things stoich or even a little rich.

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dorkidori_s13

also, have you run a proper boost leak test on your motor by slowly pressurizing your IC system? this could all boil down to a faulty coupler or clamp.

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entrapm3nt

Yes, i have done a boost test. although that was many months ago probably the first thing i checked. i may check again tho. i remember for some reason it was reading nothing but had to turn the engine over more to check the boost pressure correctly.

Also I just thought of something that could be it. When i was wiring up the relay i used one of those easy fuse harnesses with wires pre attached. Im thinking those wires were only 16ga. so all my 10ga wiring is going to it. could this effect anything even tho the wires are very short? i could just find some female plugs and run the 10ga directly to the fuse.

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entrapm3nt

I also should add that my vacuum is reading about -15 inhg. but i was told that it was normal because of my 270/270 cams. Ive looked for leaks 100 times and found nothing.

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dorkidori_s13

might just be as simple as your tune... ROM tunes are garbage, they dont account for variables in weather conditions based upon where you live. theyre also not tuned directly to your actual car... theyre tuned based on predetermined parameters that you give the tuner who creates the tune for the chip. running full stand alone lets you compensate for variables on YOUR motor as well as YOUR weather conditions.

in Vegas, if you tune your car at any point of the year other than in the middle of summer, your tune will lean out heavily in the heat. oxygen density is much less in the heat than it is in the cold. once a Vegas car is tuned in the summer properly, it will run perfectly year round! same goes for phoenix, tucson and any other spot on the planet that is basically hell on earth lol

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entrapm3nt

Good information. a new ecu is def on next on my list. as far as that gauge wire on the harness relay tho do you think that will be ok or should i replace it with 10ga?

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