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My name is called.
1995, or 96-98? Only the 95 models have the amplifier in the driver door, and yes they are notorious for going out. The window relay is actually the accessory relay and powers the sunroof as well, so if none of these items work then the relay is the problem. It's located in the driver kick panel.
Here is what I would do, test the white/black wire at the master switch for ignition power. That turns the switches on from the key, through the relay. If there is no power, the relay or one of the larger fusible links under the hood (30A) is blown, there is also a 2pin circuit breaker at the top of the fusebox inside for the windows as well.
If you do have power at the switch, unplug the motor and hook a drill battery (9-18V) to it to verify the motor is good. If so, go back to the master switch and test for ground output to the amplifier (if it's a 95), I don't recall the wire colors but they're small, 18gauge, and will match two wires on the amplifier. These are a ground trigger, low current, so you can take a test light and directly probe them, the amp will 'click' and cycle if these are good. You can then test for power out of the amp on the blue and green wires, they're reversal rest at ground so both will show ground when resting, they will then each switch to 12V depending on window up/down signals from the switch. If it's not a 95 model, ignore the first step and go directly to the output wires, blue and green.
Do that and report back.
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FORMERLY R240NA
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