With the motor out of the car, and the problems identified, the block is off to the shop for inspection/machining. At this point I wasn't sure if we needed to over-bore the block b/c as I said there wasn't any damage so I held off from buying pistons until I got some word back from the shop. After a complete tear down there and some checking, we decided it would be better off to go with a set of 87's and rebore/hone. More on that a little later.
With the engine out, I was left with this. Usually the sight of my car in this condition starts to raise frustration b/c I've previously done all my swaps and builds in either an apartment complex parking lot or the back driveway behind my dad's house; neither of which makes for an enjoyable experience. With my new to me house and a disconnected 2 car garage, I'm set to take my time and really build what I want.
In an attempt to keep some room in the shop, I decided to leave the engine bay alone for a bit and turn my attention to the rear. I figured, it might go quicker and its pretty straight forward. So thanks to SPL the first of new parts show up for my solid sub frame mounting
Diff bushings
V2 solid mounts with removable spacers.
Before all of this, I had spent a little time upgrading bits back here but nothing as serious as this and with the subframe out from under the car it was time to see what the last couple years of drifting had done. So as most people often see, my slip-in collars couldn't prevent the inevitable bushing tear. Both fronts were almost completely severed and the ES poly bushings I had for the diff (including my track day worm clamp fix) weren't looking so good either.
All modifications to this point were: slip-in subframe collars / ES diff bushings / CS poly hangers / CS multi-links / some eccentric poly bushings for camber correction (the first mod the car saw after springs, lol) / the billet spacer I made for the driveshaft after switching from an ABS VLSD R200 to a non-abs housing that I put a KAAZ unit in and the 300zx rear brake/ebrake assembly.
This is how that tear down went. The most un-fun thing ever. burning them out is NOT the way to do it. That process is messy, takes forever, and stinks. I used my drill and went around drilling holes until the center of the bushing would come out. Then took a reciprocating saw to cut the majority of the bushing and finally ending with a hack saw. I like to use the hack saw towards the end b/c the bushing will pinch the saw once its completely cut. You can't tell what's going on with the power saw and risk cutting up the subframe.
Voila!
Welded on some heavy case washers to lock out the eccentrics and pressed in all of the bushings. I must have taken that last picture before the diff bushings went in.
So then I though, if I've come this far, I might as well do a bit more. So I pulled all the control arms, pressed out all of the old bushings and ball joints.
With everything in hand, and ready for new parts I wasn't feeling the dodgy look of all the parts. So I had everything powder coated fine texture black; because why not? Also bought all new ES black bushings, and ball joints for the spindles, lower and forward control arms.
