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On some level I still feel like I own the car and that I need to depend on it daily to get me to school... that is why I express this level of concern regarding the RPM of the engine on the highway. The truth is... If the new owner understands the risks of operating the antique engine at 3500+rpm continously on the highway.... then I would simply recommend a bit of creative ducting or an upgraded radiator as a permanent fix to this "problem". JUST REMEMBER to add an oil cooler ALSO. And the reason it was never a "problem" for me was because I understand the limitations of the antique redtop engines having owned several of them in the past and I knew that I could never bring myself to steady cruise at 3500+rpm on the highway, therefore, an upgraded radiator was unnecessary.
Ive done fifty or more swaps, most of them documented, and at least 10 redtop swaps and this was the cleanest swap Ive ever seen. You cant ask for anything more than all oem equipment and every possible nut and bolt in the right place with the right torque specification. Thats exactly what he is driving. This is not a "build" this is an OEM engine with full oem equipment and around 50k miles tops.
"So kingtal0n, are you saying that a stock 180sx from Japan from 1990 if brought to Florida, and run on an 80*F day, at 80MPH+ and 3500rpm+ for extended periods of time some of which is spent in boost will probably get hot and move the temp gauge up?"
Kingtal0n: yes thats exactly what I am saying. And until I see someone with a 180sx here in Florida that can prove me wrong you just wont know. Sorry if I seem heated. No it doesnt get hot at night and no it doesnt get hot on a cold day either. And disconnecting the turbine is a GREAT way to preserve the life of the turbocharger AND the life of the engine oil on these redtop engines.
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