Quote:
Originally Posted by codyace
Age of a waterpump isn't a 100% definitive reason for poor working ability. Sure the bearings can go bad, but it's not like it's 'not going to work' as well as a new one, this side of the impellars rotting or rusting way, which is highly unlikely.
HG, a bad radiator cap, or a fan that isn't working properly.
I think it's less a mechanical issue, and more electronically related like you've posted. Get the gauges on their own system, and use proper relays/fuse/gauge of wire to keep them seperate.
Having the E fans come on at 180 is a much better idea too, have them shut off at the same time.
Also, where is your sender for coolant temp located?
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Haltech is using factory temp sender on lower neck.
I've been driving the car for a few days with no problem. Even with the gauge jumping 10-15 degree problem I don't see the temp going over 205 ( 195 in reality at stop traffic) when I'm cruising and fans are off I seen temps below 180.
I def going to run a separate wiring/relays for gauges. They might be hooked up to the radio fuse wich I know it sucks)