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Old 10-28-2013, 09:13 PM   #21
R33E8
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: NJ
Age: 31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zurud View Post
The thing is nobody sell good crimp connector like oem. They only sell crimp butt connector that get loose all the time for connecting and extending wires.
Here you go sir!

19203-0384 - MOLEX - BUTT SPLICE, 22-18AWG, CRIMP | Newark

Something similar to that is what you should look for.. 100 crimps for just under $7 +shipping..

Regarding the crimp tool needed, look for something like this:



The second jaws from the left is the style you need for these uninsulated crimps. Once you have the wires crimped, shrink a piece of heatshrink over the splice and you are done!

Here is a crimp tool for $20:Amazon.com: S&G Tool Aid 18900 Professional Ratcheting Terminal Crimper: Automotive

Although this specific one comes with dies for insulated crimps, you can easily buy the dies for un-insulated crimps or just buy a ratcheting crimper that comes with it.
Here is a die that should fit:
Paladin Tools 2031 CrimpALL 1300/8000 Series Die For Non-Insulated Terminals And Lugs - Amazon.com


If you want to use insulated crimp splices, I would recommend this style over the ones you find at walmart:
320570 - TE CONNECTIVITY / AMP - TERMINAL, BUTT SPLICE, YELLOW | Newark

If you look closely, you will see that each end seems to have 2 parts. The entrance part is the insulation crimp to clamp onto the insulation as support and strain relief, while the part closer to the center is for the conductor.. If you check out the spec sheet on TE's website, you can also see the internal construction. Unlike the cheap walmart crimps, these TE crimps have ridges to help clamp onto the conductors to reduce the chance of them pulling out.. The only thing I have against these style of crimps is how bulky the harness becomes once you start using a lot of them.. And I don't trust them as much as the un-insulated crimps I posted earlier.. To crimp these, you'll need to use the crimps similar in style to the first ones from the left in the picture of the crimp tool above. There are a few different common styles of them and I can explain if you truly want to know the difference.

If you want to be a boss and use some really awesome crimps, you can check out these as well. M81824/1-1 - TE CONNECTIVITY / RAYCHEM - TERMINAL, BUTT SPLICE, CRIMP, | Newark

These combine the strength (in my opinion) of the uninsulated crimp + the sealing capability typically found in solder sleeves. If you check out the data sheet you'll see that it actually comes with an uninsulated crimp plus the piece of heatshrink shown in the thumbnail. You use a normal uninsulated crimp tool to crimp it then slide the included heatshrink over the crimp and recover it. The two bands in the heatshrink are actually thermoplastic sealing rings. Once you apply heat, they melt and form around the wires to make a complete immersion proof seal. They are awesome for keeping things isolated if your wires will be submerged or exposed to the elements. You can accomplish similar results by using dual walled/adhesive lined heatshrink(aka M23053/4 spec heatshrink IIRC..), but it won't be clear...
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