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The last 10% is caused by lowering, and there is no cheap cure.
These rear ends are made to toe in dynamically on compression and droop.
By lowering the car say 1", it means the car will toe OUT on droop for say 1/2" of suspension travel, and only then will toe in. Drop the car 3", and the suspension will never toe in on droop (which ricers dont care as they just dont have suspension travel because they fit rock hard springs)
It means the lower you go, the crappiest it will drive. BTW, what do you think your suspension does when braking ? Yup, you guessed it. Goes on droop.
You could counter that by adding more static toe in. But then there is tyre wear, and the car might be twitchy on acceleration and not flat roads.
There are only 2 solutions :
1/relocate toe arm pickup point on the knuckle or
2/relocate toe arm pickup on subframe.
Neither is easy.
There IS one known and working solution. Stock suspension height and suspension arm angles. If you want a lowered car that fit, you need sot keep suspension arm angles unchanged, so if you fit 2inch shorter coilovers, raise you subframe as much, basically. See the "roll center correction" thread for more info.
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