Quote:
Originally Posted by S14rebuild
the waxstat is a very primative unreliable fast idle mechanism.
when the coolants cold, the wax shrinks and the plunger is resting low. this allows the sprung loaded fast idle arm to push against the throttle mechanism and keeping it slightly open, hence "fast idles" at 1400rpm during cold starts
once the engine & coolant is at 82C, the wax expands to move the plunger up against the sprung fast idle arm. this retracts the fast idle arm away from the throttle mechanism and allows the throttle to fully shut therefore warm idles at 750rpm.
over the years of heat cycle, the wax tends to stiffen up so it doesn't expand as much or at all even when the engine is fully warm, so the mechanism remains stuck in "fast idle" mode.
so the first symptom of a seized waxstat from date of manufacture is remaining stuck in fast idle when engines warmed up.
I say "from date of manufacture" cos when it seizes, most ppl take it to a garage and would mostly just tighten the "idle bleed valve" to lower the warm idle speed as a bandage, even though the throttle is still propped open by the fast idle mechanism.
another thing is the IACV at the front of the TB is an electronic backup of the mechanical fast idle mechanism.
the solution is to disable & discard the old waxstat mechanism from the throttle, clean and check the IACV so its functioning 100% and then readjust the idle bleed screw till it warm idles at 750rpm.
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Hey, don't mean to steal the tread but I recently developed a very similar problem after replacing all the lines in my intake manifold as well as collector and manifold gaskets. The car started right up and I can't hear any vacuum leaks anymore and she runs well under boost again.
I didn't open up the wax element or even touch the IACV mechanism that sits on top of the log part of the intake. a caveat to my idle problem is that the car is rish at idle now as well. I'll have baby backfires at idle. The timing was set months ago following instructions in the FSM, the dots on the CAS. Car currently idles at 1500 but drives well. I got a little pb blaster on the paper gasket that stuck out from below the idle set screw maybe that? s13 sr20det, I have all the lines and didn't delete anything. used to idle maybe 50 or 100 rpm high but was always a nice strong idle not twice what it should be lol.
any ideas? thank you