Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
If you
Compression test
leak down test
swap injectors, check O-rings & fuel pressure
pressure test
swap ecu
pressure test
swap the maf
pressure test
check fuel pressure while engine is running & not running
install brand new copper NGK plugs heat range 7 BKR7ES iirc
check the battery grounds, engine ground cable, add a ground to the engine->chassis
Check the coil pack ground on the back of the engine
changed the cts
unplugged the O2
unplug the tps
These engines are among the simplest to diagnose in the world.
Fueling goes:
maf -> ecu -> injectors
Either you have the wrong maf (has it ever run properly in the past with that maf?)
Or the timing was set incorrectly (common mistake)
Or it has an obscure wiring issue, perhaps a bad cas or some bad cas wiring.
You need a wideband to see what is going on with the fueling
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Have done everything above other than fuel pressure and compression test which will be the next things I do
Car has the correct maf, maf also gets correct voltage and reads correct voltage at idle and rises with airflow
Valve cover was pulled to verify correct CAS installation and was timed to 15°
Had a wideband temporarily installed and read 10:1 all the time which is as rich as the gauge could read
Car was purchased as a project and I’ve been fixing things wrong with it done by the PO, it was barely running when I got it and I at least have got it to run better but still nowhere near 100%