View Single Post
Old 03-28-2014, 05:33 PM   #3
Kingtal0n
Post Whore!
 
Kingtal0n's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: South Florida
Age: 38
Posts: 4,649
Trader Rating: (17)
Kingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond reputeKingtal0n has a reputation beyond repute
Send a message via AIM to Kingtal0n
There is a trigger wire in the F3 plug that needs to be tied or moved to another pin IIRC. Its been years but I think it might be black/pink and yellow/black. I have a thread on FA about this, in a 95' doing an S13 sr20det swap, I have a pinout diagram up

edit:

found this, which is something jerry wrote, along with another guy, anyways it might help


Quote:
Jerry:
"on the f3 conector (big white plug under dashboard near passenger foot well , you know the one you have to splice into to make your engine swap work) you need to splice together the following cables pin 16 yellow/ black to pin 43 or 46 (cant remeber now im at work) black/pink. and what do you know voila it works, push the a/c button a/c turns on, pust it again it turns off. 2 friggin wires, it was staring me in the face for like a week before i tried it , it seemed to easy, thats it just sauder those two wires togerther and ti will work like stock.

the only issure is wiring it into the idle air control valve so the rpms wont drop as much but i dont really think that is an issure as i have not had any problems with it yet its not to bad but i already pretty much got that figured out and iwill be doing it at some point later this week i will post it then. hope this helps some of you people sweating in your car, cuz ill tell you here in miami i is hot as biatch"

next guy:
the issue he was having sounded very very similar to mine, i was excited i thought i had found the solution. i printed the f3 pinout on 240 chassis side and sr engine harness side and ran downstairs only to find that pin #16 conveniently isn't on either side of the f3 plugs on my car. i found pin #43 with ease, the black/pink triple pressure switch just like everyone says, that was right on cue. i looked and looked and looked and all the information i found everywhere was cut #16 and #43 and solder them on the chassis side. so i figured i'd be a do-it-yourselfer and look through ye ole trusty FSM. based on my best judgement after scoping the diagram for a good hour i came to the conclusion that pin #46 was the 97-98s new a/c switch pin. it seems like it is perfectly based on the fsm wiring diagram but i could be way wrong i'm not THAT good with reading those diagrams. so i cut them both and loop them together, turn the key to ON and press the ac button, nothing happens. i started the car just in case some of my power distribution was whacky, and pressing ac button did nothing again. went back up to the front of the car with pin #43 and 46 still soldered together and sure enough grounding out the triple pressure switch and relay both still activated the clutch on the compressor.
__________________
5.3/4l80e/turbo 240sx playthrough:
https://tinyurl.com/turbo240
Kingtal0n is offline   Reply With Quote