Quote:
Originally Posted by racepar1
Ok, time for the Driftworks criticism...
It seems that what they did was simply move the hub mounting points up somewhere around 1.5"-2". All the other suspension mounting dimensions look to be exactly the same as stock, with the notable exception of the front tie rod mounting points. In the rear that is probably pretty close to ideal as long as your coilovers have enough adjustment to compensate. In the front though I think that may cause problems. Remember that in the front the limiting suspension travel factor is the wheelwell, not the suspension itself (ESPECIALLY on s-13's). With these knuckles your front suspension has between 1.5"-2" or so MORE bump travel at the SAME ride heighth. If you DON'T have 1.5"-2" MORE wheelwell clearence, you are likely in trouble.
mmdb, I would suggest that you check your wheelwell clearence if you haven't already. I am interested to find out how your front tire clearence is with these.
To check wheelwell clearence (for those who don't know) you simply remove the springs from one front and one rear coilover. Do not mess with any of the adjustment perches, just take the upper mount top nuts off. I wouldn't bother with the rear unless you have knuckles like these ones though. Re-assemble and install the coilovers without the springs on the car and install the wheels. Compress the suspension with a jack untill the car is resting on the bumpstops and check clearence. You SHOULD have just a little room to spare, like 1/8" or so at least but not more then maybe 1/4". Front bump travel is ridiculously limited so you've gotta be pretty close. knuckles.
Remember guys that real suspension "tuning" is all about the complete package. Sure you can throw coilovers and basic adjustable arms at the car without much thought, but to REALLY correct the geometry and maximise travel every single part and piece has to be DESIGNED to work with EACHOTHER. Just because a part works awesome for someone else doesn't necessarily mean that it will work for you. This statement is not directed towards anyone specifically, it is just a general statement that everyone needs to REALLY hear.
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I disagree.
I've said it about 20 times here, but I'll say it again, the rear roll center does NOT drop as quickly as the front when lowering the car. Raising the rear roll center up to almost stock height when you've lowered the rear CG a few inches is going to create an UNFAVORABLE roll axis inclination in that it crosses through your CG axis. This causes all sorts of undesirable things to happen with your suspension.
I still have no clue why people think going to stock geometry is the right thing to do when you've now lowered your CG significantly. These two things work together, why in the world would you want to keep one the same and change the other one significantly?