Quote:
Originally Posted by 93kouking
Ok you arrogant know it all, apologies for not being the end all of knowledge and mechanical experience.. I'm just trying to get the car running right. And I've checked the o2, resistance of each injector was 11.5 ohms, there are no vac leaks, my bov is vented,so i plan on recirculating, there are 0 exhaust leaks, Maf and tps are fine... So unless you can pinpoint the issue after having watched the video and read the thread then I'd love to hear your input, that being said the only other logical thing being that other things have checked out would be to get a tune.. Not just with an safc, but a rom tune which I'll be doing as well, but I don't need you to be being rude about it when I'm having an issue with the engine.. The help you have provided previously has been much appreciated and your continuous help throughout this diagnostic will also be appreciated.. With my fuel filter being a bit old I'm gunna try a new z32 filter this week and see if that helps, if it doesn't even help a little bit I don't know what else to check.. Today I disconnected the o2 at idle and it went straight rich, plugged it back in and went right back to the 16's, disconnected Maf and it ran terrible.. Any other ideas?
|
arrogant, confident, call it what ever you want but know it all is not it. If I dont have a good hunch about something I keep my mouth shut. You still havent dont the suggestions. Your ohming stuff out and I may have not been clear enough but you would be surprised how many times that does not work. We have a known bad ignitor with the cover off that you can see is bad that "checks" just fine per the fsm....
Tps many times will check just fine by the fsm because the fsm is not critical enough and does not take into consideration that the ecu can be reset under the base idle adjustment (tune or no tune) allowing it to look for a different voltage closed. Checking at closed throttle and full throttle is not enough. Linear voltage increase is necessary with the tps, and "dead spots" can lead to your very problem.
Your wideband does look very "suspect". I cannot believe aem continues to put out such a terrible product as critical as a wideband and are arrogant enough to somehow think they need to calibration, when they use the same sensor as 90% of the other wideband manufacturers that do require calibration.
If your wideband does read wrong, a tune is probably all you need. And there is no reason for a safc if you have a good rom tune.
recirculating your bov has nothing do do with this, it is most likely to cause rich problems if your not, not lean.
Anyways, You dont have to listen to me, that is your choice. And it is my choice to not help when I dont think people are willing to listen.
Good luck
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
Here are some possibilities for you to consider:
1. the wideband is wrong. MAYBE. Consider for a minute- if it IS wrong, then your engine may have NO PROBLEMS currently and where located.
2. The wideband is right, and something else is wrong. WHAT ELSE?
there are many possible causes for this situation, such as exhaust leak / improper sensor [location/environment]
So I feel the proper course here is to verify the wideband FIRST. Dont do ANYTHING dont touch ANYTHING do not exchange ANYTHING before you make sure the wideband is reading right.
here is how I would start (from the cheapest quickest solution as always do the cheapest, easy most simple things first)
Buy a narrowband sensor. Ensure there are no exhaust leaks. Put your hand everywhere when the engine is cold feeling for puffs of air-
Run the narrowband sensor and see what the wideband says. If the narrowband is working, and the ECU is completely OEM, you should be seeing it swing around 14.7:1 air fuel ratio, during the times while yours is reading 16.5 right NOW.
Here are the possibilities, and the solutions for each now (the next step)
a. You install a new narrowband and the wideband reads 14.7 at idle/cruise. Everything is fixed.
b. You install a new narrowband and the wideband STILL reads in the 16's. Proceed with:
Install ANOTHER wideband sensor. This is weighed against the probability you have access to one. The AEM requires or advertises that "no calibration is necessary" for their units. You need to verify that the AEM is reading BAD, because the only other explanation for what you are seeing is an issue with actual fueling. Which means your engines life is in mortal danger. Please understand that if that wideband is RIGHT and doing its job you may need to fix an actual fuel problem which can extend from the tips of the fuel injectors to the ECU itself, all of which is MORE costly and time consuming that just swapping a wideband to verify the issue is actually fuel related.
|
woa, Its note-worthy that we agree on something
