09-20-2011, 01:11 PM
|
#3145
|
|
Zilvia Junkie
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SLC, UT
Age: 38
Posts: 461
|
Not much I guess..
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerbike
I did this a few weeks ago.
It seems to work great. I cooled it in a bucket of sand, but I heard some guys still break them. I made another pair with the spindles I took off the car. I'm definitely installing them on my second car, and making a third pair for when they do break.
I don't use rack spacers with these, but I still have the factory stops on the control arms.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikerbike
I found out some interesting stuff this week.
Since I modified my knuckles, I stopped using MAX rack spacers, since my outer tie rod hit the control arm before the rack bottomed out. But, in the quest for a flatter contact patch, I was reducing caster via tension rod adjustment.
As the wheel moved back in the well, it gained angle as a trailing wheel. I liked that a lot, less ackerman without losing leading wheel angle. My 17x9 +9 was hitting the tension rod/sway bar hard.
But, as the leading wheel, the rack started bottoming out before the tie rod hit the control arm. I installed the MAX rack spacers again, and goofed around with it for a few hours to find a happy medium.

That's with the front of the wheel about 1/4" away from the sway bar.
|
That's about it. But I can see that the line from the inner tie rod end to the outer tie rod end might go right through the lower ball joint pivot. It's close.
|
|
|