Quote:
Originally Posted by Z U L8R
i'm totally not saying you're dumb if you get cams on a boosted motor.
as far as your set up, you're pushing that 28/71 to what it can do, in it's happy range of ~20 psi
so if you wanted a little more power on top of what it already did, without messing with your set up, than yeah, cams are warranted.
but if you wanted to make 400 or 450hp
i'd say, put back in the stock cams, with a gt30 or another turbo that'll get you there, and crank it up, and it would do it. then if you wanted to tap that set up out, THEEEN get the cams, like you did.
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Certainly not running cams will get you power that you want, but always at the expense of more boost. This IMO is not a 'condusive' setup, as now you're simply introducing an un needed amount of heat into the combustion procee, thus requiring very limited timing to be introduced, and more race gas oriented fuel to fend of detention. Is it safer to run more boost, with more fuel with less timing? Usually yes, but there is a point where it becomes to much, and hurts power. I'd rather run 15 psi with some timing, than 20 psi without any.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z U L8R
you also didn't go stupid crazy and get 272's which is good.
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True, and I think this is where you may 'hate' on 'turbo cams'. I too hate cams that are 'marketed for for turbo'. THis applies to Honda's, LSx, Modular, everything! Turbo cams usually offer very low (close to zero) seperation between the lobnes (which is good) but often run crappy lifts with poor duration (either to little or to much)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z U L8R
i just want ppl just getting their sr or rb or whatever swap done, to know that the first mod they need to run out and get is a better turbo, the fuel system and tuning to manage it, and a good electronic boost controller, instead of the FIRST thing they always get, which is cams. lol
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I certainly agree with this, but at the same time, if the motor is apart (assuming most people tear them down for inspection) there is no better time to put cams in, as it's easily accessible.
To me, even if it was N/A, throwing a set of persay Jim Wolf S3's or s4's in, will make better overall power and torque, and then even moreso with FI
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z U L8R
lose spool down low to gain power up top towards the end. sometimes it has it's place, most of the time though what people are really wanting, they'd get from more boost/bigger turbo not more cam.
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Very true. There is certainly somethign to be said about running a larger turbo at less boost, than a smaller one at more. BUT then there are nut jobs like me, who are content with the t2 spool time, but want a tad more power. I honestly can say, a 30r car is boring to me in street trim. Very fun for street racing, and would be awesome with a solid valvetrain that could use the RPM's, but for a car that has a 7800 rev limit, it's just not worth the 4500/5000 rpm full spool for me (and I'm a road race guy)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Z U L8R
i hate cams....unless in a chevy LS motor with some nitrous  ....but if i were to boost the LS motor...i dunno i might do a cam just so it doesn't make 9million foot lb of torque at 3,000 rpm hahhaa. that'd be where i would WANT it to make less power so soon and more power up top lol. |
One of my best friends has a WS6 with a built 6.0. 250 single stage for now, looking for a dual setup her soon. Talk about fun
But even here, cam selection for a 3500 lb vs 2600 lbc car are also much different. LSx in 240 can run a much more wild cam with the tiny car
Dave =][/QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_eh
so should i just leave stock cams on my motor if i have a big turbo?  or are you saying not to purchase cams with the assumption it adds more power?
fwiw my build consists of a 35r 1.06 exhaust housing and 264/272 hks step twos |
You definatly should get cams for your setup, but I would not be going with that staggared setup. SR20's simply don't like staggered cams - there is obviously a reason for this that I don't know how to explain (i'm no engineer lol) but there is some physical reason why.
35r you want 264 at the minimum, 272 probably best...and a nice free flowing exhaust. No reason to sacrifice 50 hp on the big end of the power band for 20 ft lbs at the low end where your turbo isn't even making power.