06-14-2013, 08:17 PM
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#27
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Zilvia Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Flowery Branch
Age: 32
Posts: 175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kingtal0n
Sorry if I seem edgey, I had been acused of "beating around the bush" when it comes to answers, writing long drawn out paragraphs instead of getting right to the point. So to save time and space, I just try to write the point and only explain when necessary and harshness seems to speed things up. If you are asking advice from somebody on the internet, you should not always believe what they write unless you have a good damn reason to and have done your own research to compare answers. What is relevant is this. You own a limited edition priceless nearly antique engine. There will never be more factory assembled SR20DET engines than there are today. The days of combustion engines are dying down, everybody's already figured out how to make 5000 horsepower and they are on to something new. We are catching the last drips of the technology as it peaks and disappears, those of us driving vehicles in the $4,000-$18,000 range have a particular stage to act out their lives.
What I see in the future of your engine is not good. I've expressed the reason, Irreversible damage is possible if you are standing on the fuel cut with stock injectors and a maxed compressor. One less SR20 in circulation.
You can drive it 15,000 miles like that before it spits the turbine or eats the block. Or, you can turn it down to 12psi, revert the engine back to factory (take off all the junk) and drive it for 100,000+ miles with low maintenance.
If more power is your goal, do it right.
Garret GT2871r .64
740 CC Tomei injectors
OEM exhaust manifold Extrude honed
Power FC L-jetro + Z32 maf
JWT S3 camshafts, stock head
pump gas 7,000rpm
This is the highest amount of power I would recommend for an OEM bottom end SR20DET engine that you expect to drive for 150,000 miles with nothing but oil changes. And it maintains the factory turbo location. Top mounts are a great investment but generally cost more and require more fabrication skill and experience. Using the oem manifold reduces the installation to mostly FSM proceedure and is great practice for a novice high performance mechanic/enthusiast.
If you finish that and want more power, 2jz is often (but not always) the next viable route.
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Hey man I appreciate your advise. I've got the boost now set right to 15psi max. I was trying to see if it'd still boost/fuel cut and thank god it hasn't happened again. I daily drive my car and rarely drive it hard so I think 15psi is ok and going to last me a long time. I'm usually in vacuum 99 percent of the time anyways haha. If it happens again I'm going to check all the voltage and make sure the fuel pump is getting enough and go from there. Thanks for your advice and everyone else who helped me out!
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