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Definitely start with a good set of tires! Since you mentioned dual duty use, and if you don't want to purchase a second set of rims/tires for track use, stick around 240-320 UTQG with a AA-A rating tire. Any lower and you trade traction for treadlife and the exact opposite if you go higher.
For brakes, since you mentioned dual duty use; I would go straight to a caliper and rotor upgrade unless you are limited by rules such as in autocrossing (sts class). Where your only option is to upgrades pads, lines and fluid. Yes, you can improve on the stock system. But with hard driving (track use) you will be overheating the system in no time, due to the small rotor diameter.
Regarding shocks, springs and coilovers. It really boils down to budget and the features you want. As far as recommending a company to buy from, I will tell you this, stick with the big name companies / manufacturers. There is a reason they are still around after several years.
I know some of you are ready to flame me on this, but regardless of origin USA, Germany, Japan, China; All manufacturers have had their issues regarding consistency, reliability, quality, etc. I have used the following companies on my own cars Bilstein, Koni, KYB, Tokico, TEIN, KW, JIC and they all fit a certain need. Now does it match your needs is the question...
Things to consider when purchasing a kit: What features do you need / want. Are they rebuildable? Are they local? How is the customer service? Mono-tube vs. Twin tube. Can they be revalved? Can you make stroke changes? Are they short stroke vs stock stroke?
Getting to bushings and bearings, I would STAY AWAY from heim joints and spherical bearings on anything other than a TRACK ONLY VEHICLE. The reason being is that even the best sphericals and heim, with teflon injection only last about 1500 miles. Once they wear you will have noise/clunking issues; not to mention inconsistent handling if extremely worn out.
Now polyurethane, delrin and other materials are great for street cars because they increase response and flex less than stock rubber bushings. However they have been known to squeak if not properly lubed. They can also bind, although much of this can be corrected with a little work by reaming holes and using a lathe to ensure trueness. Another option would be the Nismo bushings which are a harder durometer rubber.
For me, I would want 4 piston calipers, 13 inch rotors(maybe slotted, but I prefer full face), a double adjustable mono-tube coilover, and poly or delrin bushings all around with bumpsteer and roll center correction; not to mention camber, caster and toe adjustments. But this is becasue I have participated in autocrossing, drifting and road racing events for the past 10 years; not to mention I drive to the events and still enjoy driving on the street.
I will forever be a tuner!!! For me it's not a fad or phase. I am one of the fortune few that is able to combine my hobby with my work and although it's been tough, I don't regret my choice.
Hope this helps...
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