Quote:
Originally Posted by Corbic
My recommendations -
Buy a legit ECUand new Wire Harness and injectors.
Wiring Specialties has harnesses that will support Link G4+, Haltech and ECUMasters. Do not use some garbage AEM, Empathy, Apexi crap from the 90's.
Buy Top-Feed ID1050X Injectors (Injector Dynamics). Modern injectors destroy those garbage side-feeds in terms of responsiveness and tune-ability.
With this, you can now run a GM E85 Flex Fuel sensor, Wide-Band, MAP and ECU Boost-Controller (AEM).
You'll have a reliable, consistent and accurate platform to tune off of and won't have issues with injector balance, detonation, stupid MAF's, boost control, etc. You'll have full diagnostics to see what's going on.
That's going to set you back $4k
Injectors $600
Harness $750
ECU $1,300
MAP, Wide-Band, E85 Sensor, Pump, fuel line, top rail, etc - $1,000
So once that's out of the way, how much money do you have?
With SR's, Cams seem almost more important then the turbo. I wouldn't waste my time running the S14 turbo since the cermic wheel may grenade and take out you're whole engine. Better off to run a Shanghi Shooter for $200 if you need to save for a turbo. At least then you'll just risk blowing an oil seal.
By now, it's like... what's another $1000 to make sure you don't crack a ring land or snap a rod bolt?
Certainly run ARP head-studs, not only are they stronger, but they are easier to torque. Don't run a MLS gasket unless you have the head and block decked. You need a perfect surface to seal with MLS.
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never thought i would agree with corbic but most of this is good advice.
but i would not recommend opening the engine just to do head studs/gasket. leave the head gasket to be the weak point, so it goes before the bottom end preventing the block from becoming a piece of scrap aluminum. however, the tune and safety cuts that a ecu like haltech offers are gonna be key here.
source: ive been running 370whp (mustang dyno) for 10 years now with a proper tune (haltech all the way) on a 3071 at 18 psi (with stock cams) and the engine has the same compression numbers as when the turbo was first put on the car.