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Originally Posted by 240KA
i've nerded out on engine oils before for a little bit, but still very noob.
poorman, i have a stock pile of T6 and pennzoil synthetics and mobil 1. they might not be the "best", but i feel they do a fairly adequate job of lubricating the engine in a 3k-5k oil change interval for their price. would you agree? if not, what are some of the lower-than-amsoil quality oils that you'd suggest? you said amsoil is at the top, but can u find a compromise in price and OCI with a less expensive oil? i like my SR, but not $15 per quart amounts of love :P hopefully you don't comeback with "gotta pay to play", cuz i find that hard to believe when it comes to oils of today.
edit - yes if you pay more you'll get better quality oils, but i think a "lower quality" like a T6, pennzoil, mobil, will do a good enough job in a 3k-5k OCI condition or in a couple of race events, that most of us would never see the true benefits of a more expensive oil. although, i'm guessing the higher priced amsoil offers some kind of insurance if you lose oil pressure all of a sudden. because of its chemistry and bond, it allows the engine to perhaps run longer with no oil pressure than say a T6 or pennzoil or mobil1.
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If you?re mostly concerned about anti-wear additives, you can buy Redline?s break-in oil additive, which had zddp and phosphorous. You?re then only missing out on things like boron and moly. Honestly those oils will do a adequate job with a little boosting to the additives.
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Originally Posted by TheRealSy90
I will gladly put 2-3 grand in oil changes over years of ownership versus risking burning up rod bearings more quickly.
Amsoil Dominator 15/50 is perfect for sr's in hot climates, and within the oem viscosity recommendation. Hell I ran 15/50 in my daily driven sr through two Idaho winters and it was fine lol.
IMO There's no need for a 0/40 or a 10/40. Also it's not Weight it's Winter.
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You live in a very hot climate. Also the only way to pick the best oil would be monitoring pressure and temp, and having a consistent UOA trend low in wear. Just because ?nothing happened? doesn?t mean it?s the ideal oil. I?ve seen oil temps drop 50* from switching oils. Just adding thicker oil doesn?t always mean better protection either.
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Originally Posted by slider2828
Actually on that note guys!!!! I need a little help.
I have a 3qt accumsump..... I am going to run Rotella T5 as a startup oil to get to about 500 miles......
So obviously I am going to fill that accusump.....
So when I switch to AMS Signature.... how do I get all that oil out??
I guess put 60psi in the accusump, to push the oil and drain it....
Any good ideas on how to drain the oil cooler and lines? or screw it a little mix is alright?
-Ken
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Honestly, I wouldn?t worry about it too much hah.