Quote:
Originally Posted by derass
I would think that with a 0 Ackerman setup, you should be trying to take advantage of the fact that the trailing wheel is not scrubbing at full lock and maximize it's contact patch. I've found that -4* camber is the sweet spot, flat contact patch on the leading tire without being excessive. Combine this with a factory caster setting (5* ?), as I've always found that level of caster to provide good self-steer/centering.
Mind you, I do have some ackerman with my knuckles, so I have not tried to dial out camber and caster, as doing so would increase the trailing tire contact patch and therfore scrub.
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as u add caster u need to add camber or you will begin to use your side wall at or near full lock. this is why there is no for sure settings. taking tire temps and read the tires. the car will tell you what its asking for camber wise. caster is up to you and what you like.
In competition drifting we need our transitions to be as snappy as possible. some drivers like to throw the car around requiring less caster. some like the car to drive its self requiring more caster. specific case being the driver Im crew chief for Joon Maeng. He likes tons of self steer, just let go of the wheel and it transitions on its own. but our friendly competitor Ryan Kado prefers less caster as his driving style is more aggressive and he likes to throw the car around more. if you add SAI into the mix then you get into a whole new world of combos.
zero ackerman causes interesting problems with transition speed and steering feel but that can be fixed somewhat with scrub but the real fix is what wisefab did with adding caster trail. zero Ackerman is desirable for high speed courses. slow speed stuff or really tight stuff likes ackerman. So again there is no perfect all the time setting. for the most part a reduction in ackerman is good for most people.
so don't get to hung up on "settings". its a balance of what the car is asking for and what the driver wants as well.
hope this helps