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So, did some more work to this thing...Found out my MAF was wired up wrong...but it still runs like crap.
Seems it will run okay for about 5-10 minutes or so, then it just progressively gets worse. I've also changed out the coolant temp sensor. I also did the "unplug the maf" test, and there was NO CHANGE in its idle, nor did it cut out at 3k...I'm curious as to if its the tune or something thats making it do that, because I thought that was what happened when your maf didn't work right. So it doesn't go into limp mode in that regard. Unless its under load or something...I tried it while in my garage and it revved up past 5k.
So, it still runs rich, it still starts sputtering/backfiring/bogging after I drive it for a little bit. When its cold, it runs pretty darn good. I took it out and it definately got with it...but then about 8 blocks down the road it started sputtering out again.
So, just a recap, I've done:
Re-wired MAF
Unplugged maf at idle/no load...no response
Changed CTS
Put on a different fuel pressure regulator (mine was bent and crushed)
Reset the timing on the car
The only reason I dont think its the maf, is because I checked voltages on the MAF and it was reading fine. The signal wire was sitting around .2 vdc or so without the motor running, and lightly blew on it and noted the change of around .1 to .15 volts or so. Also, the injectors are at about 90% duty cycle at idle, but when your driving it goes down to about 70-80 percent...
So, any other ideas guys?
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73 240z Resto project
91 s13 hatch - SR swapped, blown up, parting out
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