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Old 08-20-2014, 10:21 PM   #5
LoganDavenport
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Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Tyler, Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wawazat8402 View Post
The ecu doesn't have anything to do with the start circuit other than the orange wire that tells it to use the cranking map.

Also, was this originally an auto shell or manual shell? If it was originally manual trans, you need to bypass the clutch interlock switch not the neutral safety switch. It's a large relay with 2 connectors in the front passenger corner of the engine bay by the neck for the washer bottle.

If that's what you meant and it has already been done, I would start at the start position contact on the ignition switch and chase the signal along the chassis harness until you know longer see voltage. Sometimes these seemingly simple circuits are tedious as he'll to troubleshoot as you are definitely finding out after 18 months.
Thank you so much for your reply. I believe it was a 5spd car, as with my other shell that the motor was previously in. The only thing i bypassed was the thing above the clutch inside the car. When i get home i will try to locate the clutch interlock switch. Will update if it helps, and i suppose i will try to trace it down once again. Although this is getting really frustrating because I've done so at least 3 times. Im sure whatever is wrong is so simply i will want to just die but i am determined to find it.


Also, when i do turn the key, if i have a buddy standing in front of the engine bay you can hear relays in both fuse boxes clicking, is this normal? Once again im sure its something to do with signaling because i have tested and im getting power to the starter with the key on, and when you move to the signal connector (the one that isn't held down by a bolt) it gets power in the on position of the key, but in the start position nothing. And if you run a wire directly from that location to the positive side of the battery, while the key is in the on position the car starts.
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