Quote:
Originally Posted by S13ORLANDO
The problem is as I stated before . The 75 amp fusible link is dead shorted to ground when the 10 amp " ROOM LAMP" FUSE is inserted. I am using a FLUKE METER to the positive side of the fusible link. This is a NEW LOWER HARNESS from FRSPORT. It is installed properly so that the positive LUG on the alternator isn't shorted to the case.
The actual switch may not be the issue at all.I agree,but the short goes to INFINITE OHMS when the hatch is closed. The FUSIBLE LINK shorts to chassis ground with the hatch OPEN.
I don't want to ELIMINATE all of that wonderful wire near the HATCH ROOFLINE. I won't ELIMINATE any of the HATCH WIRING HARNESS either.
I WOULD CERTAINLY BE FOOLISH NOT TO INSPECT A MICRO SWITCH FIRST.
thank You,
Bob
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Have you inspected the wiring in the hatch/trunk area? It is much more likely that you've got a short in the wiring than the switch. Try removing fuses and un-plugging the suspected components, starting with the light. Your issue is nothing common and I can almost guarantee that the cause will be quite obvious once you find it. Honestly I HATE tracking down shorts, shit takes forever. Why don't you temporarily wire-in your own external switch in place of the OE one and see if it changes anything.
The 75a fuse is the main fuse for the alternator, which is why I suggested to try that. I've heard of that causing your problem before.
No worries man, it just seemed like you were rambling on a bit and it made it hard to really understand your problem.