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misnomer · 02-05-2003, 10:06 PM

The RTV that's already on there could be holding it, try tapping it away from the motor a bit with a mallet and "suitable tool." Remember there are bolts going down into the block and back into the head. There are also two pins sticking out from the head to guide it into place, it needs to come out, not off to the side, not down. I was able to pull mine fairly easily by gripping the hole where the distributor was and pulling out, it swung around and came out.

The valve cover has to come off for the upper timing chain cover to come off. MAKE CERTAIN YOU DO NOT REMOVE THE LOWER TIMING CHAIN GUIDES. Those are required. Just remove the guides on the upper chain. I expect the upper chain guides are what you meant, but just trying to be safe :P

As far as timing goes, to start with you need a timing light, and a relatively dark area to work in. Hook up the light to the battery and clip the inductor on the #1 spark plug wire. Start the car, and point the light at the crank pully. You should see a series of marks on the pulley, mostly white, with one red one. If I'm correct, the red is 0, and the whites increment at 5 degrees. (with them being -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20). You determine where you are by the little needle thing that sticks out over the pulley on the drivers side.

To adjust, you losen the two bolts on the distributor and twist the entire housing. When you twist the housing, you will see the marks on the pulley shift position, and you'll notice a change in idle. I set mine to 20 degrees, read somewhere that was default, but advance slowly and listen for pinging (I'm high altitude, so knock isn't so much a problem). Twist the housing slowly until the last mark lines up with the needle.

It's also worth note, when you rev the engine, you should notice the timing advance (the marks will move counterclockwise of the indicator needle).

02-05-2003, 10:06 PM	#6
misnomer Nissanaholic! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Nevada Posts: 2,293 Trader Rating: (0)	The RTV that's already on there could be holding it, try tapping it away from the motor a bit with a mallet and "suitable tool." Remember there are bolts going down into the block and back into the head. There are also two pins sticking out from the head to guide it into place, it needs to come out, not off to the side, not down. I was able to pull mine fairly easily by gripping the hole where the distributor was and pulling out, it swung around and came out. The valve cover has to come off for the upper timing chain cover to come off. MAKE CERTAIN YOU DO NOT REMOVE THE LOWER TIMING CHAIN GUIDES. Those are required. Just remove the guides on the upper chain. I expect the upper chain guides are what you meant, but just trying to be safe :P As far as timing goes, to start with you need a timing light, and a relatively dark area to work in. Hook up the light to the battery and clip the inductor on the #1 spark plug wire. Start the car, and point the light at the crank pully. You should see a series of marks on the pulley, mostly white, with one red one. If I'm correct, the red is 0, and the whites increment at 5 degrees. (with them being -5, 0, 5, 10, 15, and 20). You determine where you are by the little needle thing that sticks out over the pulley on the drivers side. To adjust, you losen the two bolts on the distributor and twist the entire housing. When you twist the housing, you will see the marks on the pulley shift position, and you'll notice a change in idle. I set mine to 20 degrees, read somewhere that was default, but advance slowly and listen for pinging (I'm high altitude, so knock isn't so much a problem). Twist the housing slowly until the last mark lines up with the needle. It's also worth note, when you rev the engine, you should notice the timing advance (the marks will move counterclockwise of the indicator needle). __________________ Rowsdower saves us and saves all the world!