I'm getting tons of PMs on this topic still (to the point of clogging my inbox). So I'm putting the info here for searching. But you all heard it, non-LS-series engines suck and carbs suck so don't ask me any more.
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan
I've swapped a few V8's into a few different cars, and have taken it upon myself to become a subject matter expert since doing my LSx FD3S.
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If you want to handle LS-series questions, make an LS thread and I'll reroute those questions to you.
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan
The SBC (small block Chevy, AKA Gen0/1) is cost effective, but certainly not ideal in any respect. They're almost all iron block and about half have iron heads as well, and unless you're boosting >10psi, iron block sucks. When you factor in partial-throttle response and fuel economy with the ease of GenIII/IV (LSx) wiring, running carbs on your street car becomes a little ridiculous as well. Obviously, I'm not a fan.
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I disagree with "any respect". If all you want is a Chevy V8 and you want to do the least amount of work and spend the least amount of money, crappy Gen0/I is better.
You can bore out an iron block vs. replacing an aluminium block. Plus aluminium has less strength for the same price.
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan
As far as kit companies go, Hinson's in some hot water right now and although their products are generally pretty good, they're backed up. I have nothing but warm fuzzies about Sikky's swap kit, and Daft has some good stuff as well (I think they're cheaper but not as complete). With the multitude of engine mount options, headers is really the thing you want to buy rather than fab yourself, and you can't go wrong with either of those.
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I also recommend buying headers instead of making your own unless you really want to.
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan
That brings me to headers - block huggers to use stock cat and catback? Get serious. You're leaving 30hp+ on the table, after all the work to get a v8 in your car? Get some legit longtubes for a few hundred bucks and do true duals with an X-pipe (street) or H-pipe (race).
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Stock catback vs. open downpipe = 60 bhp loss. 2.5" catback vs. open downpipe = 15 bhp loss. I have the Dynapack comparisons.
Also your recommended exhaust is not legal for street cars in my state. The cost for fabricating a true dual exhaust is also higher than reusing any catback that fits a stock car.
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan
The real 'sweet spot' (budget-wise) in my opinion is to find a LM7 (GenIII 5.3L Aluminum block out of Silverado 1500's) engine with relatively low miles (50k or less is common) with harness, PCM (that's powertrain control module, GM-speak for ECU), and accessories for less than $1000 and slap a T5 or T56 on it. 300hp stock, high revving, FUN FUN FUN, and cheap.
If you've got a few grand more to spend, you get a 2001+ LS1 drop-out from a Camaro or Firebird. They've got the best OEM header/cat config for trying to pass smog, no EGR, and the LS6 intake manifold stock.
If you've got somewhere around $10k, a forged 402ci shortblock using a brand new GenIV block and 4" bore x 4" stroke (that's block + rotating and reciprocating assembly, no heads and no trans) runs about $4k, slap some 243 heads (C5 Z06 and all LS2's) on there for $500 or some L92 heads (LQ9 and LS3) for $1k or so with a cam/pushrods/springs/retainers and pick up an accessory kit and T56 for 500+rwhp all day.
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That's all fine suggestions.
Also keep in mind that I set mine up for autocross and short tracks. The engine puts out 400 ft-lbs at 1,000 RPM (320 at the wheels) and has tall 2nd gear ratio. For my application, I don't have enough time to rev high before I'm backing off the throttle.
If you want to talk throttle response, I've played with mine enough to where the throttle response is better than a stock PCM. You can definitely do better if you run your own maps, but compared with a stock LS-series PCM the throttle response is not as good.
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Originally Posted by GSXRJJordan
I'll admit that I play in the higher-end V8 builds more often than the budget stuff, but I'll be helping a few Pro-Am guys reach their V8 goals on some tight budgets this year, and of course I do all the electronics.
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I don't put anybody down. I just give the people the info they want. They have to make the decision themselves.