Quote:
Originally Posted by anthony_240
When you bled the system, did you have the car running and heater on at full blast?
Did you let the air come out of the nipple on top of the intake manifold?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zuke
I fill the funnel up and bleed the heater core as good as I can then put the hose back on that. I crack the bleeder valve on the IM until bubbles go away and it's flowing straight coolant , close the bleeder and squeeze both rad hoses, repeat cracking the bleeder until no more air bubbles form.
I then start my car, have my heater on and blowing, crack the bleeder again, squeeze the hoses and repeat until I can hear no more air in the system and the bleeder is flowing straight coolant. Sometimes i'll turn the car off after it warms up, let it settle and continue bleeding with the air bubbles that have accumulated. Also, yes the front of the car is elevated during this process.
I feel like I'm pretty thorough about the bleeding procedure.
After I've been driving and it starts to overheat, my whole upper rad hose will be empty with coolant and full of air. The level of coolant gets below the top of the radiator fins.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by KJR50
Drive up onto a pair of oil change ramps i.e. "rhino ramps" or "race ramps". The idea is to raise the front end, leaving the rad fill opening at the highest point to allow all the air to escape. YMMV...worth a try.
|
You guys are all saying the same thing, which are good points, but you have to understand even a shotty bleed on the system won't give results like what he's encountering.
You've got an underlying problem going on somewhere.
You might have like some sort of Venturi effect (may be wrong context) where air is being drawn in thru a hole rather than water being pushed out of it, in your heater core.