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Old 09-26-2011, 09:59 PM   #14
Beejis60
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Join Date: Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittin On Smoke View Post
Sleeving any ls motor isn't really a good idea since the block is molded around these sleeves, so unless it is built to stock holding good power for a long time is not in the future.. Beat bet is buying an lsx long block from gm since it uses an iron block the power out put is endless.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittin On Smoke View Post
If the block needs to be sleeved good chances the block is shot.
The #6 cyl wall was scratched from the dropped valve.

And perhaps you didn't read what I posted... it would be Dan Benson doing the sleeving. Not Bob of Dave's Garage that's down the street from you nor your ex-girlfriend's uncle's dog sitter that read about sleeving blocks 10 years ago, but Dan mother effing Benson. He was sleeving LS motors successfully, including LS7's, while you were finger banging Susie in the back seat of your parents car.

Quote:
Originally Posted by paintkilz View Post
i used to want to go LSx but $2k for a used T56 is toooooo much. totally offsets the build being able to pull higher numbers for less than a sr/rb/ka/etc.
Never saw a t56 for sale for more than $1500 unless it was rebuilt with all new parts and shit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by usmctankmech View Post
When it comes to the block all ls series engines are the same. The only difference between an ls7 and a regular ls2 is the bore and stroke and and the fact that it has a dry sump oiling system, when you break it down to basics.
No, the cyl walls and spacing are quite a bit thinner in the LS7, and the cast is different. Also, the material of the sleeves are different between the two, just to name a few differences.
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