Quote:
Originally Posted by blkvrtswp
I asked my audio guy and he said, and I am quoting "No one serious in any audio competition would EVER use that for a ground - what does that tell you?" Sorry, I am listening to his 25 years in auto electronics experience over yours.
Anything bolted to the frame (like my audio is now) is not relying on spot welds. Over and out.
|
Easy there, killer. First of all, I'm not planning on ever getting into audio competitions. Second of all, anywhere on a 240 you can think of is only held together with spot welds (which is why serious racers go back thru and add stitch welds to the entire structure)... Third- I have a degree in Avionics Systems technology, an FCC certification & 20+yrs of aircraft electronics systems maintenance under my belt; so I am not [completely] talking out of my ass. Even so, I strongly encourage you to listen to those whose experience you know & trust vs. a bunch of faceless Joe Schmos like us on a forum=)
Now, with that said: What I personally got from your guy's quote is that he probably (and very rightly so) knows more often than not that the spare tire bay in 20yr old cars is usually in pretty sad shape... or the underbody below it is- in which case, the spot welds there will vibrate loose when subjected to a billion watts of BOOM BOOM BOOM from a competition stereo setup. Most of us will never have competition stereo systems installed; and therefore would never really need to consider this when choosing a place to ground the battery (or our non-competition amps lol).
My only concern was 0.2ohms being good enough for a ground... but this turned out to be a fun discussion... and thanks to y'all I am convinced to go ahead and add a CB to the system.
Thanks again everyone
Mike