Quote:
Originally Posted by Future240
I was thinking of going with CP pistosn and Manley rods with an 8:5:1 compression. Or just CP pistons and stock rods. I would not be the one building it. A shop called Night Owl Performance would be doing the build.
Turbo choice at first would be the stock S14 turbo on 555cc injectors. Later on I would upgrade to a GTX2871R .64 A/R.
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My recommendations -
Buy a legit
ECUand new
Wire Harness and
injectors.
Wiring Specialties has harnesses that will support Link G4+, Haltech and ECUMasters. Do not use some garbage AEM, Empathy, Apexi crap from the 90's.
Buy Top-Feed ID1050X Injectors (Injector Dynamics). Modern injectors destroy those garbage side-feeds in terms of responsiveness and tune-ability.
With this, you can now run a GM E85 Flex Fuel sensor, Wide-Band, MAP and ECU Boost-Controller (AEM).
You'll have a reliable, consistent and accurate platform to tune off of and won't have issues with injector balance, detonation, stupid MAF's, boost control, etc. You'll have full diagnostics to see what's going on.
That's going to set you back $4k
Injectors $600
Harness $750
ECU $1,300
MAP, Wide-Band, E85 Sensor, Pump, fuel line, top rail, etc - $1,000
So once that's out of the way, how much money do you have?
With SR's, Cams seem almost more important then the turbo. I wouldn't waste my time running the S14 turbo since the cermic wheel may grenade and take out you're whole engine. Better off to run a Shanghi Shooter for $200 if you need to save for a turbo. At least then you'll just risk blowing an oil seal.
By now, it's like... what's another $1000 to make sure you don't crack a ring land or snap a rod bolt?
Certainly run ARP head-studs, not only are they stronger, but they are easier to torque. Don't run a MLS gasket unless you have the head and block decked. You need a perfect surface to seal with MLS.