Kingtal0n

It isn't experience. It's engineering. The specification for low silicone alloy forged pistons literally call for increased piston to wall clearance. The machine shops that build an engine for you will ignore the fsm specification for rod bearings of .0014 or whatever and use a .0022" automatically instead. And so forth.

Those settings and common practice contribute to increased wear and tear, reduced life expectancy, there is nothing you or anybody else can do or say to change that.
The fact the pistons need to warm up and expand in the bore further complicates usage in street applications.

I am sure that *I* could build and operate a forged, built engine successfully for hundreds of thousand mileage.
I never said a built engine could not last long in the right hands.
In 2007 I built an sr20det/2jz and it still runs fine w/ CP pistons and Eagle rods... knife edged crankshaft...

Walked the walk. What I learned is that the OEM oil system of an SR20 and 2JZ are NOT Up the challenge of cold-start city with those engines, they require an accumulator pre-oil to protect rod bearing #1 and #2 respectively.
They also require light load, pre-warming engine oil to 180*F-220*F before loading to protect piston skirts and cylinder walls from damage in daily driver applications where the vehicle is being operated within the first 30-50minutes of being started at ambient 80*F temperatures. Colder ambients = more pre-warming.

If you can manage those two big issues it goes a long way to maintaining 'built' engine reliability. But few people understand the requirements or are willing to go that far. There are also a few easily overlooked oil-related issues with the bearing system to deal with, journal chamfer and oil orifice work typically seen in small block Chevrolet engines for example, as well as Enlarging accessible oil passages is necessary.
Another overlooked issue is Measuring oil flow rate throughput instead of merely recording oil pressure, and adjusting flow rate accordingly.
Crankcase pressure management is also absolutely essential- you *must* measure and correct PCV flow rate to achieve the necessary 1 to 2" Hg of vacuum at wide open throttle and for cruise situations.

It's too much work for a daily driver that could make much more power with a $500 truck engine, avoid all that BS and call it a day
I built one of those also and being honest here... it is far more satisfying and much less stressful knowing you can toss the engine out and grab another for the cost of a pair of tires and be back on the road the next day with 600rwhp, driving the engine cold-started oil temps sitting on 100*F boosting 20psi silently through the gears getting sideways at 7am on the way to school/work without a care 2 minutes after you started the 200,000 mile, 20 year old engine that just doesn't care because its basically built like a twin 2jz from the 90's.