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Mike |
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Cant really see the fan but its easy to remove
https://i.postimg.cc/kM2gp9M4/IMG-3000.jpg You can see the material acting as a shroud-barrier. Its sort of aluminum colored, reflective, but also insulating material and is very pliable and soft. https://i.postimg.cc/GhL5q3x8/IMG-3008.jpg |
Double post
might as well use the space for something I guess https://i.postimg.cc/FsFJRwhX/IMG-3139.jpg I have the factory LOW and HIGH fan relays together driving 1 fan And a separate 40amp relay/fuse by the computer which uses the main power feed from the battery (instead of through the OEM fuse box) https://i.postimg.cc/g2Bn402y/IMG-3053.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/rp0zHLDB/IMG-3058.jpg The other fuses are for injectors, coils, and computer. The computer takes its power directly from the battery and consequently through another separate fuse in the trunk (to avoid the start power wire which the starter inductor will spike with voltage) heres how that looks https://i.postimg.cc/vTZp3WXX/IMG-2368.jpg The small fuse is for computer power. The big giant 60amp relay/fuse is for the fuel pump which is also in the trunk. |
So the altima fans are keeping you pretty cool? Thats impressive for a turbo v8. I may sourse them out. My isr fan and shroud kicks on and stays on they never turn off. Wondering if i should keep my shroud and find some aftermarket 1w inch fans to replace these.
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Lemme throw my .02 in here
The ebay/no name fans need to go, 100%. Proper shrouding is a must with good electric fan or the stock clutch fan no way around it also. Consider mixing your fluid 80 water / 20 coolant with a full bottle of water wetter in. Coolant is actually a misnomer, the green stuff is antifreeze and acts as exactly that. It doesn’t aid in cooling. It does have anti rust properties tho so when you mix with a lower percentage of it DO NOT use distilled water. Tap water or hose water is better; the distilled water will be able to pull ions from the metal inside the block and cause corrosion faster. This is what I’ve done on all 3 heavy track use race cars I’ve owned and never had a cooling issue ever. |
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If you go with the GKtech fan and OEM/JDM shroud, you won't be disappointed. It pulls SERIOUS air. This is a photo taken at idle pulling through FMIC, oil cooler, AC condenser and 2" Koyo: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4671e8_b_d.jpg On that note, I would highly recommend a stock SR thermostat. I currently have a Nismo lower temp thermo in mine, and have the opposite problem- can't keep it warm enough. Mike |
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https://live.staticflickr.com/8094/8...6f7654_b_d.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/5653/3...c6ff47_b_d.jpg **Off-Topic: The catch can lines are not quite correct as pictured. To run this style catch can optimally, the valve cover needs to be modified. Mentioned because some people notice these things :) ---- Again, the GKtech fan is awesome. The stock clutch fan is great too. But to echo others' previous words- Electric fans make a cleaner look and offer better throttle response- and the right setup will do just as well. Just food for thought- An S14 water neck w/ Stance water neck adapter for the turbo's coolant return has no fitment issues whatsoever with the S13 SR, and you'd never again have to fiddle with coolant lines between the engine and firewall. https://live.staticflickr.com/8091/8...768c6e_b_d.jpg Don't remember if your car is a daily, fair weather queen or track car, but anything you can do to make the coolant and oil systems better or more maintainable while you have it apart will pay dividends later on. Hope this helps! Mike |
Use distilled water in anything you care about
coffee makers, steam cleaners, auto-claves, and engine cooling systems. A major goal of (engine/reactor) cooling and use of water in devices is to minimize the ionic/mineral content of water and keep it low by continuously flushing over the years with fresh distilled water (and necessary additives). Electrolysis corrodes engine metals away and occurs when electrical conduction takes places which can only happen when there are ions present. Water purity is often measured in terms of its conduction. So the goal is to minimize conduction/ions which means starting out with as few as possible. The reason some coolants say "can be mixed or used with tap water" is because they contain chelaters and molecular shells which scavenge some unwanted entities from tap water to render them harmless. But that is sort of like drinking dirty pond water and then expecting your immune system to sort the mess out; Instead, just drink the pure water to begin with When you buy 50/50 premixed coolants that 50% of water is distilled water I recommend 90% distilled and 5-15% green antifreeze for Florida cooling systems if the cooling system will be shut for 5~ years or more. Otherwise 100% distilled is great because you can spill it anywhere. |
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While distilled water by itself is truly ideal. It is very unlikely that you are pouring distilled water into a "pure" container. The existing cooling systems likely contain all manner of foreign materials, ranging from oil to organic compounds. Regardless of how well we think flushed the system. So the addition of a 'stabilizer' is somewhat of a requirement, that changes depending on the application. For example if racing around a track, the stabilizer would probably be limited to de-foaming agent and PH buffer, because you want the max amount of water in the cooling system for performance reasons. Water is the best coolant (for our vehicles, because it is safe); limit the use of everything else. |
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Mike |
Mike i have never heard mine either. My 99 s10 4.3 i actually hear it kick on and off and its usually loud when kicking on because of how fast its spinning you hear the sir being pulled. Seeing that picture of your car with the plastic being pulled towards the bumper makes me think the clutch kicks on and turned pretty much into a vacuum like pull. I got my fan shroud and gktech fan with clutch installed and havent had any rise in temp ofer 190 so hopefully im good to go. Highway speeds my temps read 160 170 range which im happy with that.
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Googled, found this on Z1...
"The OEM SR fan clutch uses a viscous coupling to control fan speed based on engine temperature. It's a good design but after 20 years of use, most are simply worn out. Some fail by becoming too loose resulting in the fan spinning slower, often eventually resulting in overheating and catastrophic engine damage. Others fail by locking down and spinning at full engine speed all the time. When this happens the increased drag will rob considerable power and you will hear the sound of a lot of air rushing at idle and low speed." Mystery solved lol... May swap mine out. Worse case, it will make no difference other than peace of mind. |
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https://www.nissanraceshop.com/produ...-s13-s14-s15/# |
I wonder if anyone here has replaced theirs with an aftermarket one from local parts store, a part number for reference would be great.
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