The MaxTuning 900hp S14...
 

Hi guys.
Haven't been around here for a while but i thought it would be nice to share some details on our latest build.
The MaxTuning Drag S14.

Over [email protected] (that would be about [email protected]) from a 2.0L Sr20Det S14.
Here is a better look of the dyno graph - notice the amazing torque curve.
This is all at 35 psi.
http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/2424/918graph.jpg

Check out a small video of the dyno pull, and some pics of the build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_PU9FfqMPg
The MaxTuning, Nissan S14 SR20DET - Over 900whp form a 2.0L Engine ! - YouTube

More details can be found on our facebook page (we'd appreciate a like).
https://www.facebook.com/MaxTuned


Thanks for looking !!!

Very nice figure's, Gave you a like on Facebook.

Make a build thread...its been a while since you've posted anything about the setup.

Perhaps you should translate and/or list more details. I personally cannot read your website.

Any info on the rear tire setup?

damn straight

Here are some specs

Sr20det black top with vtc.
87mm cp pistons.
Tomei Conrods.
Apexi 1.2mm HG.
Mazworx uprate apr head bolts.
Acl calico bearings.
MaxTuning special prepped head with Supertech valves springs and retainers.
Tomei 270 in/ex solid cams and solid lifters conversion.
Precision 6466 billet turbo, with .82 A/R vband inlet outlet housing.
Greddy short intake manifold with 70mm Nissan throttle body.
Bosch 2000cc injectors with dual entry/one return Greddy fuel rail.
Dual aeromotive 340 pump system, with MaxTuning design pump hanger.
Haltech sport 2000 engine management with 4 egt's.

Probably forgetting a lot of stuff...

Who is still tuning on egts in this day and time?

Still... nice work.

What is that supposed to mean?
I don't see a serious tuner passing out on good egt data.
If you are referring to tuning only with egt that is not the case here.
I just mentioned 4 egt's, as this is not trivial on most setups.

Right now iam running on Mickey Thompsons 275/60 15" ET Street Radial.
On the "Track" they are ok, but on the highway the car starts getting sideways as soon as i get to 7000-7500 RPM in third - and this is after a full alignment was done.
Either there is something wrong with the tires, or i should be using a small side wall tire on the street.
Not sure yet.

Have to get a new clutch before i can do more testing...

http://i823.photobucket.com/albums/z...r-troopers.jpg

Wow this thing is sweet, I wanna see more of this.

From the last race. Didnt go so well as we broke an input shaft and had major ignition problems, but i guess there is always, next time...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...27643989_n.jpg

Some pictures of the engine...

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/6084/55340659.jpg

http://img571.imageshack.us/img571/7089/92640306.jpg

I did not see if you mention about the block. Is it sleeved? More info on the block please, 35psi on sr20 is insane.

That's more than 940hp at the crank if you plug in the generic 20% for drivetrain losses.

We measure at the hubs, so from our experience its about 20-30 hp from the crank power, and not procentage.

The block is not sleeved, but it is an interesting experiment.
;-)

What transmission were you running when the input shaft broke? And are you guys running AC and power steering??

Regardless you still have drivetrain losses. Even when measuring at the hubs you still have to take into account the power eaten up by the transmission and the differential. I'd think it's safe to say its over 1000hp at the crank.

Yes. There are losses, but usually most of them are due to the tires and traction.
Measuring at the hubs we eliminate those factors.
So yes, there are still loses but from measuring stock cars compared to the claimed numbers from the manufacturers, we usually see around 20-30 ho difference form hub to crank on RWD. About 10-15 ho loss for FWD and about 30-45 for RWD.
1000 @ crank seems a bit high to me. In any case it is very fast, when it grips.

We are using the z32 box, stock for now. We brok an input shaft at the diff, not at the gearbox.
However, I think it was due to wheel hoop off the line.
We will try to fix this somehow.

We are running both power steering and a/c.
The car is in full street trim.
The only real discomfort is the noise from the exhaust.

Nice numbers. This keeps me motivated to finish my car, even though it won't be done until next spring/summer.

Are you still running the stock R200 rear end or upgraded to the larger R230s off the GTRs/Z32 TTs?

I would hope that he upgraded to the larger differential.

No. Still R200.
The problem is that I already have the DSS drive shafts, and they won't fit to the r230 input shafts without mods as far as I know.
The real problem seems to be the input shafts, not the diff.
Looking into some upgraded input shafts.

Simple awesome setup. :) i hope i also get these figures. :) Subscribed !~

Switch over to R32 GT-R standard mechanical diff. Strongest and most reliable R200 I've seen to date

Amazing build....congrats

I got a new set from autozone..the first thing I noticed was that the shaft was much much larger..thought it was the wrong one.. but it fit perfect ..it was noticeably 5 to 10 mm larger..ill mic the difference between the two tomorrow .

It's typically the CVs and not the shafts that are the weak links.

I've seen a lot of shafts break at the splines into the cv joint. Not the cv itself. And a larger shaft will improve durability. Not to say that it doesn't happen but I just noticed the cv shafts I got were much beafer than stock.. in any case they would have had to change the whole cv joint assembly to use the bigger diam. Shaft anyhow so its a totally different unit than stock..not just a reman..

I see on the parts list you say s14 sr with VTC, but surely with 270 cams you deleted vtc right?