RB FAQ
 

By popular demand, here's an FAQ for Nissan's RB-series motor.

You can use a z32 yoke for the driveshaft, it mates the RB tranny

custom downpipe has to be made to clear the steering column

You NEED custom mounts available from Mckinney or Phase2. Ebay has them once in a while as well.

E-fans are a must since you loose the extra space for your clutch fan

I'll think of more later..

i think you gotta bash up part of the firewall to make starter fit i believe, not sure if that applies to s14 also

Z32 N/A clutch will fit in an RB25 tranny. it is a direct fit. the flywheel however, will not fit.

correct on the Yoke. The downpipe is not the issue in clearing the steering column its actually the elbow . Which most installers notch.
We addressed this issue by making a custom 3 inch elbow/downpipe , to this date no one else I have seen has done this, we also make custom urethane engine mounts, transmission brackets and swaybar brackets and driveshaft. It is a complete kit that is coming out shortly. We feel it will blow the competitions right out of the water.
shameless promotion here for Syko Performance.

this is so not true. Trust me I own a RB powered S13. See my comments above about kits.

you need to upgrade fuel pump
PS lines and AC lines have to be re-fabricated

and google turned this up
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0309scc_hybrid/

[QUOTE=NemeGuero]you need to upgrade fuel pump
PS lines and AC lines have to be re-fabricated

and google turned this up
http://sportcompactcarweb.com/tech/0309scc_hybrid/[/QUOTE
We are in the process of designing custom AC lines. We also have actually designed a custom Power steering line setup as well. Not sure when that stuff will be ready for marketplace though.

well shoot.. I guess you're the guy to get in touch with for an RB swap.. hahah
we should just erase all these posts and put your contact info in a single thread.

;)

Oo, friend has s13 with rb25 with mckinney motor mounts, we had to bang it in to fit for some reason, don't know why but thats what we did unless we did it wrong or something

from what i understand, i think it depends on which mount kit you use. im not 100% though.

mckinney mounts DON'T require banging out the firewall..so no

"When you guys are done kissing I got some ass kicking for you" PM rb street Jesus, I already see false info.

ok i'm done kissing and waiting

well, my info is not false for a RB25 install. You did a 26 there are some differences in the installs. Since you feel your info is so ass kicking and superior share it. Instead of playing P.M. me in private, and playing it like your so superior.Almost sounds like a exercise in your ego. I am not saying it is but it comes off that way. If not I apologize in advance.


oh ya and for everyone. These installs have a number of ways to be done, depending on if you utilize a R33 GTST crossmember with the stock RB engine brackets, (which is what we do) or not.
We choose this particulare method because it allowed us with our Custom Urethane mounts to move the engine as far back and as low as possible in the S13 chassis.
Yes we did custom power steering lines,it works kick ass too!! I am in the process of finishing up my air, using a RB25 R33 air con compressor and fittings. All we had to do is have the lines extended to my stock lines coming from the firewall.
The only reason I say what I say is because compared to whats on the market our setup is cleaner and looks much more factory.
Ours will be a product not someones back yard job.

Whoa there buddy. Anyways, Its not like the only rb swap I did was a 26. Ive done 7 rb20's and 2 rb25's. As for the 25's one we used the crossmember and modified the tranny mount. the second one we made our own mounts. While you two girls were fighting, I was stating was wrong. As far as the pm. Its not me. Though I could answer most of your rb questions, the Streetjesus is a newbee on this forum, that knows the answer to every question known to man. He roams around but never posts,(30ish posts). His name is Wazimba. Me and him started Snailworks a while ago, then I went to school and he went to work for TigerRacing. He is a walking dictionary.

nobody was fighting,
and you still need custom mounts, whether you modify your original mounts or buy new ones, you still can NOT utilize the stock mounts in their stock condition

and re-drilling stock mounts doesn't seem like the 'best' of ideas

you can do it the right way, or put a bandaid on it and hope it stays

it will bolt in using the R33 crossmember and fit well enough to get you on the road, but the engine will sit a little higher and a little farther forward than is ideal. Some of the hood bracing will have to be removed to clear the throttle body and blow-off valve flange and the shifter will sit about an inch and a half forward of the center of the shifter hole in the floor. The Skyline's transmission crossmember is nearly identical to the one on the 240SX, but the transmission is longer, so it won't line up with the holes in the car. Again, you have options.

If this is just a show car, file the bolt holes on the transmission mount so it can slide forward on the transmission a half inch or so. Then shove on the flimsy, flexy transmission mount until the center hole on each side of the crossmember (originally a drain hole, not a bolt hole, but it will work) lines up with the rearmost mounting hole on the car. Bolt it on with one bolt on each side (it's supposed to have two) and go polish something. Oh, sure, the top of the transmission will be jammed up into the top of the tunnel, but that won't really matter on a show car.

Now, if you actually intend to use that big turbo six to make power, two bolts aren't enough, and having the transmission hitting the tunnel won't do.
Finally, if you want the engine to sit low enough to clear the hood bracing, the shifter to sit where it used to, the steering shaft not to hit the downpipe and everything to bolt in properly, there's a third option. McKinney Motorsports in San Diego, Calif., unStable Hybrids in Conyers, Ga.,Syko Performance in Torrance Calif, all make engine mount kits that move the engine down and back about an inch and a half. In addition to making everything fit better, moving the drivetrain, which weighs about 650 pounds, shifts the center of gravity in exactly the right direction. This is also the ideal option if you have an engine, transmission, harness and ECU, but no front clip.

so if you have done 7 RB20's you know its a completely different install. It seems like you and street jesus have a ego problem. You have to resort to name calling to prove your point? Thats signs of a ego , again if you don't I apologize in advance but once again someone under your sig or you have gone off in such a way that looks like ego.
If street Jesus is some kind of god who knows so much why does not post under his own screen name ? sounds like ego once again.
Again like I stated before , I am speaking from having a working product that I have even shown here on the forums and posted about. I do not need any RB questions answered. My associate was installing RB's in S14's over 6 years ago, thats before Mckinney or anyone else. In fact his ITB SR20de is in this months Super Street. Our stuff is clean and right so much that I can say it and market it. Thats a pretty strong statement.

actually again SyKO engine mounts address this issue . My engine sits low enough to use the stock manifold and not touch your hood. though I did put the Greddy intake on because I wanted too.
Syko transmission brackets allow you to use the factory S13/S14 crossmember. SyKO swaybar brackets allow the swaybar not to hit the oil pan either. All of this stuff is high performance stuff designed to handle high HP.
YOu can add SyKO company to that list above .Syko Performance in Torrance Calif.


P.S. I no longer work with Syko though they are a great company. I am on to my own things.

Now you're starting to talk crap. From pissing me off, I conclude your talking shit, is your marketing tool. Flipping the "ego" thing around on you.

sorry drift freaq, that was a direct quote from the SCC article I looked up.. I'll edit it for ya :)

Just easy kinda things heres some parts info RE RB25det

Clutch kit = Z32 N/A
Throwout bearing = will work for z31 turbo, some others work too.
Coil Packs = Z32
Nismo Thermostat = Same as z32/ xterra, all 6 cyl
Nismo FPR (Highly recommended on all cars with walbros, fuel pressure is too high causes super richness) = 22670-RR580US (same as SR20det model)

Maf = Same as J30 maf on series 1!?, any z32 filter will adapt to the maf, but the plug is the main concern.

other info that is good

--------------------------
Make sure you change your waterpump, and timing belt before you swap, who knows how many miles your engine has, its better now then when it shits out on you and you have to do it from inside.

S14 can use tach and speedo, as well as coolant temp gauge (must swap in KA coolant temp sensor into RB temp sensor location.) It reads a little bit faster on warm up, but is accurate thereafter. To use the tach correctly, recalibrate it using the adjustment screw on the back of the gauge cluster, you need something else to read your RPMs to calibrate it correctly. Remember rb is 6 cyl vs 4 cyl, so tach will read 1.5 too much. I.e. 2000 rpms reads as 3000 rpms on your tach.

Lower harness:
Use your KA lower harness. You will have to cut off the starter plug and rewire it inplace of the Ka start plug (spade plug). You willneed to cut off the KA oil pressure sender, replace with the rb one. Starter loops that you secure on with 10/12 mm bolts, you may have to ream the inside or replace the loop that is secured with the bolts. Everything else pretty much works. Also extend the KA tranny harnesses , some plug up, those that don't make sure you splice them with the correct plug from the KA harness.

I had to bang mine for a half hour =T

The FPR model numbers are different from the SR.
My RB26 FPR:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/RB26FPR1.jpg

let me recheck my box i might've made an error.

rb25 valves are the same as vg30dett valves.

Do you guys know where I can get help with wiring? Thanks!

drift freaq: I'm gonna need my A/C & P/S so help a brotha out! Let me know what you can do for me as far as parts! Thanks!

you guys are talking about using Walbro pumps, but isn't the Z32TT fuel pump good enough to be considered an upgrade for SupraTT guys? If you use the Z32TT fuel pump you can utilize the stock FRP without a problem, and you don't have to futz with the nismo unit. Just offering an idea (that i'm well aware could be flawed since this just came to me), that could offset some of the extra (possibly unneccesary) cost associated with the walbro pump/nismo FPR setup.

I thought some basic rb info was needed in this thread so I hit up google and here it is.
click here for the site

The RB Engine
"The RB engine is a 2.0 L to 3.0 L straight-6 piston engine from Nissan. It is an aluminum and cast iron DOHC 4-valve per cylinder design. All RB engines have belt driven cams. All turbo models have an intercooled turbo and recirculating factory blow off valve (with the exception of automatic Laurels and Cefiros) to relive turbo boost when the throttle is closed. All are twin cam except the single cam 2 L RB20E and 3 L RB30E engine.

From 1998 the RB series (except the RB20E and RB30E, as they were discontinued) was released with a "NEO" head. This enabled the engine to be classed as a LEV (low emission vehicle) engine. With the NEO head, torque and power were further improved although the RB26DETT produced still only 205.94 kW on paper, according to Nissan specs. In reality it produces more than this but it is under estimated because all main Japanese car manufacturers have gentlemen's agreement not to produce cars with engines exceeding 206 kW."

RB20
"There were three 2.0 L RB20 engines produced:

RB20E - single-cam
RB20DE - twin-cam
RB20DET - twin-cam turbo

R32 and R33 Skylines, Laurels and Cefiros used the RB20E/DE/DET, R34 skylines used the RB20DE engine with a NEO head. The non turbo models were also fitted to various Holdens in Australia and New Zealand."

RB25
"The 2.5 L RB25 engine was produced in two forms:

RB25DE - twin-cam
RB25DET - twin-cam turbo

RB25DE and DET engines produced from August 1993 also featured variable cam timing (VCT) for the intake cam. This gave the new RB25DE more power and torque at lower rpm than the previous model.

In May 1998 a NEO head was fitted. This was also a low emission vehicle engine (LEV). The non VCT and non turbo was fitted to the R32 Skyline, the VCT turbo and non turbo was fitted to R33 Skylines and Stages. R34 Skylines also use these engines but they are fitted with a NEO head."

RB26
"The only 2.6 L RB26 was the RB26DETT. This was also the only twin turbo RB."

RB26DETT
"The first 2.6 L RB26DETT featured twin turbochargers and produced 280 hp (205.94 kW) @ 6800 rpm and 260 ft.lbf (353 Nm) @ 4400 rpm. The last series of the RB26DETT (with NEO head) produced 280 hp (205.94 kW) @ 6800 rpm and 289 ft.lbf (392 Nm) @ 4400 rpm. It is renowned for its strength and many examples have been modified to produce over 1000 hp (776 kW)."

It was used in the following cars:

Nissan Skyline GT-R R32
Nissan Skyline GT-R R33
Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 with NEO head.
Tommy Kaira ZZII

we have wiring service Ka, get a hold of me in private. also I can tell you more about the P. S. . We actually might be marketing a P.S. kit as well :D . As far as AC goes it prettty much a use the AC compressor that comes with the engine make sure its still got the stock line fittings and get a AC shop to extend your lines for you.
Oh ya folks are swap kits are now up in the group buy section.
P.S. good info morpheus

I figured out the wiring, I still need PS so make me a kit! Will your downpipe that you sell in your RB25 install kit clear the steering column in my S13 RB20 w/ using the R32 crossmember? I can have one made but if you can sell me one at a resonable price you have a deal!

Rb/s13
 

Im Doing An Rb20 Swap In My S13. Im Running Into A Couple Of Problems.
-speedo: What All Do I Need? R32 Cluster, Speed Cable? And Can You Point Me In The Right Direction To Find This.
-the Ecu That Was Sent W/ My Motor Set Doesn't Plug Into The Harness. I Have Pics, E-mail Me If Your Curious And I'll Send Um To Ya. Has Anyone Esle Ran Into This Problem?

Take the 5 speed Spesdo sensor out of the Ka tranny and put it into the Rb20 tranny. There you go you now have a Speedo. It should work like normal if you used the Ka lower harness onto the Rb20 motor.

For those of you doing the RB26/RB25 swap, the KA speed sensor is not a direct fit. The easiest thing to do is to wire the RB25 sensor into the KA lower harness. The RB26 uses a cable type speedo sensor so that is out of the question.

One more thing, as far as pounding out the firewall, the only place that you should need to do this is where the bump for the starter is on the transmission. You may not NEED to pound this out if you sit the motor far enough forward, but to sit it back as much as I prefer, you will need to knock the existing starter depression in about another 1/2" or so.

Some people also prefer to bend down the seem that runs along the back of the engine bay, but I have found this to be unnecessary thus far.

You should not need to pound the firewall even with your engine set as far back as possible. I did not need to do it on my car with our install kit and everyone who is buying or has bought our install kit has not needed to do it.

Do you have an RB20 or an RB25? With the rb20 you do not have to bang it(the firewall and tranny channel) in because the tranny is smaller than the rb25. With the rb25 you do have to bang it in like drift factory said around the starter area. Unless your mount kit places the engine so far foward to where is touching your radiator or so low that your engine is tilting down on your pasenger side. I would like to see pics of your mounts and how your engine sits in your car. Also what is all this your taling about a kit for the power steering. The only modification you have to do is, if you have an S13 that had the KA24E, the single cam, then you need the lines from a KA24DE and a resevoir. Even in one of those I bent the power steering line enough to where I can hook it up to the pump. It sounds like you're promoting your shop more then trying to give out info..

Out of all the rb20 I did using the r32 crossmember only one I did not have to shave the dump pipe of the turbo to fix the steering problem.

i wanted to know if the z32 valves fit the rb25 head and what else parts head wise i can use from a rb26 or z32

No, you do not have to bang out the firewall in your tunnel with the RB25. If you do, its because the kit your using does not lower your engine low enough in the compartment, or allow you to move the engine backwards or forwards. That is where the the issues lies. kits that mount the engine high, will have tunnel clearance issues on the starter/tranny area. If you look in the chat section right now, koukiS14 aka henry, is doing a install with our kit right now.
The Syko kit allows you to move the engine backwards or forwards thereby leaving it up to you how far back you want it. In extreme cases there could be a little tapping and I mean little in the starter area, but you do not have to position the engine so far back as to have to do that with the Syko kit.
The key to dropping the engine lower and pushing it back, is keeping the engines center of gravity low and being able to have room to move the engine and trans back far enough. Which negates any weight balance issues that could happen or people can claim.
Am I promoting our kit a bit ? Yes! Why because I feel its superior to any kit out there and I would like to see people doing clean installs right the first time . Not with pounding body panels to make things fit.
On top of this , on the power steering comment you made.
You do have to shorten one of the twin cams power steering lines and run it directly back to the pump. This is nesscesary when your using the R33 crossmember, which is what we utilize with our kit. In that instance you wind up eliminating some of the loop that Nissan designed in the line for cooling. Hence why we have played with the idea for a kit to help the cooling side of things.

you have to beat the firewall unless you use the r33 crossmember and does anyone use tomei main bearings or any like them

lyon, if you read my posts carefully you will see I run a RB25. I do not own a shop. I do sell a install kit, the best on the market. If you look at the RB25 install in S14 thread in chat you will see it. If you look at our group buy you will see it.
I would like to see people do this swap right. The owner of Syko was the first person to put a RB25 in a S14 in the U.S. over 6 years ago. I have been involved with Nissans for 20 plus years. I like to see people do clean work and not hack jobs. Giving out info about the kit is giving out info.

drift its up to the person that does the swap i seen a few that used mckinney or tohat mounts that looked good you can make any engine sway look shitty and the earlyest car i found with a rb in it was some guy in fl that crashed the car in 02 and died and lyon about bending the lines most engine swaps dont bolt in you gotta adjust alot of things to get it all good

Andrew, nothing personal but the Mckinney kit just looks terrible as does the Tophat IMHO. One of our customers had a Tophat kit and decided to sell it because he liked how much nicer the Syko kit was.
Oh ya and on that earliest car. That car was not done before 99. If you look at it, you will see its a Kouki S14 which means it was brand new in 97-98. I saw that on the RB25det.org website.
Gary Narusawa(Syko Performance) did his first RB25 S14(Zenki) car in 98-99, by 99-2000 he swapped the engine from his street car into his S14 track car. There are pictures all over the web from track events of that car. The only other swap that I know of thats documented at that time in the country was the Unstable Hybrids RB20 swap.

P.S. Oh ya whoever runs RB25det.org needs to get their facts straightened out. They State the T28 is the factory Turbo for the RB25 on their homepage. That is just straight up wrong. The factory turbo on the RB25 is a T3.

i ordered my rb25det from venus auto ill have it soon im probably gonna use mckinney mounts im lazy dont feel like pulling out a crossmember if i break them ill make soild mounts

Andrew, removing the crossmember is not that hard, you can drop it complete with the engine still on it. Just lift your chassis over it if your feeling lazy. There are more benefits to the Skyo kit than just the crossmember. You will not have to notch your elbow for your steering if you use the Skyo kit. Trust me if you want your swap to be done fast like Henry's(kouki_s14) and running right you will think twice about the McKinney kit.

McKinny Mount kit fits perfectly, i couldnt believe how well the motor fits into the 240sx engine bay once i installed it, motor is place with 3 cylinders behind the cross member and the other 3 in front, its low enough for the hood to clear with ZERO problems and the dump pipe fits with about 1/4 inch to spare from the steering collum. and the tranny mount, fits A plus, might be pricey but its very high quailty. I just did this install about 2 weeks ago. Didnt take any tweakying or rigging for it to fit in, it literally once line up over the mounts DROPED right in.

and andrew i dont see you breaking the mounts.

Just to clear up a few things. The transmission tunnel clearance issue is applicable to any kit you chose. With the SYKO kit, there is adjustment to move the engine front or rear in order to clear the tunnel. However, if you chose to set the engine as far rearward as possible, at some point, the area of the bellhousing close to the starter will be the first spot to come in contact with the firewall. We've designed the Syko kit to situate the engine as low as possible in order to maximize the clearance in this area. In short, if you set the engine to it's rearmost position it will interfere with the firewall. However, in most cases, the engine can be installed without any modification to the firewall.

Dave, I appreciate your efforts to promote my products, as I know you believe in them. However, please respect Andrew's right to chose whatever kit he feels will best fit his situation. In addition, lets not attack RB25DET.org as they are valuable resource to our community.

Andrew, as Dave has stated, installing the crossmember is not a difficult thing to do. It does require extra time, but the results are worth it in the end. The SYKO kit is designed so that you will not have an issue with the steering shaft or the swaybar. As there are no modifications needed in this area, your swap should go very smoothly.

Bottom line, whatever system you guys chose to use should get the job done. Chose whatever kit best fits your needs. I'd prefer to lose a sale than to see this thread turn ugly. Let's use this forum to promote information rather than products.
Sincerely,
Gary Narusawa
SYKO Performance

http://cars.ign.com/articles/392/392688p1.html

good writeup on how to put a RB26 in a S14. who the hell knew that IGN had a cars section.

Karl is a great guy. Funny as hell too. His write-up is well worth reading. I have mad respect for this guy as he fabricates most things himself and is not scared to push the limits. What happened to his S14 was tragic. Nice thing is that he didn't let that disaster hold him back. If you thought his S14 was sick, just wait till he finishes his current project.

syko i posted a good list of sites on rb25det.org both yours and daves sites are on there with alot of part sites you might wanna take a look

Thanks Andrew. I really appreciate that.
-Gary

This is the thread to Kouki_s14's RB install writeup with lots of pics and great synopsis of some of the more technical stuff he did to make his project run.

#/f/showthread.p...151#post887151

I thought it belonged in here.

R34 Rb25det
 

Just a side not for you people looking at gettign a R34 RB25DET, the trans is a pull type instead of a push type so you are left with 2 options

1. buy a R32 or 33 trans and use it (with lots of money)
2. convert it to a push type witch takes time and effort but can be done.

i found a writeup on racebread.com on how to do the swap, but since i don't like either of those options i will go with option

3. just get a series II R33 RB25DET

Do you guys over in the states and rest of the world know that if you Use a A31 Nissan Cefiro engine Cross member then the RB engine drop straight in with standard mounts and all? haha if you didn't know you do. Trust us Kiwis we know all about that shit.

slydho i have heard that before wont a r33 front mout fit too i do wanna know if anyone has tried a different tranny like the z32 one like most sr owners want

the r33 crossmember does let you drop the motor straight in, however it will not be at an ideal position. too high and too far forward, but it fits. maybe the A31 cefiro positions it better? i dont know, but if it does show us some pictures!

henry i have heard the a31 one makes it fit great aint seen any pictures tho might have to search some aussie sites to find them

Put spacers in the R33 crossmember to drop it down so the hood clears.

Lowering your crossmember changes the pivot point of your LCA. If you lower the car as most of us do,this will add to the problem of positive camber under suspension compression i.e. turns, bumps etc. The reason for this is ideally your lower control arm should be downward and moving to a parallel situation under compression. Its not ideal to be starting in any kind of upwards position or moving to that, because it will negatively affect your handling as stated earlier.
The other problem with this pratice is it takes away from ground clearance. The ideal way is to lower your engine through your mounts.

does a sr turbo elbow fit the rb25

nope, it wont.

VG30DETT and VG30DE valves are the same. as well as cams, timing belt, thermostat, Head and Head gasket.

no the vg valves dont fit there longer i look up both spec dont not listen to thesnail only parts that fit are the lifters springs and i believe the cam gears the cams wont fit there too short

well that is only Ovious I did not catch that earlier. yeah it;s true VG Cams won't fit the RB as for the cams being too short is is straight Ovious .the VG is Atwin cam V6 there for having 4 cams (2 intake 2 exhaust) so the cams are only long enough for 3 cylidners. but the TT and NA (VG30DE) cam gears are the same. (basically the VG30DE and TT Engines are the same the only diference is the location and position of the Oil Squirters and the Pitons everithing else is the same.

-Juanton

with a mount kit in an s14 with a koyo rad will any electric fans fit between rad and motor?
i was specifically curious about altima fans.

if FAL 220's are too thick (witch i found out after buying them) altima fans are WAY too thick. from what i have heard front mount is the best option followed by the ghetto looking 1 pusher and 1 puller setup.

Man Tenchuu ,my s13 does not look ghetto and its got the 1 pusher 1 puller setup. Hahahahahaha
Actually my and quote "ghetto setup" will flow more air than a dual pusher setup.

i said ghetto looking, had nothing to do with performance. i just perfer the balenced look of 2 togather vs the staggered 1 push and 1 pull.

hahaha ya and I was referring to ghetto looking. hahhahha the setup does not look ghetto on my s13 hahhahhaha.
I threw in the Performance part just to rib you. hahhahahha
Also all jokes aside. With the S13, there is not enough clearance to run dual pullers, especially if your running air. There is, also limited room to attempt a dual pusher setup on the front side. Hence the push pull setup.
The s14 has a much larger front area, allowing for dual pushers.

P.S. give me a call ken I got a plug I need to send to you.

Just to clarify. We've found that the S-14 has plenty of room for dual pushers in front of the AC condenser. However, on the S-13 one of the AC condenser lines interferes on the left side of the car. This limits the size of fans you can run. If you remove the AC condenser, there is plenty of room for dual pushers. Thus, we recommend the push/pull setup for the S13 if you plan to keep AC.

As for pullers, there is only enough room for a very thin single fan on the right side. We only know of two ways to run dual pullers. One is to get rid of the AC compressor and Power steering pump. The other is to notch the radiator support and move the radiator and condenser forward. This goes for both the S13 and S14. Using the Koyo makes any type of puller setup more difficult as it is a very thick radiator.

does anyone have stock specs and info for the rb25? especially what stock compression should be.

Are you looking for specs for compression test or compression ratio? Assuming you are looking for specs for a compression test my reference shows:

Standard: 12.2 kg/cm2 (173 psi)
Min limit: 9.2 kg/cm2 (131 psi)
max variance between cylinders: 1.0 kg/cm2 (14psi)

disheartening news.
so can altima fans be wired to push and would they fit in the other side?
what other dual 12" setups would fit and what do peope here reccomend?
i have an s14 with a koyo, but my intercooler is pretty much sandwhiched up against the rad towards the very top.

ok, what do you guys think of dual 10s pushing and a little guy 9" puller?
with a koyo, low temp thermostat, and the n1 water pump.
this is what i think im going to go with. do not think dual 12s can fit for my setup.

my vote goes to FAL dual pullers and of course no air to make them fit there! but then again, thats just me as i hate air period.. new or used car :)

that is the stupidest and most unrelatrf response ever.
readwhat was written.dual 12 pullers are beyond out of the question.
thanks for upping your post count with your useless and uninformed opinion.
please delete your post yesterday...

The size isn't the issue there, it is the CFM, if you get a high CFM fan it should do the job

for cooling i am sporting 2 10" HP permacool fans between them both should pull 2500cfm or push 80% of that (2000 CFM) or i can do the alternate thing like Drift freaq said and push/pull 2250 CFM (http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page16.html) if you can find a 10" that no shit flows 5000 CFM then you would only need one.

thanks. you answered my question.

Our car handles pretty good even with the lowered crossmember. This is with basically replacement shocks and Tein Luxo Master Springs. I am very happy with the performance.

This is true, but lowering the crossmember is a lot easier and cheaper.

what i meant was the two fan set up in front of the radiator of an S13, not S14, and i wasnt answering your question on the fan set up, simply stating for others who plan on doing it in an S13 chassis and dont care about keeping their AC. Sorry if i didnt make it clear or used a wrong pusher/puller term that may have confused you. Anyways, thanks for your smartass reply!

S14/rb25det
 

Flex-a-lites "puller" don`t fit between Koyo radiator and engine.
"Pusher" in front will work.

whats the biggest turbo that fits the stock exhaust manifold and turbo elbow on a rb25

I just put in 2 10" permacool HP fans and they barley fit in the front.

EDIT they don't push enuff air, they fail at life.

Many turbo`s will fit the T3 flange. Like this Precision GT3582R 600hp+
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i70/tjomi/GT3582R.jpg
Don`t know of any turbo that will fit std elbow ...6 bolt pattern.

As Tex said, the T3 manifold side is no problem. Only turbos I know of that fit with the factory O2 housing/elbow were the ones sold in the HKS ECR33 GT Sports turbine kit. Most people putting on a very large turbo are willing to deal with some fabrication. Don't expect to find many direct bolt on turbos for this engine.

yeah i started looking around i might say hell with it and get a top mount with somthing big

Any T3 or T3/T4 turbo will fit. The highest horsepower, readily available turbo that will bolt on is a T3/T4 with a 67mm compressor. Stage 5 wheel is about the biggest exhaust wheel that you should put in a T3 exhuast housing. A P trim will fit, but is not a good idea.

I run that site and I hope by now you've figured out that turbo is NOT a T3, it just has a T3 flange. It's a hybrid turbo.