Ka24det FAQ
 

Same as the SR sticky. Post up stuff here.
When I get back from class I'll add my information here. For now, all you people with FMU and otherwise stock fuel setup, go boost. I don't want you to disgrace or defame the KA anymore than it has been.
-Jeff

Thank You Jeff!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Jeff correct any of this if im terribly wrong because this is off the top of my head.
It's Maeda btw.

Turbo's of choice + Fuel Ideas
300HP+
T04
T3/T04[e]
---
JWT ECU/SAFC2/Emanage/ETC.
Walboro 255
450cc and up
Cobra/Z32 MAF

250-270HP
T3/T04[b/e]
Big T3 (60 trim and up) [standard t3 can do it.]
[t28 - see also, AceinHole]
---
JWT ECU/SAFC2/Emanage/ETC.
Walboro 255
370cc - 450cc
Cobra/Z32 MAF
or
Hacked MAF(?)
[Walbro 255]
370cc - 450cc
or
RRFPR [NOT RECOMMENDED FOR MORE THAN TEMPORARY DRIVING!]
[Walbro 255]
370cc - 450cc

Up to 250HP
Smaller T3
T28
---
JWT ECU/SAFC2/Emanage/ETC.
Walboro 255
370cc and up
or
Hacked MAF(?)
[Walbro 255]
370cc - 450cc
or
RRFPR [Again, not recommended]
[Walbro 255]
370cc - 450cc

Cobra MAF works only with JWT.
Z32 MAF is compatible with most piggybacks.
R32 MAF can also be used and is compatible with most piggybacks.

Cheap Injectors
370cc Injectors come from stock SR20DET's (about 150$ total)
450cc Injectors come from DSM's and require a custom fuel rail (about 200$ total)
480cc Injectors come from S15 SR20DET (about 250$ total)

Cheap Intercoolers
Side-mount SR20DET i/c's will work up to about 200HP
Blue Bird i/c's (slightly bigger) will work up to about 250HP
People have been known to stack sidemount intercoolers to good effect.

It is in my opinion better to shoot for about 250RWHP on the KA and tune for throttle response instead of going for 300+RWHP and having to deal with turbo lag. It's cheaper and more useful if you do anything other then drag racing or racing people on the LA on-ramps. :)

[I've added stuff in brackets throughout the post, as it was fairly long and I didn't want to quote it. ~Jeff]

Edit: Fuel pumps are a MUST when going KAT. Read Jeff's post below this one for more info.

Hacked MAF is also a good option that requires NO ECU mods or piggyback fuel systems. All you do is stick your maf sensor element in a larger tube (size depending on injector/turbo size). a good size to use with 370's is ~2.6ID tube when running 250rwhp or below. some people have run up to a 3"ID with higher numbers.

Starion Intercoolers are also a good option. relatively efficient and good size. good to 300rwhp from what i've heard.

Z31 turbos are a T3, but difficult to fit due to the turbo elbow. not recommended for top mount manifolds.

oil feed line from the turbo can come from 2 places. a sandwich plate between the block and oil filter or the more common, oil pressure sender location, right below the oil filter. thread pitch is 1/8" BSPT. 1/8" NPT will work but will more often than not strip out the hole. then you are FUXORED! so don't use NPT thread pitch on the block. Only problem with BSPT is finding it stateside. America, being the geniuses we are decided to make up our own thread pitch, and not use the world's standard (BSPT). sound familiar?.... not using metric system maybe? haha anyways. Also be careful with braided stainless oil feed lines, they are the best for the job, but you can put holes in them relatively easy. I routed mine back behind the engine because I thought over the valvecover was ugly. it looked better, but got snagged on something and got a hole in it. luckily I was almost home when it happened, if I had been driving for another 5 mins my engine would have been toast.

One of the biggest bitches of everything I did was welding in the oil drain fitting to my oil pan. well not the welding itself, that was the easiest part. taking off the oil pan and especially putting it back on SUCKS!!!! set aside a full day to do it.

another good thing to do is buy a high flow cat for your kat. it seems to be one of the most overlooked parts of a kat setup. Summit sells a universal DOT approved one for like $53 shipped, very good quality. I've got one and love it.

that's about all of the random shit I can think of right now.

I know I'm prolly not supposed to do this but....... [No. You were right. You're not supposed to do that. ~Jeff]

It's not a misconception. The stock pump has enough fuel to go there, but the lifespan of a pump running full throttle is severely shortened. Then, if you're like me and drive with barely any gas (fuel pump coolant) it's as good as cooked.
Also, using an adjustable or rising rate fuel pressure regulator puts more stress on the pump, and every pump becomes less efficient when pumping more pressure. This cause lead to fuel starvation, and destroying your motor. It's $100, and I'm dead serious, don't fuck around with "skimping" on fuel. Even at 4psi, get a new $100 pump, or it will eventually be a $500 KA.
-Jeff

I edited my post to hopefully not lead people in the wrong direction.

Is this false too?:

A high flow pump will blow out your FPR.
[This is untrue. To a point. I'm running the Walbro 255l/hr high-pressure pump on the stock fuel pressure regulator. However, a z32 tt pump will outflow the fpr. This won't necessarily break it, but it won't be able to hold a constant pressure, will bump up the pressure to the rail, and you'll run rich. Anything over a Walbro 255 hi-flo needs an aftermarket regulator.]
~Jeff

Power Levels
Some companies advertise stage 1, 2, and 3 for turbo kits. This isn't very fair in my opinion, because z32 guys get 5+ levels. So I'm just going to make up new stages, based on what builds I've seen.

Stage .5:
Turbo kit, usually junkyard style, smic, and rrfpr.
Parts needed:
Turbo, manifold, blow off valve (BOV), wastegate (unless you have an actuated turbo), smic, fuel pump, rrfpr.
Estimated power levels: It's hit or miss. I've seen 180rwhp @ 6-8psi, and I've seen 230rwhp @ 8psi.

Stage 1:
Basic turbo kit. FMax and XSEngineering both sell their kits with rrfprs, which irks me, because they rarely include a severely-needed fuel pump. Any well pieced together kit will make the same power levels.
Parts needed: Everything from above, but with better parts, and a FMIC.
Claimed power levels: 220rwhp @ 6psi to 240rwhp at 8psi. Depends on the kit.

Stage 2:
This is where people usually go next.
Parts needed:
3" Exhaust. Aftermarket head filter, usually s-afc + 370cc injectors
Estimated power levels: 240 @ 6psi to 260 @ 8psi.

Stage 3.
About 3 in 10 go this far with their turbo kits.
Parts needed:
This is always a tuned ecu, usually z32 or cobra maf, 370cc injectors or larger, aiming for 3" turbo-back exhaust, so larger downpipe, testpipe or high-flow catalytic convertor. Here grip and traction matter.
Estimated power levels: This is a grey area, as there are so many variables. 370cc injectors top out at 275rwhp or so. As does the stock maf. Ignition system is recommended for 300hp+, because the boost tends to blow out the spark.
Here's what I'll say: Limits: 370cc injectors = 270rwhp @ 8-10psi. 50# injectors = 350rwhp @ 15-18psi. At 325rwhp or so, I'd think about moving to stage 4.

Stage 4:
Time for more boost. But with the factory piston ring lands so prone to shattering, they've got to go. While you're there, there are some optional parts to replace.
Required: Forged pistons. While you're in the motor, think about replacing (optional): Rods, rod and main bearings, oil pump, timing components, all gaskets and seals (front and rear main seals, ect). Servicing the tranny and replacing tranny seals should also be done. (I didn't do that, and now have a leaking rear tranny seal :( )
Power limits: This is rare air. Encroaching on the 400hp club. 72# injectors will be good to 440rwhp or so. Tuning becomes a major factor for the exact horsepower limits. 50# injectors should be thrown away, because they're still limiting you to 350rwhp.

Stage 5:
The whole damn thing. You've got boost. Lots of it. On your built bottom end. But there's gotta be a top end, too. So fix it.
Parts needed: Cams. Swap in some cams, and you'll feel like it's a different car. You'll need some valve springs and retainers, because a built bottom end and cams will open up a 7200-7500rpm redline, and I'm sure you'd want to use it. While you're there, think about valves, and a valve job. Deburr and polish the head (mild port and polish job). Port match the head for the intake and exhaust manifolds.
Cautions: Do not do a major port and polish. This has been blamed for many high powered motors, from BoostedS14 on here, to Chris May's 2 motors in the 438rwhp s14 that was featured in SCC.
*When you swap cams, your car will go from not wanting to approach redline to bouncing off the rev limiter. Hehehe*
Power levels: You still care about these? It's in the 11 second range. Same power, less boost.

Stage 5+:
This isn't really a stage, but wallet permitting, there are many more things you can do. From standalone engine management and throwing out the maf to creating your own intake manifold, or extrude honing the stockie. Imagination and wallet are the limits. You could have even worked with JWT to develop a 96# injector program (now in progress) for sick, sick power levels. 96# injectors should be good to 575+, I haven't done the calculations on it.

Now. This is for refrence only. Don't bitch when you spend $4k and make 10 or 20hp less than "estimated." Alot depends on tuning, and the condition of your motor. There are also the Nissan Freak motors, which produce 30hp more than they should on any setup. Look at the enjuku SR, 393 hp on a t3/4, while no other SR has done over 330 on that kit.
-Jeff

ok now if an adjustable fuel pressure regulator is so bad.. what if i have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator running 550 cc injectors.. without running a chipped ecu or a stand alone.. just a piggy back.. and i am also running the walbro 255 pump.. do you guys think it is ok to turn down the fuel pressure? to lean it out a bit?

It's bad. There is no reason to run any aftermarket fuel pressure regulator on 550cc or 50# injectors. At base fuel pressure, they provide enough fuel for 350rwhp. And running that much power on a piggyback is stupid. So you're not getting any benefits from the regulator. I would, however, suggest an ecu tune for over 260hp.
-Jeff

i understand... but due to time constraints as well as a limited budget.. i ain't planning on trying to make more than 250 whp at 10 psi... for the meantime... and when i actually have enough money to go bookoo bucks on nice engine i will also opt for stand alone as well.

You don't need an adjustable fpr, seeing as 550cc injectors are MORE THAN ENOUGH fuel for 250hp. You need some sort of TUNING, and a fuel pressure regulator is not tuning. For the price you'd pay to get a rrfpr tuned, you'd have spent enough for a ecu. They're hard to tune, throw another variable in the mix, and suck. So, stop trying to make excuses for spending the money and accept the fact you've wasted it.
-Jeff

manifolds (feel free to steal the list and add more)

etdracing http://www.etdracing.com/manifold/manifold6.html
revhard http://www.revhard.com/castmanifolds.html
phat ka-t http://www.phatka-t.com/s13manifold.htm
ssautochrome check ebaymotors
jsgtools kit http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/index2.html
iap http://www.import-autoperformance.co...ds_access.html

I know some of you guys are tapping into the block for the oil return line. If anyone could get a how-to, or even just a pic of where-to, that would be awesom.

SSauto manifold - http://www.planb-attack.com/kyle/group-buy.htm

When you buy a kit like the Fmax(turbonetics) or Greddy, what is the ratio on the RRFPR?

I would think adding a RRFPR in a 1:1 ratio to any kit would ease in the tuning department. Correct me if i am wrong, but for ever 1 psi of boost the fpr goes up 1 psi. In turn when tuning you are not having to sort of max out the piggy back at each rpm.

who is? I've never heard of that. oil pan, yes. block, no. Oil feed comes from the block as stated in my above post. Is that what you were thinking of?

If you are thinking of supply, it's a big round sensor that screws into the block just below the oil filter. It has one wire going into the end of it. you can't miss it if you look for it.

yes, I am talking about oil return into the block. I forget if it was here or FA that everyone was talking about it. Well, anyone here?

why would you do that? what is more effective about it than returning into the oil pan? I fail to see how it would be more beneficial than returning to the oil pan.

I've never read about it here but I saw Greaser talking about it on KA-T.org. I think he's a member of FA also. He does it on all of his motors now. He drills a hole in the block, welds a AN fitting to the block and uses stainless lines. This alleviates fixing lines and checking them for leaks. It's also more resistant to heat, oil, etc. It also seals easier and it's definitely gonna be higher than the level of the oil in the pan.

Bryan

it was in a magazine tech article. it had a silver mkiv on the cover. one of the more ricier mags

edit. modified mag around jan o4.

Thanks guys, I'll go bug Greaser at FA.

bov
 

HKS Super blow. Great for open atmo. bov. seals nice and tite at idle no staling once in a blue moon a little flame (it is a push/pull design bov so T off one vacume line to the big nipple and the little nipple on the back side.) Thou most of the HKS bov you can run open atmo. with no problems

Blow by MAF had great throttle response, nothing negitive

Pull Thru MAF recomend 12-18" of pipe from maf to turbo, great idle, perfect fuel pressure reading

Recomend changing out the pvr valve, seen a few of those go up which in turn less lifespan on piston rings

Ka24de sick motor!

I dont know if this has been asked already but can the 95-98 turbo kits fit the 91-93 s13?

What about the SSA manifold? It states it's for the 94+ kade, will this manfold work on 91-93 ka's??

It'll be another week or week and a half before I can commit a couple hours to these threads. Until then, keep adding info!
For the two above. 94 = s13 convertable = s13 engine. Now. SSA sucks, their SSAutoCrack manifolds suck, and if they don't realize '95 is the beginning of s14 with a different engine bay, or that by including '94 it infers fitment to '91+, they're retarded. I'm sure someone would have corrected them by now...
-Jeff

Here's my ideal KA setup.. I'm actually building this right now..

S13 KA24DE motor
Arias 8.5:1 pistons
Pauter forged rods
JWT cams/springs
ARP studs
metal headgasket
Custom sheetmetal intake manifold
Garrett GT30R (.82 A/R)
Custom equal length stainless manifold (316L schedule 40 weld L's)
3" dp and exhaust
Enthalapy (formerly of Secret Services) tuned ECU
72lb injectors
Z32 MAF
Custom billet twin feed fuel rail
Twin Walbro pumps (just in case.. ;))

All the other mods... intercooler, piping, blah.. blah.. you know the rest..

Travis

a quick question.... besides upgrading the fuel pump, injectors, ect, is there any major change you have to make to the car after installing the turbo, such as ECU settings ect?

Yes, along with what you said you should have a way to control the fuel. Such as an ECU (Enthalpy, JWT, etc.), S-AFC, stand alone (AEM, Tec3, etc.). The ecu and stand alone will also control advance and retard, along with higher resolution, so they'd be the better choice.

Enthalapy > everyone

I don't realy think that Scott's tuning ability is above Clark's.. Seriously.. think about it. Clark has been tuning Nissan cars/trucks for 20 years. They do work for Nissan Motorsports and Nissan Corporate.. at least a few projects a year that no one even knows about. Clark's knowledge in camshaft development and engine tuning theory is phenominal. I talked to him last week about the big hoo-rah on Fresh Alloy about the JWT versus Enthalapy ECU comparision.. He laughed about it.. and said.. well I would hope that any competant tuner would be able to get more power out of a given setup if they sat there and tweaked on it. Also, not every setup is the same.. Different bends in piping affect flow over the MAF sensor... differences in fuel pressure.. timing.. etc.. All of this stuff adds up.. so Clark DOES tune conservatively. I don't blame them.. When you tune to the edge, and mass produce it.. things can go wrong in a hurry. We're not just talking about a few ECU's here and there... JWT turns out hundreds/thousands of these things. Liability is a big issue.. so, it pays to be conservative.

And I'm NOT taking away from Scott's tuning ability... He's very good at what he does. But, to say that he's better than Clark... just isn't true. Matter of fact.. Scott is going to help tune our newest 500whp Spec V project. Since our customer lives in Tampa.. this will be convenient. :) If I were closer to CA.. Clark would be helping. I trust BOTH of thier tuning ability.. But to say that one is better than the other.. just isn't fair.

Travis

Oh my god. I didn't just read this shit on Tampa Racing. Now that you're on my forum, the FAQ will not turn into a debate. Make a different thread if that's what gets your rocks off.
Scott said there were only slight differences in a chip he'd ship out versus that ecu he dyno'd. 40hp is not "slight differences". 10-15.. maybe 20rwhp would be a margin of safety. 40rwhp gain over JWT is rediculous.
You brought up this camshaft design shit in TR too. Here, again, we're not talking about camshafts. Or who gives better blowjobs. Or who has the darker eyes. Wow. He can design a cam. But apparently can't or won't tune an ecu for power. 10.5:1 from the JWT ecu I got can be construed as "Safe Tuning." To me it's a waste. A waste of gas, a waste of power, and a sheer waste of money. JWT has no customer support, and charges to retune. Scott is readily available, remembers who he's talking to (as opposed to my "Hey I have a problem." "Ok. Open the ECU and tell me the numbers." "Ok. I got the numbers.. 46xcx20dcxz." "Who are you?"), and doesn't *afaik* charge to retune. I don't care about how many ECUs they sell. Maybe they forgot what customer service is, or maybe it's just another case of "Bigger isn't better."
How about the use of a Cobra MAF? It's a ploy for JWT to make money imo. There is no reason to use a shitty MAF like a cobra, which a) is hard to make piping for, and b) maxes at 350hp. How do they get it past 350hp? By using a splitter in the ecu. When a z32 maf is great to 545hp, and the ecu reads true, why write programs and only sell the cobra maf? $$$.
So here we have price. Scott wins. Customer service. Scott wins. Power. Scott wins. Fuel economy. Scott wins. About the only thing JWT can be thanked for is pioneering this.
And in a year, if someone bothers to seek out and tally the blown motors attributed to Scott and JWT, I will bet $5 that the two ecus will be within 10% of eachother. Most people blow their motors due to a corner cut. Not the ecu program. So losing so much power, so much gas mileage to prevent only a handfull of ecu-related motor deaths is not worth it.
How about this. If JWT is great, why don't they come out with a 2nd program? One oriented towards power and economy rather than safety. I didn't half-ass my setup. I don't want a program written for those who do, and I want my 40rwhp back.
-Jeff

I'm sorry what I posted upsets you so much... I thought it was rather positive for Scott and JWT both. I am not "up JWT's ass".. matter of fact.. Scott is going to be tuning a few ECU's for me.. and helping tune a turbo Spec V for me as well. I am simply saying that the tuning ability of each of these people.. is great. If that upsets you so much.. then you need to have your head examined..

And you don't need to play "big bad moderator".. There's no need to disrespect me just because you have those powers. I didn't attack you.. or your credibility.. so I don't appreciate you doing it to me. It makes you look ignorant, honestly.

Big bad moderator? Your lack of control (and others who kept up the arguement) sent Scotts harmless post down the shitter, and Scott locked it. I don't want this crapped up with bullshit until I get free time and can prune/add info.
I'm not upset, other than the fact I already brought this book-of-a-post up on Tamparacing, and it apparently didn't even make you think about it. You are simply posting the same stuff you had before. The only thing in my post that can be construed as "disrespect" is when I said "We aren't talking about camshafts.. or anything else. Simply ECU tuning here." Clark may be a great guy. That's well and fine. He may design badass cams. Hell, I'm running JWT cams and waiting for my cam gears. The cam gears could be a bit better, ala AEM with sliding adjustment, rather than tooth by tooth, but it's not a gigantic deal. What is, however, is the subject of the debate, and the 40hp gained by an ecu that "only has a couple changes over something I'd [Scott] would ship out." I feel that I provided enough first-hand knowledge and examples in my post. And since you're friends with Clark, why don't you ask him to make better tunes. Do you know how much money they would make by offering a "race tune" or something along those lines. Pick up 20hp, and still have a 20hp safety margin. Slightly more agressive timing. I understand that JWT was the first to write these programs. When the first SR swaps were being done, JWT KA ecu burn to the rescue. When the first turbos were blowing up KAs. JWT ecus to the rescue. But to have what seems to be a dinosaur of a program running these cars that are no longer shady-tree mechanic turbo kits. We now have 10 turbo kits. 3 or 4 equal length manifolds. Basic ways that are tried and true to make power. JWT could take a couple people's cars and write better programs. Put a warning on them that says "Should only be installed on well-working motors, not responsible for blown motors, ect" and sell them. If I didn't live in Tampa, and JWT came out with a new program, I'd be the first to pay $200 or $300 for a reburn that would net nearly 20hp.
I didn't mean to come out on the attack, and in my eyes, still don't see it that way. I was simply saying that this needs to be in a different thread if you'd like to debate the merits of JWT and Scott. And as you can see, I'm the first to debate someone.
-Jeff

Hey wassup guys, still new to this engine stuff but not to the whole 240 scene. I was going with a ca18det but a buddy of mine made me realize that the ka has better torque. And don't we all love more torque. So I start doing my research on what would be needed to be done to get 300whp. From what I found, I understand that I would be good with rods, pistons, turbo, ecu, standalone, fuel pump, catch can, injectors, z32 maf, and some cams. Please let me know if I missed something. Now I was wondering which z32 maf. The turbo model? Again I don't know much about this! I know it's the upper. Upper, plenum, turbo? or Upper, plenum, exc. turbo? Pipe or no pipe? I did a search on http://www.car-parts.com and got different options which I don't know much of. I also don't know which pistons and rod are good. I found some nismo pistons and rods don't know if those would be the ones I need. I know which turbo to go with I believe it's a t3. I'm a little confused with the whole standalone thing. Sounds like the standalone is like a workaround the ecu, am I correct?

Please only reply with helpful tips!

Edit:
Just saw this post on standalone #/f/showthread.php?t=63874

very helpfull resource here http://ka-t.org/ipw-web/bulletin/bb/ especially since you're new to this stuff.

I wasn't trying to be disrespectful to anyone.. That was never my intent.. Go and read my post.. It's very neutral. Which is why I got upset about your post after what I posted. I wasn't trying to argue with anyone.. just having a discussion.

I agree, that JWT is very conservative. However, just keep in mind, that we are talking about 2 different flow meters.. which respond dramatically to bends in piping.. and airflow. The Cobra MAF is crappy.. I think the reason they chose to use it.. is because it's fairly cheap brand new.. Much cheaper than a Z32 MAF. However, they do have a Z32 MAF program out, and they push it hard.. versus the Cobra MAF program. Every car that I've ever used a Cobra MAF on.. sucked. It had idle issues, and lacked power. So, there may be some issue with that..

I talked to Clark about redoing some of the programs.. and he agrees. Matter of fact.. in the next few months, he will be using Kojima's turbo SE-R to redo the 50, 72 and test the 96lb program(s) out. I like thier 370cc 4-bar setup though.. bored out stock MAF sensor, with 58psi base pressure on the 370's. 300whp on 370's safely. :) That program does work realy well.. I realy do hope that they get these programs worked out.. I know for now.. I am letting Scott tune my ECU's for me.. 40whp is a lot..

Travis

Cool. Sounds like we're on the same level. Have them rewrite KA-T programs too, not just FWD SR ;)
-Jeff

I'm sure we're very much alike... I honestly didn't mean anything bad.. I hardly ever start trouble on the net.. I do like to debate things though. Clark is just in over his head... He knows that some of these programs need to be addressed. They just can't get to it all.. I can honestly say that they work about 10-12 hours a day over there. It's hard to get ahold of Clark because he's always stuck behind a soldering iron or a computer screen. I can't even get to him unless it's afterhours. Sucks... and they have so much tallent/skill.. they just can't keep up. I know the feeling..

Travis

ok.. i have a decent question i suppose...
now i know the maf can be put after the turbo .. but how bad is it? and what would need to be changed? like i've seen on some of the is300 turbo kits.. they just put the maf in the charged pipe.. isnt it going to throw off the maf or will it become more precise?

Great question!
That's called blow-through maf, as opposed to pull-through like we all use. Pull-thru is when air is pulled by the motor, or the turbo. Blow through is only done on boosted engines.
These setups seem to be hit-or-miss as far as functionallity. In theory, if you setup a blow-thru and tuned it, it would work wonderfully. The main advantages of this type of MAF is that you can run open-atmosphere blow off valve without the instant-richness that is associated with a pull-through setup. This is because the air in a pull-thru is metered, compressed, and put in the intake piping. The BOV dumps it, but the motor is ready for all that air, and adds fuel. With a blow-thru, the air isn't metered until further down the charge pipes (the closer to the TB, the better to an extent), and bieng vented through the BOV won't affect the a/f ratios. Another advantage is that you can eliminate alot of intake piping and couplings associated with the pull-through maf infront of the turbo.
Disadvantages are making piping for a 80mm z32 or slightly larger cobra maf. The z32 maf I would expect to explode under pressure, because it's very thin, brittle plastic. The Cobra MAF is 3.5" inlet, and 3" outlet, which makes setting up the piping a bitch.
-Jeff

just something to add because it wasnt in this thread:

stock compression is 9.5:1 on the KA24DE motor, boost to 12-13psi is fine, but going to 15psi is doable but with good tuning, past that point is kinda dangerous on pumpgas...

:)

you need to research more before even thinking about putting a turbo on your car. You cant get a ecu AND a standalone....and stay away from standalones until you have some tuning experience

i was reading your stage information but wasn't sure whether stage 3 should require a build up.

i'll be running 50lb injectors/to4e turbo/z32 maf/enthalpy ecu - not sure whether my engine needs a build up for 10-12 psi. thanks

i too wonder if that is required or not

This is reasonable enough. A shop hit 401hp on a stock motor. TY hit 18psi and 360 (or so) wheel hp. Many people plug in a JWT ecu and boost to 12-15psi. And Scotts ecu > JWT.
-Jeff

exhaust manifolds/turbo combos
 

I searched everywhere here on Zilvia and havent found this info.
I finally purchased a turbo (T3 from a volvo 740 AR 42 compressor and AR 63 exhaust) and now I am searching for manifolds

I just want to mount my turbo so I dont really care (dont know the advantages if any) if its top mount or bottom mount. Also I have read about all the SS auto crap manifolds and dont really want to throw my $$ away.
I checked with boost desings but their answers dont really tell me much about fitment.
The project is for a street driven car, no track use whatsoever, pump gas and a 7~10psi max (but looking more toward a max of 7 psi).
I plan to install 370cc injectors, walbro or 300zxTT fuel pump and tune them with either an SAFC or Emanage (even a Accel DFI or FAST computer)
Looking for a budget setup that tops 1500 or so.
What do you guys think?
thanks
193 DOHC soon to be turbo

RevHard is proven. I have a buddy selling a used FMax manifold (and I'll lend my reputation to him).
And the SSA isn't bad from what I've seen. TNathe on here has the top mount, and no problems yet. The bottom mount has been redesigned and is supposed to be better.
-Jeff

also boostdesigns has a great manifold in the works check out ka-t.org for more info

Ok everybody says to use a z32 MAF with a SAFC for proper tunning (at least I am going that way)
Checking on Ebay, ther is 2 models of Z32 MAF, one ending in N60 and the other one in N62

there is a difference between the two
Can I use any one, what settings are for each one
I saw the connector config on a post, but for what MAF is?
As for NA~soon to be turbo. Can I install a Z32 with SAFC before going turbo, test,tune in NA.

As for parts, I have
Volvo T3 turbo (will post pics later)
JGS top manifold

what fuel pump? walbro or z32?
Will get 370cc fuel injectors (will Sr and RB are the same?)
As of now I already spent 350.00 and I am looking for a 5~10 max boost.

The MAFS needs to be the one that ends in N62, i dont know where the other one is from. Maybe a Z31. I got mine directly from a z32.

As for fuel pumps, just get a walbro, brand new is ~90-100, you cant beat that. Is this for a s13 or S14? If it is for a S14 there is only one place that i know of that sell the correct kit for the S14 fuel pump, http://ftfmotorsports.com/1924255lphhi.html , Thats the place. It's a little pricey, but you wont starve the motor if you are near empty.(info from FA faqs)

That will be a S13
I was checking the turbo exhaust housing I notice some small cracks around the stock wastegate port. Although very small,dunno if that will be detrimental in anyway.
Also I heard that some guys are using external wastegates as blow off valves. What benefit, if any, does that?
I may need to relocate the MAF (for simplicity sakes) so is a blown thru setup, any tips on this. I have searched here but havent seen any other benefit other than the simplicity of the piping.
I will post pics of turbo crackso you guys can check them out

Why would you use an external wastegate for a blow off? That is not its purpose. Use a wastegate as a wastegate, use a bov for a bov. Simple as that.

This question was asked, and answered in a different form then I was looking for earlier. There are plenty of s14 turbos out there, boost designs, hks, xs, and elcheapo ebay kit. I drive a '90 s13 with a ka24de swapped into it. Now, the only issue making the s14 turbo not work with a s13 is clearace issues with the engine bay (atleast that's what I gathered from the earlier post). I got advice on another forum to piece together my own turbo frankenstein style. I have read atleast 7 threads on how turbos work, the cycles of turbo etc etc. I know enough about how turbos work, but I have no way to be sure I have the ability/knowledge to piece together my own turbo. With my luck I would forget something, and get bad rodknock, or blow my motor.

* Would I be able to buy a turbo kit for the s14, and buy some parts to elimintate clearance issues?
* What are all the parts I'd need to frankenstein a kit, and where can I buy each piece?
* Is it more cost effective to swap in a jdm motor (sr20 or ca18) then to turbo my ka?

I do not aspire to gain insane boost levels simply peicing together a makeshift el cheapo kit. I just want a base to build off, to get started. So I don't need the best crap on to start out, but I don't want to sacrifice every ounce of quality to put a kit together for $700. I know tuning is expensive. Thank you, and flame if you must, just a boost n00b with a question.

Goto page one, and see DoriftoSlut's post. He lists all the parts there. Just read. I dont think you should have any fitment problems because the 91+ s13s came with a dohc. I've seen people run the SSA T25 manifold on a DOHC s13 and the JGS manifold with a t3/t4 without any problems. I'd recommend you buy just piece together the parts, and do lots of research. www.ka-t.org is a great place for more info.

ok so i was thinking of running emange when i do my turbo setup, but can i get away with just an apexi afc? i was gunna use a t25 turbo from a sr20, walbro fuel pump, injectors from a rx-7 (550cc i think. i know its those are to big but im getting em for free),i will doing matience on the car soon with a 300zx fuel filter and taking care of the spark. will that be a safe setup with a smic from a sr20 also? what kind of power can i expect? i have done my research and just finializing plans and getting a plan before i start purchasing. i will be using the ka24e :yum:

Yes, a SAFC will work. That setup sounds good, cheap, and simple. Expect about [email protected] ~7psi. I dont think going higher than 7psi will be a good idea on a stock smic.

Timing Retard
 

I read on the KA-t forum that for every psi you should retard half a degree. Which brings me to my next question.I plan on 7 psi with an E-manage 370cc, walbro and T-28 from S14 etc. So base timing is 20 degrees right how do I retard timing to be 16 degrees?, and is anyone here running the hacked maf from the 240sx? I thought our stock maf was good to like 10 psi ? Just LMK.
Thanx

There are a couple people running hacked mafs on this board. The way you retard timing is through the distributor. Loosen all 3 bolts holing the distributorand then unplug the TPS. Get a timing light. Search a little theres a write up somewhere here.

Ka24de
 

Aem
 

AEM just came out with their new stand alone plug and play computer for the S-14. I have it on my list of things to get for my car. I plan on turbo charging the stock ka24de. I have seen them handle 300hp to the wheels no problem with high mileage.

I am not sure what size turbo I will go with yet but I want to run an external waste gate. What is a good turbo to start out with?

isn't the standalone AEM unit a bit excessive for 300whp? wouldn't an apexi s-afcII work just as good for your needs and be a helluvalot cheaper?

ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs...
the map sensor kicks but..
also. i ran an arc fmic for a s13 sr20det
and it bolts up great...
just needed to modify the turbo outlet side other than that it fit on intake manifold pretty well..

Thats my post on Dorifto's computer.
Lindsay hates KA's. :fawk:

Emanage info is up for you people that don't like JWT ecu's or Safc's... (seperate thread)
HERE


Stand alone is ALWAYS a good idea. If you have the money for tuning and what not. You get complete and total control of the motor and its functions and that cannot be matched by any piggyback.

300RWHP can easily be done on a piggyback or a standalone.
Although the timing issues with a piggyback make standalone a little better option.

I choose Enthalpy ECU tuning...

I am currently rebuilding a KA24E to be turboed. So far I have started on the cylinder head and for anybody interested SI Valves has some good valve terrain components for both KA24DE and KA24E as well as many other applications.

I am using the "Swirl Polished" performance series valves. They have an undercut stem, Chromed stems & Stellite tips as well as fully swirl polished. Thier Manganese-Bronze Valve Guides are also high quality and awesome guides.

The web site is: http://www.sivalves.com/home.html

swaping plenums
 

Stop fucking asking questions in these threads.
-Jeff

Stop fucking selling things in this thread.
-Jeff

THIS THREAD IS FOR ANSWERS TO QUESTIONS ONLY! IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION, MAKE A THREAD IN THE FORUM!
-Jeff

wow sweet, i like this faq

I'm a fucking idiot who can't read, and needs to be ridiculed publicly. Maybe, at some point in the future, I will cease to suck, and comprehend gigantic bold letters before making a post.
P.S. I suck.

read TWO POSTS above you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey Jeff, how about a SOHC KA-T Sticky?

Just for me, pretty please? :wiggle:

These are the Prerequisites to building a DOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband guage(typical A/F guage from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.



Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Turbo (T25)
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body

Fuel Control:
FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.
SR 370cc Injectors. These can be found at places found at the bottom)
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage


Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.


Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)
Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.

Fuel Control
SR 370cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM

Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.

Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.

Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.

Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.

Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open.
FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core.
Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though.
Exhaust 3"

Block Internals
At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so.
Forged Rods
Forged Pistons
Stock Crank
Plus your typical rebuild items.


Fuel Control
Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel.
720cc Injectors.
Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.

Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard.

Turbo Manifold
Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered.
Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel.
FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range.
Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels
Exhaust 3" or larger

Fuel Control
720cc-1600cc Injectors
Standalone Fuel Management
Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow.
Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring.
Dyno tuning is very valuable.

Block Internals
Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list
Cams (per your discretion)
Build your head as well
Valve Springs
Valve Retainers
ARP Head/Main Studs
Cometic Headgasket or similar


Absolute turbo necessities...amongst the aforementioned goodies above.

Oil Lines (Picture of good return location)
http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...oilpanbung.jpg

Boost gauge

Here's lists of aftermarket products that are currently on the market

Turbo Build Parts:

Turbo Manifold (Exhaust Manifold)


Ground Zero Motorsports

http://www.importwerx.com/PIC/KAmani.jpg

Full Race

http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...d_fullsize.jpg

Peak Boost (release date TBD)

Revhard

Turbo240.com

http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...fold10-med.jpg

JGS Precision

Realnissan.com

Import-AutoPerformance.com

http://home.att.net/~MabuhayCarlos/IAP1b.jpg

Nizzx.com

http://www.nizzx.com/Turbo%20compone...0KA24E%205.JPG

SSAutochrome (not recommended)


BOV

Tial
Greddy RS
JGS
HKS SSQV

Wastegates

Tial

http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...0/3509tial.jpg

JGS

http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...tegate-med.jpg

Turbonetics

Block Internals

Pistons: Can be accomplished one of two ways, by purchasing ones that are made for the E with their intended compression ratio. The other is to use DE pistons and subtract a full compression point to equal the difference between the E and DE head. (ie 9:1 DE pistons will be 8:1 in an E)

Arias 8.8:1(DE)
Wiseco 9:1(DE)
JE 8.5:1
Ross 8.5:1(DE)
CP 9:1(DE)
Supertech 9:1

Rods: Any rod that will fit the bottom end of the DE will work with E as well.

Crower
Pauter
Carillo
Eagle (release tbd)

Bearings

Whatever your preference is for rebuilds. Mine is Clevite.

Headgasket

Cometic

Valves

Supertech Dual Valve Springs
SI Valves
Ferrea Valves

Retainers

Supertech Titanium Retainers

Cams

PDM Racing
Nissan Motorsports
Colt Cams
Crower
JWT Technology


Typical Injectors Used on DOHC

SR 370cc Injectors
SR 480cc Injectors (S15)

SR Upgrade Injectors are available in various sizes between 550cc-720cc as side feed, anything larger usually you'll want to switch to a top feed fuel rail and injector combination.


Injector Resistors (To alter low impedence to work with a high impedence ecu)

JWT Technology
JGS Precision

yea jeff add a sticky for the kae-t's :bowdown:

There already is. It's two posts below this!

"ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs..."

there is one problem with a map sensor that a maf doesn't have. as the engine wears, vacuum decreases, but the map sensor continues to read it the same. Your ecu can compensate to a degree, but a maf sensor is much more accurate. you wouldn't use a carbeurator on a fuel injected engine (well some people might, but you lose any chance of having mileage and performance from the same engine), so why use a map when you can use a maf?

Are you stupid? Or just too lazy to read the giant bold post.
Don't post questions unless you're posting the goddamn answer!
-Jeff

The rates on the FPR's they sell are usually adjustable from 7:1->12:1, IDK what they ship with. Stock FPR is 1:1, that's why it gets a vacuum signal.

Here, I'd like to discuss this a bit. My car.. for 10,000 miles, has pull the same -22in/Hg. Previously, for 22,000 miles, I pulled 20in/Hg. The vacuum of the engine will be the same until your timing goes out of whack.. then it will change enough to screw up your settings. There are very few other reasons that you will lose vacuum, and they are pretty serious. Like a dramatic loss of compression.
1-2in/Hg won't really mess up the tune to any significant point. And for a higher loss of vacuum, you can ALWAYS retune it.

The major disadvantages of a MAP are 1) you need a IAT sensor. We have one, so this isn't really an issue. And 2) when you do a major upgrade that affects the vacuum or changes the power band - you need to do a full retune.
-Jeff

http://www.drysump.com/pan16.htm

KA dry sump oil pan.

cobra MAF
 

One reason they may use the cobra MAF is resolution. The ECU uses A/D converters that have a certain number of "steps" per volt. SO... if the Z32 maf maxes out at say 3.2 volts (rather than 5, because they don't use the extra 200HP worth of air flow) the ecu uses only about 64% of its full scale input voltage. Now take the cobra maf, which needs to have values subtracted to stay within HP limits. The ECU now uses 100% of it's input range and either the low or high end is compromised a bit. So with the z32, unless you are making 545 HP, then you are effectively constraining the steps in airflow possible over you're entire power range and are compromising over the entire power range. The cobra however does this only at one end of the spectrum (probably the low end). In otherwords, you'll be able to more precisely tune fuel and timing for a given airflow with a cobra maf than with a z32, up to a certain power level.

What is the advantage to using this?

what ya think
 

what u think i can make
bottom end: crower rods, 9-1 supertech pistons with swain coating, slight bore 90mm, and crank and everything balanced
head: ported intake manifold, supertech valves, supertech spring and retainer, altima intake cam and 91 240sx exhause cam, 72lbs msd injectors, jwt fuel rail, aeromotive fpr, cobra mafs, jwt ecu, also a cometic head gasket
turbo stuff: t3/to4e, jgs exhaust manifold, and apexi gt spec intercooler

One question I was unable to find an answer for...

What is the thread size of oil pressure switch (to T into for an oil feed).

I was ASSuming 1/8" BSPT, but it doesn't look correct.

the oil pressure sender switch does thread into a 1/8th BSPT hole.............

I bought a new sensor and just matched it when I was fitting the oil T's. :D

turbo oil drain fitting
 

Doesn't someone make an oil pan fitting that doesn't require welding?

Yes, Russell makes a little oil return fitting kit. it is a -10an fitting with pipe thread on the other side. Includes gasket and nut. Ill double check the part number when i get to work, but im pretty sure thats it.

Found it. Russell # 697100 Oil pan flange, adapts a male -10 AN to any oil pan, zinc plated steel, includes gasket and mounting bolts

It was on their website, no pic, I will still double check at work.

JimWolfTechnologies SHOULD sell an aluminum oil pan.

can a 89-94 ka24de the ones on s13s the manual transmission fit on the new ka24de the 95-98 cause my friend is selling a manual transmission with everythin from the old ka24de n im sick of this sissy a.t. on my s14