ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs...
the map sensor kicks but..
also. i ran an arc fmic for a s13 sr20det
and it bolts up great...
just needed to modify the turbo outlet side other than that it fit on intake manifold pretty well..

Thats my post on Dorifto's computer.
Lindsay hates KA's. :fawk:

Emanage info is up for you people that don't like JWT ecu's or Safc's... (seperate thread)
HERE


Stand alone is ALWAYS a good idea. If you have the money for tuning and what not. You get complete and total control of the motor and its functions and that cannot be matched by any piggyback.

300RWHP can easily be done on a piggyback or a standalone.
Although the timing issues with a piggyback make standalone a little better option.

I choose Enthalpy ECU tuning...

I am currently rebuilding a KA24E to be turboed. So far I have started on the cylinder head and for anybody interested SI Valves has some good valve terrain components for both KA24DE and KA24E as well as many other applications.

I am using the "Swirl Polished" performance series valves. They have an undercut stem, Chromed stems & Stellite tips as well as fully swirl polished. Thier Manganese-Bronze Valve Guides are also high quality and awesome guides.

The web site is: http://www.sivalves.com/home.html

swaping plenums
 

Stop fucking asking questions in these threads.
-Jeff

Stop fucking selling things in this thread.
-Jeff

THIS THREAD IS FOR ANSWERS TO QUESTIONS ONLY! IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION, MAKE A THREAD IN THE FORUM!
-Jeff

wow sweet, i like this faq

I'm a fucking idiot who can't read, and needs to be ridiculed publicly. Maybe, at some point in the future, I will cease to suck, and comprehend gigantic bold letters before making a post.
P.S. I suck.

read TWO POSTS above you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey Jeff, how about a SOHC KA-T Sticky?

Just for me, pretty please? :wiggle:

These are the Prerequisites to building a DOHC Turbo. Together we will go through typical setups from mild to extreme to reach the power goals you desire. These are lists of typically used items that are easily attainable by the average person. All setups should have the Air to Fuel Ratio verified on a dyno with wideband or at very least on a track using an in-car wideband setup (NO watching the standard O2 signal and calling it good). If your using pump gas and seeing air to fuel ratios more lean than 11.8:1-12:1, some rethinking on the tuning/fuel setup will be needed. A narrowband guage(typical A/F guage from Autometer for instance) is not complex enough to be a real indication of the ratios inside your combustion chamber.



Very Mild Build: around 180 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Turbo (T25)
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Pipe to connect turbo to throttle body

Fuel Control:
FMU (not recommended, but doable) Raises fuel pressure per boost to make injectors flow more than normal.
SR 370cc Injectors. These can be found at places found at the bottom)
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage


Mild power adder, say you want around 200 rwhp.


Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
Small Intercooler (potentially get away with a side mount)
Turbo T25/T28/14B, etc. Smaller T2 setups. Usually will be internally wastegated.
Downpipe 2.5" is perfectly fine
Replacing the Exhaust is starting to be very necessary at this stage, so I would start to shop for that as well.

Fuel Control
SR 370cc Injectors
Apexi SAFC2
Greddy Emanage
Back off base timing at distributor or MSD BTM

Average: 300 rwhp to 350 rwhp, you have to start to expect a little more lag. This is about the perfect "street car" limit. No race gas, just good honest street car fun that is fully capable of bring home a 12 second timeslip on a good run.

Turbo Manifold
T3/T04E .50 Trim compressor, .60 trim compressor housing / Stg 3 (aka TA31) turbine wheel, .48 to .63 A/R exhaust housing. Internal wastegate optional but not recommended.
Downpipe can still be 2.5", but this is as far as I would want to push that.
Front Mount Intercooler (FMIC) It's time to upgrade to a larger front mount as the larger will push more air than the smaller sidemount can cool.

Fuel Control
550cc Injectors
SAFC2 to control your fuel injectors, along with the stock ecu.
MSD BTM At this stage I would be running the BTM to control timing retard.
Reflashed ECU-This can be a DIY thing with Megasquirt Tuning or a JWT.
Z32 Maf is required, as the stock Maf stops being able to read at around 260 rwhp.
Wideband O2 Sensor should be installed for tuning.

Block Internals
This is where I would start to consider it necessary to replace you pistons.

Above Average: 350 rwhp to 425 rwhp

Turbo Manifold
Blow Off Valve
T3/T04E 50 Trim .48/.63 or slightly larger turbo, this is where I would start to make the switch up to an external wastegate. You have the option to reroute it back into the exhaust, or merely "dump" it out into the open. "Dump" is usually a mini exhaust in the form of 1.5" piping routed out to the open.
FMIC Larger is starting to be necessary. Typical for setups from here on, are 12"x24"x3" for the core.
Downpipe 3", at this point I would switch to the larger downpipe. You can probably get away with it at 2.5", but it will be causing a little bit of backpressure. Moving to 3" piping as quickly as possible is what you want though. Usually it is necessary to have the first bend 2.5" to clear the steering shaft though.
Exhaust 3"

Block Internals
At this stage you'll want to "build" or fortify your block to better handle boost. Previous to this you can walk the line, but here and forward I find it necessary to do so.
Forged Rods
Forged Pistons
Stock Crank
Plus your typical rebuild items.


Fuel Control
Standalone fuel management is recommended at this stage in the game and is absolutely necessary at the next. These allow you control not only very large injectors, but the tuner to have complete control over both timing and fuel.
720cc Injectors.
Wideband O2 Sensor is necessary for tuning.

Wild Build: 425 rwhp to 600 rwhp. Lag is obviously going to be much more apparent, full boost isn't going to happen until around 4000-5000 rpms or so. Once spooled it will pull very hard.

Turbo Manifold
Turbo T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R seem to be the typical turbo's in the area. External Wastegate is your only option that should be considered.
Blow Off Valve You'll want a good performing more expensive blow off valve to alleviate reverted air when the throttle body closes from pushing against the compressor wheel.
FMIC the 24"x12"x3" Core's are still effective in this range.
Downpipe 3" is still capable of handling these power levels
Exhaust 3" or larger

Fuel Control
720cc-1600cc Injectors
Standalone Fuel Management
Recommeded to switch to Map instead of Maf for reading airflow.
Wideband 02 Sensor installed and wired into standalone for adjustments and monitoring.
Dyno tuning is very valuable.

Block Internals
Along with the previously mentioned internals I would add these to the list
Cams (per your discretion)
Build your head as well
Valve Springs
Valve Retainers
ARP Head/Main Studs
Cometic Headgasket or similar


Absolute turbo necessities...amongst the aforementioned goodies above.

Oil Lines (Picture of good return location)
http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...oilpanbung.jpg

Boost gauge

Here's lists of aftermarket products that are currently on the market

Turbo Build Parts:

Turbo Manifold (Exhaust Manifold)


Ground Zero Motorsports

http://www.importwerx.com/PIC/KAmani.jpg

Full Race

http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...d_fullsize.jpg

Peak Boost (release date TBD)

Revhard

Turbo240.com

http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...fold10-med.jpg

JGS Precision

Realnissan.com

Import-AutoPerformance.com

http://home.att.net/~MabuhayCarlos/IAP1b.jpg

Nizzx.com

http://www.nizzx.com/Turbo%20compone...0KA24E%205.JPG

SSAutochrome (not recommended)


BOV

Tial
Greddy RS
JGS
HKS SSQV

Wastegates

Tial

http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...0/3509tial.jpg

JGS

http://northwestnissans.com/photopos...tegate-med.jpg

Turbonetics

Block Internals

Pistons: Can be accomplished one of two ways, by purchasing ones that are made for the E with their intended compression ratio. The other is to use DE pistons and subtract a full compression point to equal the difference between the E and DE head. (ie 9:1 DE pistons will be 8:1 in an E)

Arias 8.8:1(DE)
Wiseco 9:1(DE)
JE 8.5:1
Ross 8.5:1(DE)
CP 9:1(DE)
Supertech 9:1

Rods: Any rod that will fit the bottom end of the DE will work with E as well.

Crower
Pauter
Carillo
Eagle (release tbd)

Bearings

Whatever your preference is for rebuilds. Mine is Clevite.

Headgasket

Cometic

Valves

Supertech Dual Valve Springs
SI Valves
Ferrea Valves

Retainers

Supertech Titanium Retainers

Cams

PDM Racing
Nissan Motorsports
Colt Cams
Crower
JWT Technology


Typical Injectors Used on DOHC

SR 370cc Injectors
SR 480cc Injectors (S15)

SR Upgrade Injectors are available in various sizes between 550cc-720cc as side feed, anything larger usually you'll want to switch to a top feed fuel rail and injector combination.


Injector Resistors (To alter low impedence to work with a high impedence ecu)

JWT Technology
JGS Precision

yea jeff add a sticky for the kae-t's :bowdown:

There already is. It's two posts below this!

"ok... i am running the aem ems on my setup now w/ the 5 bar map sensor.. which rocks.. it means no more maf and no need to worry about all that bs..."

there is one problem with a map sensor that a maf doesn't have. as the engine wears, vacuum decreases, but the map sensor continues to read it the same. Your ecu can compensate to a degree, but a maf sensor is much more accurate. you wouldn't use a carbeurator on a fuel injected engine (well some people might, but you lose any chance of having mileage and performance from the same engine), so why use a map when you can use a maf?

Are you stupid? Or just too lazy to read the giant bold post.
Don't post questions unless you're posting the goddamn answer!
-Jeff

The rates on the FPR's they sell are usually adjustable from 7:1->12:1, IDK what they ship with. Stock FPR is 1:1, that's why it gets a vacuum signal.

Here, I'd like to discuss this a bit. My car.. for 10,000 miles, has pull the same -22in/Hg. Previously, for 22,000 miles, I pulled 20in/Hg. The vacuum of the engine will be the same until your timing goes out of whack.. then it will change enough to screw up your settings. There are very few other reasons that you will lose vacuum, and they are pretty serious. Like a dramatic loss of compression.
1-2in/Hg won't really mess up the tune to any significant point. And for a higher loss of vacuum, you can ALWAYS retune it.

The major disadvantages of a MAP are 1) you need a IAT sensor. We have one, so this isn't really an issue. And 2) when you do a major upgrade that affects the vacuum or changes the power band - you need to do a full retune.
-Jeff

http://www.drysump.com/pan16.htm

KA dry sump oil pan.

cobra MAF
 

One reason they may use the cobra MAF is resolution. The ECU uses A/D converters that have a certain number of "steps" per volt. SO... if the Z32 maf maxes out at say 3.2 volts (rather than 5, because they don't use the extra 200HP worth of air flow) the ecu uses only about 64% of its full scale input voltage. Now take the cobra maf, which needs to have values subtracted to stay within HP limits. The ECU now uses 100% of it's input range and either the low or high end is compromised a bit. So with the z32, unless you are making 545 HP, then you are effectively constraining the steps in airflow possible over you're entire power range and are compromising over the entire power range. The cobra however does this only at one end of the spectrum (probably the low end). In otherwords, you'll be able to more precisely tune fuel and timing for a given airflow with a cobra maf than with a z32, up to a certain power level.

What is the advantage to using this?

what ya think
 

what u think i can make
bottom end: crower rods, 9-1 supertech pistons with swain coating, slight bore 90mm, and crank and everything balanced
head: ported intake manifold, supertech valves, supertech spring and retainer, altima intake cam and 91 240sx exhause cam, 72lbs msd injectors, jwt fuel rail, aeromotive fpr, cobra mafs, jwt ecu, also a cometic head gasket
turbo stuff: t3/to4e, jgs exhaust manifold, and apexi gt spec intercooler

One question I was unable to find an answer for...

What is the thread size of oil pressure switch (to T into for an oil feed).

I was ASSuming 1/8" BSPT, but it doesn't look correct.

the oil pressure sender switch does thread into a 1/8th BSPT hole.............

I bought a new sensor and just matched it when I was fitting the oil T's. :D

turbo oil drain fitting
 

Doesn't someone make an oil pan fitting that doesn't require welding?

Yes, Russell makes a little oil return fitting kit. it is a -10an fitting with pipe thread on the other side. Includes gasket and nut. Ill double check the part number when i get to work, but im pretty sure thats it.

Found it. Russell # 697100 Oil pan flange, adapts a male -10 AN to any oil pan, zinc plated steel, includes gasket and mounting bolts

It was on their website, no pic, I will still double check at work.

JimWolfTechnologies SHOULD sell an aluminum oil pan.

can a 89-94 ka24de the ones on s13s the manual transmission fit on the new ka24de the 95-98 cause my friend is selling a manual transmission with everythin from the old ka24de n im sick of this sissy a.t. on my s14