![]() |
Got a 240sx it’s my first car I’m working on I’m replacing the gas tank which was rusted out again after I tried cleaning the rust the first time, and I just ordered new pump,sending unit, and tank, Previous owner deleted charcoal canister, I’m trying to avoid future rusting of my new parts
These are my options: 1.If I have fuel tank evap nipple>check valve>hard line that runs up To engine bay and cut where I think the charcoal canister might have been (previous owner deleted) + s14 gas cap, am I good on the explosion/implosion/rusting? 2.What if I removed the check valve, capped the line from the evap nipple and buy an s14 gas cap? Am I risking rust and issues still? 3.Can I run a hose from the evap nipple to a filter like in this thread, and buy an s14 gas cap? Or would this let moisture and things into the tank? I’m just confused but please help me if no one replies I’ll probably just go with option 1 or 2 and hope I don’t blow up or waste $1000 |
I had to do this on my old s13 because I live in the midwest so the old fuel lines got rusted out, sourced the hardlines off another s13 and make shifted my own underbody mounts. What I do with that line is let it vent to atmosphere, but I did not think about using a filter to keep debris out very good idea. Good write up always knew venting was critical, but never knew how much of a safety problem it is too.
|
Quote:
Ok, I want to make sure I do this right so I want to confirm my understanding. Venting to the atmosphere, even with a filter like the original post says, is not good. In order to properly do this, we must use a S14 fuel cap and fuel check valve that releases pressure at a certain PSI - both are needed if redundancy is desired. Is that right? If yes, what fuel check valve did you use? Do you know the PSI at which the factory valve releases pressure? |
Speaking for S13’s:
I set up SOHC’s and DOHC’s the same way when you’re stock or N/A and retaining EVAP or just trying to capture fuel vapors (some places are UBER F***ing anal about looking for this). -I run the 1/4” line from manifold to canister. (Vacuum source between throttle body and engine) -I run 5/32” line (w/ the factory restrictor installed in the line!) from any source between throttle body and MAFS. Preferably the throttle body nipple. This ensures purge during partial throttle / cruise situations as intended. —> Retain OEM check valve. I have ran multiple cars like this for 8-9 years. Once you go turbo it’s up to you what you want to do as shuttle changes must take place. What I do for simplicity is delete canister, EVAP, and all the bullshit. I utilize the existing hardline under the car, hook it up to tank vent, then at the other end I put a hose on it and either a) run it to turbo intake or b) put a filter on the end of hose and lay it REALLY close to air filter for turbo intake. Both methods work. The potential for fuel vapors to gather under hood are slim, but DO exist. I’ve ran it this way for a year or two. The other simpler option is running the filter to rear bumper or some location out from under car but preferably higher than fuel tank. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:39 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
vB.Sponsors
Copyright © 1998 - 2019, Zilvia.net™