Sr20det FAQ
 

Start it. I will delete unnecessary and off topic posts.
This thread should be something along the lines of how hard is the swap, what's required. Power level stages, build ups, cost tally, and power levels. Warnings and things to watch out for during swap, mods.
I figure this will save alot of heartache as noobs can read this thread and not post stupid questions.
-Jeff

Heavy Throttle's SR Swap Guide (best I've seen so far)
this has harness wiring, power steering issues, and troubleshooting sections as well as other very important parts about various other modifications like boost gauges and front mount intercoolers

heres a few basics...

stock boost IS 11lb's
boost w/o solenoid 7lb.
do not boost stock s13 t25 over 14lb. it's useless.
12's are possible on stock turbo

Explain. I don't get what you mean by that.

REPLACEMENT PARTS (S13 SR20DET RED/BLACK TOP ONLY, UNLESS NOTED):
Oil filter (S13 SR20DET)
15208-53J00
91-94 Sentra SE-R

(S14SR20DET)
95 Sentra SE-R

Fuel Filter
16400-00002
1990-1996 300ZX TT

Upper injector o-ring
16618-53J00
7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (small/upper)

Lower injector o-ring
16618-10V05
7/95 and newer 300ZX TT (big/lower)

o2 sensor
S13 SR20DET REDTOP: 22690-19P20 ('87 280ZX)
S13 SR20DET BLACKTOP: 95 300ZX TT

Exhaust Manifold Gasket
91-94 Sentra SE-R

4 Hole Turbo Manifold gasket / 5 Hole Turbo Extension Gasket
91-96 300ZX TT (Z32)

Fuel Injectors
91-96 Z32 300ZX TT (purple plugs; 370cc)

MAF
89-90 240SX

Timing Chain Kit
91 B13 Sentra SE-R

Belts (PS, AC, alt)
Gates K050370 Alt.
K040345 PS & most AC

Spark Plugs
91 Sentra SE-R

Water Pump
JDM SR20DET Only

Head Gasket
JDM SR20DET Only

IACV Gasket
JDM SR20DET Only

Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor:
'91-94 B13 Sentra SE-R

Throttle Position Sensor:
22620-53J00 ('91-'94 B13 Sentra SE-R)

That's all I can think of.

S14 SR20DET Nissan part numbers:

oil filter 15208-65F00
front crank seal 13510-53J10

Water Temperature Sensor
Sentra - Goes according to what year your SR is.
Differences are in 91-94 and 95-98
Sentra: 91-94 have a rectangleish plug while 95-98 have a slightly slimmer, more box looking plug.
Redtop and midyear S13 blacktops use a z32 sensor. I believe you should go by year as well if buying a Z32 sensor.
Late S13 blacktops use the Sentra sensor.
KA water temp sensor doesn't work, or at least it didn't for me. (S13 98 Blacktop)

S15 Exhaust Manifold Gasket
(S15 metal gasket vs. stock paper gasket)
Nissan Part #: 14036-75F00

The 11lbs without a solenoid thing for who wanted it explained. There is a solinoid that actuates the wastegate, but to my understanding doesn't come with the SR motorsets, because it's mounted elsewhere in the engine bay. So you'd have to get one, use a boost controller, or run the vaccum hose from the nipple on the intercooler directly to the wastegate, bypassing the valve function. Without this solenoid it should run 11lbs.

for those of you who have done you own wiring of harnesses, I have a couple of questions because I dont want to fry my electronics and have to work even more for more money,

since HT is down I cant use that right now, I foudn a way to go there but pics dont work,

wehn I splice the connectors inside the car, I cut the white one off the sr, and splice the brown one from the ka, right? this is confusing me so much because there is also a white connector on the ka, and it is the same exact connector on the sr harness, that I cut, only the wires dont match, but the wires on the brown one do.

2. the old ground wire from the battery has it grounded to the intake manifold and to the chassis, my wire is falling apart so i want to put another one i have on, can I go just directly from the battery to the intake manifold or do i also need it grounded to the chassis,

3. the ground wire that comes from the ignitor, does this ground to the chassis,


ok I know your probably sick of my questions and so am I, this is probably all the wiring questions I will have, and I know alot of people here have done their own wiring so it shouldnt be too hard to answer right? thanks for any help though.

No its still 7psi. Think about it: A valve that restricts air to the wastegate can only raise the boost not lower it. So if the stock wastegate was really set to 11psi, theres no way a solenoid would bring it down to 7psi. The purpose of the solenoid is slightly faster spool up, by preventing the wastegate from opening part way at lower boost.

Bingo, you win.

That's exactly why I asked him what he talking about... didn't make any sense at all.

Pepperoni: Can you be a bit more specific on the water temp sensor interchangeablility? Not only for the FAQ, but also for myself... I think I may need one and I can't figure out which one I need from your post (Z32? It's for a redtop :P)

Also does anyone know about fpr interchange? Seems like the KA one would fit, just that the nipple for the vac line is on a different side...

No lines going to the wastegate would mean that the turbo isn't regulated, and would run to 15-18psi, wherever the turbo stops spooling at on an SR. It would go way out of efficiency and cause detrimental damage.
-Jeff

TPS and/or Temp. Sensor interchange, anyone? let's not hijack this.

- this is general for 89-98 Nissan but most apply to the SR20 motor.
- to set car into diag. mode, with the key in the "ON" position, turn potentometer screw on ECU fully clockwise, then turn it fully counterclockwise. The LED on the ECU will begin to flash.
- first digit = LONG blink; second digit = SHORT blink (ex: 1... 1... 1... 1... then 1-1-1 equals 43 = TPS)

Error Codes Biatch
11 Crank Angle Sensor/Camshaft Position Sensor.
12 Air Flow Meter/Mass Air Flow Sensor.
13 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
14 Vehicle Speed Sensor.
21 Ignition Signal.
22 Fuel Pump.
23 Idle Switch.
24 Throttle Valve Switch.
25 Idle Speed Control Valve.
28 Cooling Fan Circuit.
31 ECM.
32 EGR Function.
33 Heated Oxygen Sensor.
34 Knock Sensor.
35 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor.
36 EGR Control-Back Pressure Transducer.
37 Knock Sensor.
38 Right hand bank Closed Loop (B2).
41 Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
42 Fuel Temperature Sensor.
43 Throttle Position Sensor.
45 Injector Leak.
47 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
51 Injector Circuit.
53 Oxygen Sensor.
54 A/T Control.
55 No Malfunction.
63 No. 6 Cylinder Misfire.
64 No. 5 Cylinder Misfire.
65 No. 4 Cylinder Misfire.
66 No. 3 Cylinder Misfire.
67 No. 2 Cylinder Misfire.
68 No. 1 Cylinder Misfire.
71 Random Misfire.
72 TWC Function right hand bank.
73 TWC Function right hand bank.
76 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
77 Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor Circuit.
82 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
84 A/T Diagnosis Communication Line.
85 VTC Solenoid Valve Circuit.
86 Fuel Injection System Function right hand bank.
87 Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
91 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
94 TCC Solenoid Valve.
95 Crankshaft Position Sensor.
98 Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
101 Front Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit right hand bank.
103 Park/Neutral Position Switch Circuit.
105 EGR and EGR Canister Control Solenoid Valve Circuit.
108 Canister Purge Control Valve Circuit.

ok...my official correction of my previous statement. After checking the lines more closely and doing more research...hooking the line from the wastegate to tb will get you 7lb. hooking the wastegate to the solenoid then to tb does what has been said....it actually restricts the airflow and brings you to 11lb....no vac on wastegate does indeed give infinite boost (not good)....thank you guys for questioning me and helping me learn and not treating me like a dumbass...you guys are awesome....yet again proves....this is a great board! Keep up the good work!

Oops, sorry kazuo, didn't keep up with the thead.
Water Temperature Sensor (cont..)
I know for sure the sentra one works because thats the one I used for my S13 blacktop. Since i have a 1998 blacktop, i used a 1998 Sentra temp. sensor. Im not sure if redtops and blacktops are the same when it comes to temp sensors, but you can try out a sentra one. According to a friend online, he said he used a Z32 sensor for his redtop; and it goes with year as well, like i did with the sentra sensor. So, you should be able to use a Z32 '91 temp sensor for your redtop. KA's may be the same for redtops, but thats only a guess; KA was different for mine. I can only assure you about Sentra sensor for S13 blacktops.

For the water temp sensor, atleast for my S14, have to use the stock KA sensor off my 97 KA. I forgot bout this and my temp was pegged at H for awhile till i talked to Phase2 and they told me to swap out the sensor off my KA.

S13 SR into S14: http://camel-towing.com/docs/S13%20S...into%20S14.htm
SR20DET Technical Info: http://sr20det.nismo.org/srtech.htm
Intercooler pressure testing: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Lots of MISC crap: http://www.sr20tuning.com/modifications.html

that wiring harness link will probably save me alot of time, why pay someone 200 and wait 3 weeks when you can do it yourself =]

S14 SR into S14
http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1

I saved all the pictures from the scan but I don't have a host for it yet. I will post pictures of them once I host them.

For Canadian owners, we did not get the 91 Sentra SE-R.

When you go to get parts (IE oil filter, plugs, etc) ask for 91 Nissan NX2000
It has the same sr20de.

E5 is from a 94-96 180sx black top 5 speed
E6 is from a 94-96 180sx blacktop automatic
WC is from a 94-98 S14 Silvia
62 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia 5 speed
61,63 is from a 91-93 180sx or S13 Silvia automatic
J4 is from a 97-98 180sx Type X 5speed

looks like i got the wrong ECU with my motor. i got a red text ECU with #60. what car is that for?.

Nissan Part Numbers:

Connecting Rod Bearing: 12111-1N500
Crankshaft Bearing: 12207-60J00
Front main seal: 13510-53J00
Rear Main seal: 12279-0M300
Piston Ring set: 12033-53J10
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (S13): 14036-53J10
Exhaust Manifold Stud: 14065-75F00
Intake Manifold Gasket (S14): 14035-5U000
Intake Manifold Gasket (S13): 14035-53J00
Oil Strainer Gasket: 15053-1E400
Intake Valve: 13201-1E711
Exhaust Valve (Not found at Nissan): 13202-53J01
Shim: 13229-53J00
Tensionner Gasket: 13079-2J200
Intake Valve Seal: 13207-84A00
Exhaust Valve Seal: 13207-53F00
Intake/Exhaust Valve Seats: 13205-53J00
Valve cover gasket (S13): 13270-52F00
Spark Plug Well Gasket: 13271-52F00

PS: This post should be nominated for post of the year.

ECU Error Code 34
 

(This faq is for an sr20det, sr20de, ka24de, ka24e?)

If you receive ECU Error code 34, it means one of two things:

a) Bad Knock Sensor
b) Bad connection to knock sensor

Like many things, Knock Sensors can just "Go Bad". First, look for the grey conector between the 3rd and 4th intake runners, there may be two, the bigger one is the o2 sensor, the smaller one is the knock sensor. Unplug the knock sensor connector and check the wiring, likewise, follow the wiring down to under the intake manifold and feel that the wiring hasn't fallen out. Either way you're going to have to remove the knock sensor to thoroughly check. My knock sensor on my sr20det was held on by one 12mm bolt, to remove it i just reached down under the intake manifold and unbolted it, it was agonizing but it worked and i replaced the whole thing in 15 minutes. Other people would normally go from under the car and remove the starter to get to it, or remove the intake manifold. This is not compeletely necessary, but smaller hands do help. When you get the old knock sensor off look for these things:

a) Discoloration of the copper side (means its toast)
b) Frayed wires
c) any cracks in the knock sensor
d) Plug is damaged
e) not receiving enough electricity

If you see wiring problems then i suggest you fix them, plug the knock sensor back in, bolt it up, reset ECU, drive the car, and see if the error comes up again. Otherwise just replace the little demon. If you have an sr20det then go to Nissan or Napa and get the knock sensor off a 1991 Nissan Sentra SER (Sr20de), If you have a CA18det then get it off a Pulsar, KA's should be selft explanatory because they are american made. Knock sensors are not cheap, mine was $118.00 it sucks, but live with it.

Once you have the new knock sensor, replace the old one, double check wiring, bolt it back up, and reset ECU, drive car around, check ecu, if its not fixed then you have wiring issues most likely, that i can't help you with but there are ways to check the electrical charge.

Good Luck

as far as the coolant temp sensor....same part numbers from napa, autozone, and pepboys....91-93 sentra ser and 91-95 300z tt are both ECH TS5520 (from napa)...

No difference.
-Jeff

I got my turbo to hit 20-23 pounds a few times that way.
(trying to blow the motor)

Sr blocks are alum, with steel sleeves.

Sr intake manifolds vary. S13 has a long runner manifold, and s14 has a short runner. You can tell the diff, because the s13 manifold has the throttle body under the manifold, and s14 has it about even with the height of the valve cover.

Sr blocks use the upper oil pan for block reinforcement.

Sr20det motors really need an oil cooler. (track)

Oil Filter: Pull off the intake manifold support brackets under the manifold, or you will wish you never had to change your oil again.

sr20 motors dont like ka fuel filters (z32)

Dont raise the boost unless you have an aftermarket fuel pump.

Sr20det trannys are weak.

S15 trannys are even weaker.

Keep your ignitor away from heat (exhaust manifold)

When setting ignition timing with a light, timing marks on crank pully may not be accurate unless you zero the cas (cam angle sensor).

Invest in rocker arm stoppers.

T25 turbos suck.

You better do a good job rerouting the coolant line behind the head for the turbo. Because changing it while the motors in sucks.

ehh.

Sr trannys suck. Why do you think all the pro drifters use os giken gear sets. I have blown 2 trannys in half a season. Ernie fixmer blew 2 at just one formula d event.
Trannys are fine but gear sets are weak

SRs are so oil dependent it's not even funny. If you can do anything to help the motor get more oil efficiently, hold more oil, cool it down, do it.

redtop into 97
 

I'm pretty sure I have everything done so far for the swap. I'm swapping in a 89-91 early year redtop into my 97 240sx. First I swapped the Smaller black plug on my KA water temp sensor onto my sr water temp sensor. Then I swapped the 97 KA tranny speed sensor(with the red gear at the end) onto my sr20det tranny. A guy that lives near me who did the swap onto his s13 said that theres no need ot swap the sensors. As long as the sr speed sensor has a red gear at the end, it should work? Actually, he didnt even swap the temp sensor as well. could this be a redtop to s13 deal? My entire harness is done. Got the z32 fuel filter. There anything else I needa change? Thanks.

-David

Stop posting up stupid questions in the FAQ. It's for answering questions (the A and the Q), not asking. Make threads for that.
If I have to prune more posts from this FAQ, I'm going to lock it.
-Jeff

Can someone tell me what are the oil presure readings- used the search tool, got for sale threads mainly.

Idle sometimes I see 15psi, sometiems 20
mid throttle: 45-60psi
full throttle: 80-100psi.

during warmup the guage reads 45-60psi.

by the way Im useing a Megan Racing guage, it was cheap, so yea are these accurate?

fyi all motors ahould have higher oil press when cold.

A good rule of thumb is 10 Psi oil pressure for every thousand rpm.

If you have at least this then your good.
:naughty:

Just posting some things I did not see in this thread, however it may be in the links. Plz delete if overlapping.

SR = Block
20 = 2.0L Displacement
D = DOHC
E = Fuel Injected
T = Single Turbocharger

2.0L DOHC Turbo
Turbo Type: T25G
Compressor A/R: 0.80
Injector Size: 370cc
Bore x Stroke: 86.0mm x 86.0mm
Displacement: 1998cc
Performance: SR20DET:
Power (ps): [email protected] 6000 rpm
Torque (kgm): [email protected] 4000 rpm
Compression Ratio: 8.5:1
Speed Limiter:180 Kmh -112 mph
Stock Boost: 7 psi
ECU: 62 (redtop) OR E5 (blacktop). 63 (automatic) will also work.
MAFS: 89-90 240sx mafs works.
Rev Limit: 7500rpm (no need to really go over 7200)

Gear Ratios:

Gear Ratios - Manual Transmission
1st 3.321
2nd 1.902
3rd 1.308
4th 1.000
5th 0.759
Reverse 3.382
Final 4.083

S13 ECU Pinout (thanks to CM510.com)
http://www.sequence-garage.com/forum...1099324851.gif

Zenki S14 SR ECU Pinout (thanks to 200sx.org)
http://www.sequence-garage.com/forum...1099325328.gif

Classic battery area wiring diagram from heavy throttle:
http://www.sequence-garage.com/forum...1099325638.jpg

The power specs, and turbo that Sequence Garage listed are for s13 sr20det only. S14 is 220hp (I think) with a t28 turbo. The s15 is 250hp (again, I think) and uses yet another turbo.
-Jeff

S15 same turbo with cast divider wall, bigger injectors, and I think thicker beams but not sure. Both S14 and S15 blacktops have VVL.

there..fixed it for ya...would really be a fun motor if they have vvl...but sadly they dont..so dont spread incorrect info.

At the bottom of this tread they talk about bhoost for stock sr20det turbo. I have found from personnal experiance that the turbo will at least put out 1.3mb, or 18 psi, but I have stock everything, so detination was the final outcome, but it would put out more if you had bigger inj, front mount IC. I'm running it at 14 psi right now with no problems. Thats with a greddy boost controller.

Z32 NA and TT AFM look the same but are different. The difference is that the NA AFM will read up to 350hp or so, the TT one will read up to 500hp. You want the TT AFM.

your dumb as shit and your post should be removed at once, and when yours is, then mine should follow

btw I see you dont post much as youve been here quite a bit longer than your post count would show, I hope this doesnt discourage you from future posting, but I would hope you think next time before pushing bullshit into the mix.

Hey f$%K you you yanky piece of crap, when you turkey's were still running around in ka truck engine pieces of crap we'd been doing sr conversions etc here for years, (and had complete import s13 sr's here). There are 2 part numbers for Z32 AFM 1 for NA and 1 for TT. They have been tested for voltage to airflow capacity and that's the fact jack, so unless you have been involved intuning them and have the facts shut your stupid dumb shit mouth.

What's with the hate? It takes maturity to engage in intelligent discourse without namecalling. If someone says something you disagree with, make it known WITHOUT taking personal jabs. Didn't either of you two go to Kindergarten? Sheesh. :rolleyes:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/Merchan...e=22680-Z32ALL
Apparently the Z32 MAFs have the same part number and are therefore the same for both the TT and the N/A (at least for the USDM, although I highly doubt it would be different elsewhere). So calm down you two! :spank:

Oil Capacities
 

wow.. i think this is my first post ever.

This info is for the S14 blacktop motor, it's taken right out of the service manual. hope this helps some of you.


Engine Oil: (with filter change): 3 1/4 qt (3.7 L)
(w/o filter change): 3 1/8 qt (3.5 L)

Cooling System (including resevoir): 5 1/2 qt (6.2 L)

Manual Transmission: *GL-4* 4 1/4 pt (2.4 L)
Differential carrier gear oil: *GL-5* 3 1/8 pt (1.8 L)

Automatic Transmission: 7 qt (7.9 L)

Power steering 3/4 qt (0.9 L)

edit: if anyone doesnt believe this I can back it up with a pic of the page from the manual, but as you can tell I'm new and don't know how to upload pics yet... unless theres someone that can host them for me.

short block has no Head only pistons crank ect

I just found out the hard way that there is a difference between FWD and RWD seals for the SR. RWD are larger.

sr20det spark plugs are code BKR7E-11

by NGK

heres a few had to search for the clutch and main seal that any us cars have...

-Front and rear main seal = 93 sentra SER
-Stock sr clutch = 89 Nissan Maxima
-Timing chain replacement = 89 Nissan Maxima
-o2 sensor = 87 300zx turbo
-Turbo gaskets = 90-96 tt 300zx
-Exhaust/intake manifold gaskets = 93 Sentra SER


Also found out you could use a ka radiator on sr but you need a top radiator hose that would travel from the pass side to the driverside and you will need to cut the ends a bit..

you can get the hoses from the following

-02 Dodge neon L4 2.0L
-96 Buick road master limited V8 8.7L
-96 chevrolet caprice classic V8 4.3L/5.7L

The Japanese S14 and S15 turbo are basically the same. Both the compressor and exhaust housings are the same. The compressor and exhaust wheels are the same specs. The difference is that the S14 exhaust wheel is not made of the same material as the S15 exhaust wheel. I can not remember the materials, but they are NOT ceramic, they are steel alloys.

The S14 turbo in Australia is not ball bearing from what I have been told. The S15 in Australia is ball bearing though.

The spark plug seals are not the same. The S13 and S14/15 RWD SR20DET spark plug seals are JDM only.

The SR and KA bell bousing have different engine side bolt patterns.

DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD UNLESS YOU HAVE AN ANSWER TO A FAQ!

I just pruned ~40 posts from this thread, too. I'm sick of fucking babysitting these FAQs, and WILL lock them if a simple rule like "Stop asking stupid questions" can't be followed.
You have a question without an answer? Step 1. Search. Step 2. Post in the Tech section, NOT THE FUCKING ANSWER THREAD!
-Jeff

sr20det s13 in s14 coolent capacity:
"with koyo s14 radiator"

1 3/4 gallons


thats all i got...

did a search and found nothing

sr20det oil pan holds 3.5 quarts of oil but you can put in four.

>>don't know if thats a good or bad thing but i remember it being discussed.<<

do not put anymore than 3.5 quarts of oil in your sr.. the rest will be spit out by your engine through your breather valve, unless you like your intercooler and intake to have a thick oil film on the inside.

yes it will hurt your engine.

s14 sr into 96 240sx help
 

Hey, I am doing an s14 sr into s14 96 240sx and I have the complete wring harness and the jdm ecu. There are four plugs on the inside-of-the-firewall end of the harness, the ecu plug, another large plug (which is obvious where it goes so ok), and then 2 blue relay plugs. On the 240sx harness though there is one blue relay plug, and then this 8wire little white plug that attatches to a plug that seems to run to the back of the car. What to I do with this difference? I found which of the 2 relay plugs match up, but I am left with an unaccounted for relay plug on the sr harness and a empty white plug in the car. what should I do?

Those sparkplugs fit but aren't OEM and are one step colder than stock.
Be sure you regap them to 0.9mm (0.036in).

The correct OEM plugs are double platinum:
NGK PFR6B-9
And I think this is the Nissan Part Number:
22401-27N66

You can also use NGK Iridium:
BKR6EIX
BKR6EVX
BKR6EIX-P

Or traditional spark plugs like he listed:
BKR6E

You can change all those sixs to sevens to get colder plugs.
(e.g. BKR7EIX)

mod said no questions.. fuk man read..
bigass letters
DO NOT POST IN THIS THREAD UNLESS YOU HAVE AN ANSWER TO A FAQ!

-incase of hotpipe clearance issue
to add; If you want your SR hotpipe to sit LOWER(S13 SR), use a S14 turbo inlet pipe..
hotpipe /w bov sits nice and low.

s14 inlet pipe is shorter then s13 inlet pipe.

This is a diagram I made for converting your your #62 harness to work with a J4 ECU, and visca versa.

it illustrates the differences between #62, E5, and J4 ecus.very handy!

http://forums.freshalloy.com/ubbthre...b=5&o=&fpart=1

Does this thing have that solenoid?http://rhdjapan.com/images/ebaypics/...p/DSC00080.JPG

I think with the NGK plug the higher number you go the colder the plug gets. example hotter - bkr6e ; colder - bkr7e Correct me if I'm wrong guys

we've already discovered this...delete my post and his please

i have a real quick question ive been wonderin about for a long time... how much does a SR20DET weigh in a base model 240sx?(no power windows,sunroof,etc.)

thanks.

Just to add...

Z32 300ZX TT and B13 Sentra SE-R use the same temp sensor.

I checked.

So either one will work on redtop S13 SR20DET.

Hatch with:
*HICAS
*1/2 tank gas
*Full interior
*Power everything
*SR
!!weighed in at 2850lbs!!


Coupe with:
*Manual windows
*No interior
*30lbs wiring stripped from chasis
*1/2 tank of gas
*SR
!!weighed in at 2415lbs!!


these are my numbers, hatch was weighed in at a farm on a grain scale, so it pretty close. Coupe was weighed in on Longacre race scales at Beaverun Raceway.

found somthing every sr owner needes http://www.zfever.com/catalog/produc...roducts_id=147

This information is for you guys who are swapping SRs into your car. Please do yourself a huge favour and read this post BEFORE you finish the swap, as it will tell you what to look for before the motor is in the car. It's so much easier to fix stuff when the motor is out. Don't be cheap. At most it will cost you a few hundred bucks if you fix everything right the first time. If you're already spending thousands, don't cut corners. Fix it right the first time and save yourself the grief.

This is of course assuming you have a good clean chassis and a good motor that holds decent compression.

Things to look for while doing your swap:

* When the motor is out of your shell, take the time to clean up the engine bay. Fix any rust spots before it starts eating away the rest of the frame. It may take a little time, but your car will thank you.

* Tip from SR Owner's Club: If you have any aftermarket wiring, like an alarm or stereo equipment, make absolutely sure that your car can start with the stock engine, because you don't want to be chasing ghosts when the culprit is something aftermarket that you installed. Better yet, remove all that stuff and make sure your car can start. You can always reinstall them later on if you want.

* When the SR is out of the clip and sitting on an engine stand, take the time to replace every single rubber hose and belt on there. Rubber has a lifespan of about 5 years under perfect conditions. Less if it's out in the elements. Sometimes a hose or a belt may look perfect, but the rubber coating is just cosmetic. The rubber makes it look good, like dressing. The weaves under the rubber is what gives the belt strength and structural integrity. Usually SRs has been sitting in a yard somewhere for some time. So take the time to replace all the rubber parts.

* While you're replacing all the hoses, make sure you replace the hose clamps with high quality screw-on hose clamps. The factory spring clamps and screw-on clamps are notoriously hard to remove, and tend to break over time. It should only cost you a few bucks for the dozen or so clamps you'll need. While you're installing those clamps, think about the position of the screw once the motor is mounted. Make sure you can remove it at the angle you'll have once the motor is in since you can't work around the motor as well as when the motor is out. So orient the clamps accordingly.

* The heater hoses are notoriously prone to leaking. Replace them with new high-quality hoses when the motor is out. Same with the vacuum hoses. Sometimes a leaking vacuum hose will cause your car to run poorly.

* While the motor is out, it is a very good idea to rebuild your turbo. The SR is notorious for blowing the turbo exhaust inlet gasket, and it is very difficult to remove the turbo once the motor is in the car. It should only cost you a couple of runs to Wendy's to replace these gaskets. Make sure you use new mounting hardware, or at least clean up the old one on there. While it's out, check the turbo for shaft play as well.

* It is also a very good idea to do something about the turbo plumbing. People who sell turbos know that the SR has a problem with poor oil flow. That's why they stock T25/T28. If you have an S13 SR, follow the turbo coolant return line and see where it leads you. Now think about where that line is going to end up when the motor is mounted. You won't have too much space to work once the motor is in.

The best way is to reroute the turbo coolant return line to the water outlet going to the upper radiator hose. S14 and newer SRs water outlet has a tap for the return line. Get this waterneck if you can. mynismo.com can special order them for you from Japan. If you can get it, plug up this hard line in the back by either welding or by clamping a plug onto it. Just keep in mind that if anything breaks back there, you will have a hard time getting to it, especially if the motor is hot and you have big hands.

Now is a good time to install new braided lines. Taka Motorsports sells complete bolt-in kits you can use without having to worry about reusing the banjo bolts.

* When the motor is out of the chassis, you can work on the steering rack. You may want to install some steering rack spacers now since they are not accessible with the motor in.

* When you install the new motor, use new motor mounts if you can. They're not too hard to access once the motor is mounted, but chances are the mounts on your stock engine and the stock mounts on the SR are both done. You may have trouble accessing the bolts on the turbo side once the motor is in though.

* Another thing you may want to do is go through your stock wiring harness and figure out where everything is supposed to go. Get an FSM and label each harness. This will help you rewire the SR since you know exactly what's supposed to go where. If you have some extra harnesses you will know where they go so you don't have to worry. If you get a plug-and-play wiring harness, take the time and figure out where everything is supposed to go before you plug them in. This is probably the single hardest thing when it comes to swapping in the SR. Most people will mess up the wiring so badly since it's very confusing and they don't take the time to figure out what needs to go where. Of all the non-running SRs I have seen, probably all of them had wiring problems of some sort.

While this was an inappropriate place to ask, I do think this qualifies as a frequently asked question (and one of frequent debate).

When both engines are fully dressed in completely stock form, the SR20DET weighs within a few pounds of the KA24E and KA24DE - close enough so as not to matter. The lighter block is offset by the weight of the turbocharger and intercooler.

It's a topic of debate because no one ever swaps a completely stock SR, and the weight of both engines will vary by installed accessories.

If it's of concern to you, your best bet is to weigh the car on racer's scales after the engine swap and plan your weight savings from there, because everyone's car and engine will be different.

When working with heater hoses, be extremely careful because the barb/nipple on the heater core can be very brittle due to age, and they can break easily. If they break, you will have to replace the heater core (involves dropping the dash and disassembling the front half of the interior), or seal up the connection some other way.

When removing the hoses, it is best to use a hose remover (looks like pliers with rubber on the ends), or if you're not re-using the hoses, just cut them and carefully peel them off. Don't twist with pliers or you may break the nipples.

When installing new hoses, you can dab a drop of oil on the nipple to help the new hose slide on. Use high-quality hose clamps, and be absolutely sure not to overtighten!

some intresting things about SR motors

blacktops have pistons, rod, crank capable of makeing 400whp

s15 tranny is a 6 speed built into the housing of the old 5 speed. 5th and 6th gear can't handle more power than a stock s15 motor 250hp flywheel.

so its been said here, dont think your gonna put the baddest motor on what you think is the sexiest tranny ever.

also intresting is fully built SR's can be limited by the VTC. RED TOPs with VTC are great for mild streetable build ups cause the vtc will give you lots of low end torque with out sacrificing high RPM HP. However, cams with a 11mm lift wont work unless you disable the vtc. also VTC will fall apart at the very high RPM (around or bellow 10,000rpm).

the BLACK TOP head vs. RED TOP head
the black top is a high port head
the red top is a low port head or what an engineer would call a tunned port
all this really means is most black tops will never NEED a port and polish
nissan thought makeing huge ports in the head was less restriction therefore more power on turbo motors. however, later realized optimizing volumetric effiency, through a tunned head and VTC, made more useable power ON STOCK SR setups.

if you are set on being the baddest mother fucker. build a blacktop with the biggest cam and biggest turbo you can find. and of course all the stuff that goes with it.


wow, thats my first post

when you are talking about blacktops.. are you talking about s13 or s14/15. also, where did you get that info that blacktops have pistons, rods, and crank capable of 400hp. aren't s13 redtops capable of about 400hp on stock bottom end also.

and fyi, redtops dont have vtc unless you swapped in an s14/s15 blacktop head. s13 red/blacktops are almost essentially the same. also, iirc the awd gti-r sr20s have the best flowing heads of all the srs.

Totaly incorrect

6 speed box is totaly different (3 part case) , all the ratios are also different,
different flywheel, unsprung clutch.

the 5 and 6th gear thing, blitz ran a 400bhp s15 on the std box for some time without problems.

So why post incorrect information. (I have a s15 box and i know what i say is true)

C.

fr pilot

yes, your right. S13 red tops didn't have vtc they are too old. let me clarify what has the nice rods. s13 blacktops and I'm pretty sure s14 black tops also have the 400hp rods. all red tops have the weaker rods. the s13 red top with a turbo has the same inferior rods as all the US SR's like B13 B14 and S14 SE-R. same as the rods in the jdm red top S14 S15

as for GTI-r head, yes they are the best and individual throttle bodies are also very sweet. very few people even know about that shit. people dont even know about the awd sr's since we dont have a version of it here. and even fewer spend the cash on it.

cookie

when you have 400hp in YOUR car tell me it wont break. your are believing what you read in a magazine. ask any drifter or drag racer. nissan 6speeds are shit. you can safely run about 100 more HP in the same car for the same application on a 5speed. hard launches at 400hp will blow your tranny. in a 5sp launch at 500hp will blow your tranny. and yes 5th and 6th are half the size of the gears they wish they were. I read it in SCC and there is even a picture of the 5 and 6 speed trannys cracked open side by side.

hmm, hypocrite much?

i believe there is stock longblock redtop making 570whp for about a year now....its on freshalloy if you dont believe me...

578.6 to be exact, and running 10.34 in the 1/4

I'll be at 400bhp soon enough , I'll go tell all the people i know that there 6 speed should have exploded when they got to 400bhp.

Please post the article it will be an interesting and probably not that infomative to read.

Might want to read this

http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showpost.php...8&postcount=13

C.

let me tell you about S15...
-First of all, s15 tranny can be RELIABLE until 320-350HP, since there is one more set of gear for 6th gear is added, it should be weaker for sure, for 400HP+, it could hold but u are testing your luck, if u are a 6 speed lover like me, your best bet is to either stay under 350HP (which im doing) or get the strengthen 6 speed transmittion from NISMO for s15 only (approx. $3500-$4000).
-If you are doing a S15 swapping, make sure, and i said MAKE FUKIN SURE you got the rear differential of the S15, and be sure it a Spec R rear diff, because S15 Spec S has the different rear diff.
-For s15 engine swappin to s13, you would need a custom drive shaft coz the s15 drive shaft is longer than s13.
-Even though u got your engine, rear diff, and drive shaft, you gonna need a signal converter aka "black box" in order to have your speedometer, trip info, and VVT operate, even though, the car can still be drivable without it. and you wont have speed cut... :P

thas all i can remember for now. Thanks Ron of Motorsport Technique for teaching me all these useful info. you are my hero!

you don't need a s15 diff when doing a swap, but the s15 diff is a better performer than the s13 or s14 diffs.

VVT does not require a speed input to work

C.

Um.. No
The unique thing of S15 is the speed sensor is located at the rear differential, as the VVT need to go thru the ABS module (which require speed signal) in order to operate. nuff said...

I got a reply from hybrid dynamics, it only made 460hp on pump gas in the real world :( your never gonna pay for that crazy race fuel on a dailly driver
from Jay:

The shortblock on that car was 100% original OEM Nissan, never torn apart. The head had a basic valve job and resurfacing done to it. That is all.
There was no portwork at all done to it. It had a cometic metal headgasket,
ARP headstuds, hks valve springs, HKS step 2 cams and greddy rocker arm
stoppers. That was the only things done to the engine. Like I said though,
the bottom end was 100% original, and honestly, wasn't even in the best of
shape. We've seen cleaner engines than this one was.

It had around 460 hp on pump gas at 18 PSI, and then the 570 was done on
VP114 race fuel.

Here is a picture of the motor in the car. You can see how clean the head
is from when we had the valve job and resurfacing done, and how filthy the
block still is.

http://www.hybridynamics.com/uploaded/2/IMG_1296.JPG

thanks!

jason

install tip
 

Hey I finally dropped the sr20 in this weekend. What a [email protected] The engine droped just fine into the engine bay no sweat. It took maybe 5min. But, I was an 2 inches off on both motor mounts. The engine would just not go back far enough. So here is what I ended up doing. I went on

http://www.nissanperformancemag.com/installs/240sr/
http://www.superstreetonline.com/howto/3430/
http://www.srswap.com/faq/index.asp#prepengine
I even got this issue of "Drifting" which was the best!

Anyway they give you the steps about moving the heater hoses from going to the drivers side and point the to the passenger side. You have to do this BEFORE you drop the engine. Because like I said its tight! Well those hoses did not give enough room to push the motor back. So, here is my tip. You have to hoses. #1 hose is an "L" shape that you turn 180 deg. The #2 hose is connected to a hard line that run along the back of the head. Everyone says to arrange the hose so it is on the hard line and going back to the passenger side. But, that hard line is in the way of the head moving far enough into the firewall. So I cut the hard line right at the back of the head. So now on my block I have 2 hard lines coming out at the same length and the are both only a couple of inches from the heater hose outlet from the firewall.

I hope this helps.

OEM Nissan part numbers for redtop SR20det belts:

Alternator:
11720-52F00

Power Steering:
11720-59S01

anyone have any literature or wiring diagrams for an s14 sr20det swap in an s14 chassis?

thanks

im not sure if theres been a post about the TPS, but im gettting NO power at all out of the ECU to my TPS... i have no idea why ive traced everything back its all good. help plz

is this the same with the s13 sr?

The Megan Turbo Elbow for the s13 redtop has a bigger hole for the O2 sensor. I used the 95 300zx O2 sensor since it is fatter and it works fine. The other one posted on the first page is the same size as the stock one, it will work fine if you use the stock turbo elbow

R32 Skyline GTR rear diff are Nismo 2way lsd. R200 and direct drop in for 240sx. They run about 300 bucks online.

help me get pass the government!!
 

yo i just did a rhd & sr swap on my s14:aw: ,you guys said it was pretty imposible but it got done:2f2f: .Now im trying to find out how to get rid of my govern.cant go past 180km= 120mph. some one said you have to cut a wire off of the ecu..but they didnt know the color:loco: ..HELP!!:eek:

180 is 115 not 120 buddy and this is the faq"s no asking shit in here.

hey does anyone know these cam part numbers and what they mean. BA39UB AND AA291B, ALSO BA23RB AND AA13KD.

need help with which cams to use
 

hey does anyone know these cam part numbers and what they mean. BA39UB AND AA291B, ALSO BA23RB AND AA13KD. i am switching out sr20det heads and i noticed that the cam numbers on my original motor are ba23rb and aa13kd. the other head that i am going to install has cam numbers ba39ub and aa291b. i need to know which ones are the better cams
please help asap:rant2:

Jeff, No offense but youre here to help, and no question is a stupid one no matter ho many times a newbie asks. I put my own SR20DET Blacktop in my Automatic Coupe S13 without the help of Fouroms and you. This is informationsl but you have the knowledge to share it with ebveryone. If youre sick of sharing then stop posting so many freaking posts. get a life n go help people for real money in the real world. Door Knob.

is there anyway to make an s14 sr head work on a s13 sr block ? i have seen write ups on fresh alloy on different oil gallies in the front of the block (s14 block has an extra oil galley for VTC) that makes it impossible...could you run an oil feed line to the vtc to make it work kinda like mating a non-v-tech honda motor with a v-tech head?