K24-T hold the A
 

I'm finally ready to share this build now that able to get back to working on it come next month. Anyways, last year i decided to ditch my ~325whp KA24DE-T after blowing the rings off a stock block for the second time (too lazy to open up the ring gap) and upgrade to K24A2. At time the i didn't really have much going on other then Riding Unemployment. The auto shop i was working for fired me for enlisting. Illegal I know but the common wealth of VA is a "right to work state". So while waiting in DEP to go to Navy Boot Camp, all i did was work on this swap, sidework and replace the body on my fathers 73' spitfire. so i I parted out my KA-T and started getting ordering the first wave of parts.

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I started out with making the oil pan fit while I waited on the tranny adapter. fitting the oil pan and oil pump is a big placement problem as with how far back i wanted it, the pick up would be in the subframe. I cut and welded the pickup shorter to get it in about the same location as a KA/SR would be.

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Sometime in the build I found the perfect turbo for 500$ to kick off this build, a Borg Warner S257SX-E twin scroll 1.0 A/R. Here it is next to a RB25DET NEO on the left and the T3/T04e off my KA-T in the middle.

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Next came relocating the PS pump and finding a new way to tension the serp belt as the PS pump and tensioner would be in the way of the intake i wanted to run.

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Mounted a S2000 radiator with S2000 silicone hoses. The radiator fill cap is a little tall for the 240, but I'm going to relocate the fill port later.
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Did a Timing upgrade with a skunk2 tensioner, type-s oil pump, oil pump guides, timing chain gaurd, and the revised upper chain guide while installing a 45degree VTC gear. To get some more low end torque out of the Honda.

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After getting all this sorted out, I moved on to wiring. As I still had not received my transmission adapter from Collins yet. So I began to do wiring for a Haltech 1500 in my final weeks before boot camp. I wish I could of keep my MS3X from the KA-T, but I wanted to use my J35 DBW TB i got from work a while back swapping out a Honda Pilot engine.

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May 2018
With only a few days left before I leaving for an undetermined amount of time I pushed s13 outside, and set about locking up all my tools.

November 2018
After finishing A school I got a chance to go home and take 14 days leave. A few weeks prior my tranny adapter kit finally came in, but collins never sent me the clutch. So I focused on getting the motor mounted and plumbed.

I came home to this pile of boxes

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Tranny fitted and dropped in to make mounts. Fit just as planned, although the valve cover sit a bit higher then when i was building the oil pan. I have a plan for later so I don't have an ugly ass hole in the hood.

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My dad lending me a hand droping it in.

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Mounts made using poly leaf spring bushings.

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Once mounted I set about making the turbo manifold for the BW S257SX-E. Never making a turbo manifold before, this was a challenge, but atleast I already had a equal length manifold planned out using autodesk Inventor. using FSMs and pictures i mocked up a K24 in an S13 engine bay.

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Mounting twin MVRs with dump pipes, the space on the passenger side is getting very cramped.

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bumming 220v at a friends body shop to TIG weld the manifold, and new exhaust.

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It was looking so close, but so many little things left to do.

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ran out welding gas 4 days before i had to leave and airgas was closed cause of thanksgiving and black friday, so i focused on wiring and packing the garage back up. pulled the motor, set it down on a dolly and rolled the S13 back outside

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And here we are now march 31st Ill be home back in VA, with orders a ship in Norfolk. I'll have almost 4 weeks to work on the car before I go on me first deployment. I don't know when I'll be back yet. Guessing late summer early fall tho as ill be joining in mid deployment.

The very last of the parts have been ordered to finish the swap plus some extra goodies I've picked up while waiting. just recently ordered a walbro E85 450l and all the plumbing to convert to flex fuel. Also my clutch and flywheel came in back in January.

Oh wow...another Honda Kseries build thread on Zilvia, but one that actually delivers. NICE! [emoji869]

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Nice start to the build thread man, good luck getting it finished . If I may ask tho, why did you choose to go with a k24 ?


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oh fuckin fuck yeah bud

1: thank you for your service
2: this Is the first new build thread I've seen here in quite a while that actually has me stoked! looks like you're doing some rad shit! def keep us posted!!!

oooooooo baby. sub'd.

there's a couple of reasons. I've always been die hard KA guy for the 6 years I've owned this car, but KA are getting old and hard to come by in good shape anymore. I've worked on RBs and they are just long and heavy. Also they can be a bitch to work on. so RB and JZ is out, but if could get a hold of a Barra in the states you bet that would be going in tho. Which leads to another thing I wanted.

I wanted something different some thing challenging. yeah I could scrape up the cash to drop in an LS but everyone and their mother has done it now. one of the motors I've always wanted as a 13B or 20B but thats a bit to exotic and my pockets don't go that deep yet. But K24 fits the bill. As far a I know this will be the 5th one to be completed, the 3rd turbo K series, and the 1st to run a CD trans (I got collins first kit which explains all the delays). stone motorsport has their turbo k24 in ireland and TNTgarage in Austraila has a turbo K20. I've actully talked to the owner of the TNTgarage s13 on facebook and hes a cool dude. theres also the speed academy S14, and an s13 with a K20 that was up forsale in New Jersey last year.

But I've always loved Hondas. I still miss my 91 DOHC ZC EF hatch. the K series is a great engine its much motor modern then any other 4cyl or 6cyl we drop into 240s. shit its still in production and I can go get replacement engines at picknpull for 250$ all day long. the stock block will hold 500whp with E85 :rawk: or racegas. its been fairly costly to get it in but once its in its dirty cheap to fix just like an LS.

Thank you. I can't wait to actually go out and do my job now that I've completed A and C school.

Thank you. There was a Kswap thread on here before?

i believe he is referring to Max's car:
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Hell yeah. I never stop browsing for a nice CRX or si hatch.

That's the one. Did a double take when I first saw your build thread's title...

Yea man I’ve seen a few people interested in this swap, I can def understand the availability of the Motor as well as being able to hit 500whp and all the aftermarket parts available as well haha

What I don’t understand is why someone would want to go from a 2.4 to a 2.4 with so much customization to make it work. But hey at least you will have some variable valve timing and definitely have something different.
Good luck man, will be following the progress






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Creative title there, never seen that before.

Cool build though!

tight! curious to see how you'll like it compared to the ka.

why did you decide to go with haltech instead of hondata or ktuner?

:cry: one day i'll stop getting distracted

Cry me a river lol


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you literally quoted all of the reasons why and you still dont understand?

i would much rather see these threads than a ls or a sr swap. its entertaining and refreshing to see something new. another cool thing about swaps like this is it encourages others to think outside the box. more options for the s chassis community is always better than less.

Oh no I completely understand what he meant. What I’m saying is, at least my way of thinking is, if ima swap something, and go through all the hassle, it’s going to be for more displacement. That’s just me tho, all the power to OP and others with the swaps they choose


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I'm debating making a swap kit for it and possably having my friend Ryan aka RaceBread to make batch of turbo manifolds. I already have a new manifold designed that will fit a s300 borgwarner.

2.4 to 2.4 isnt a fair argument. The kseries is much more efficient of a motor. The max anyone has made out a NA KA other then the CORR trucks, is what 220 whp. OEM part combo K24s can make mid to high 200s whp and built motors have made 500hp at the crank. With that efficiency it's more comparable to 90s I6 or V6 even v8s of larger displacement.

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I already had a standalone, MS3X on the KAT so I wasnt gona step back in features.

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skimmed it a saw a K24 make a cameo appearance on page 3 lol. maybe he'll get rolling on the swap soon.

This is rad, subbed!

OP: Go .020 overbore. MOAR displacement.

Swap: Justified.

Lmao would that get me over 2389cc from the K24s 2350cc? Might need to go bigger.

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Thank you for your service. I am super stoked for this build.

Thank you I cant wait to get back. This last 3 weeks on corry station has been killing me nothing to do in holding and almost all my friends have gone on to their new duty stations.

Do have some news tho. Today I sold my old 93 Dakota 3.9 2wd beater truck and got a 01 F250 7.3 superduty 4x4 crew cab. Now I can tow myself and my whole gang to summit raceway and Shenandoah. Next Tuesday I got a 1033 mile road trip to Norfolk stopping in TN. Gona be a much better ride on the way back. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2546f9700a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fd39bcce8e.jpg

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Someone reported this post, it may not have s chassis content but is somewhat related to his build. Please do not report posts unless admin/moderator action is necessary.

I will keep a lookout for you at Summit and Shenandoah. My car wont be ready for this season but I will be out there to spectate.

This is awesome man.

I'm looking into doing this swap myself. Do you have any more pictures of how you modified the oil pickup? I have a different idea altogether but it would be a lot of work, so it's good to keep my options open!

I just got home to Virginia last nite. Idk how you modify the pan different but you can try. Speed academy did less cutting by lowering and notching the front subframe but affect geometry. I notched the front subframe a little but not much cause my rack has been relocated https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cd8d16acb8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6f8f82f8c9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0357bf4450.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...edc230efa0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d2e0cc6c8a.jpg

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Opened up the garage today and looked over all the parts I've been piling up. Sorry I dont have many pictures I was mainly tryn to figure out if everything was there. At first the amount of boxs wasnt right but they were scattered around the house. I did mess up and forgot to order more AN10 hose for the remote oil filter setup I have. And the Canton remote filter adapter I got used for a deal was the wrong thread pitch.

I didnt spend to much time today cause I had to help a friend move and I was wiped out. I got the motor on the stand to get ready to fit bungs on the oil pan and move some coolant fittings around. Moved the wastegate coolant feed to the top of the rear coolant adapter for firewall clearance will pulling and installing the motor. And the coolant temp sensor for my innovative gauge to the thermostat housing, but I need to open the hole for the sensor as the 1/8 npt port is ressed and the sensor wont fit.

Tommorrow I got check in on base and move into the barracks. But I'll try put some work in this weekend. Cant do any welding till next week tho cause I didnt get a chance to refill my argon bottle today.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...50b28e0e02.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6a8bce83ac.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...69ed7a9287.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba2f1bf1ee.jpg

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Did a good bit of plumbing work today. But first here's all the extra bits I acquired while in Florida to add to the build. Got a walbro E85 450lph pump, turbo speed sensor for my borgwarner, parts to remote mount the oil filter, and a fuel pump controller out of a range rover. This fuel pump controller is the same module out of Aston Martins with supercharged V8s and handles big single fuel pumps. NZEFI has tested this unit up to 18amps continuous load and it takes a simple 100hz PWM signal from a standalone ECU. They sell this unit with a bracket for over 300$ but I got mine on ebay for 60$ with the pigtail.
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Started off with the fuel lines, fuel filter and flex fuel sensor. Riv-nutted the fuel filter to base of the shock tower. I didn't spring for the PTFE hoses as want to later rerun the hard lines down the drivers side away from the exhaust with -8 feed and -6 return. Later I'll add a heat shield to the passenger rear side of the engine bay to protect the fuel lines and body harness.
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Next I moved to the oil system. Mount up the remote oil filter to the frame rail to make more room around the exhaust manifold. Haven't started running lines as I'm still waiting to get into contact will Canton racing about ordering just a the banjo bolt so I can use mount the adapter.
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Originally I wanted to run -10 for the crankcase scavenger with a fitting made for these motors. But, flipping the Skunk2 Ultra intake doesn't allow for it. So I used some left over -6 from the old fuel system which just barely clears the intake, alternator and alternator cable. This will work till later modify a pre 09 water housing to fit a post 09 alternator. Which I can mount with a turnbuckle, making belt tightening much easier then squeezing a turnbuckle behind the water pump pulley to move the power steering pump.
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Also started some welding prep. Fitted up the fitting for the wastegate coolant feed by cutting a S2000 oil cooler barb fitting for a -4 bung.
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Hopefully tomorrow I get out of class early enough to refill my argon bottle and start finishing up the oil pan.

New class schedule gives me a good bit of time to work on the project in the afternoons. Today I got cracking on finishing the oil pan. added bungs for the turbo drain, temp sensor and a -6 for oil drain. Used some hinges and 16ga to make the baffles for the pan. At this point only 2 more things are holding me up from putting the motor in for the last time. Hammering the transmission tunnel on the drivers side of the tranny bracket on the body to clear the CD009 and final welding of the motor mounts on the subframe.
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The clutch finally goes on after waiting 9 months to get it and another 2 to get home. Fits perfectly with OEM Honda hardware. When I went to install the clutch I noticed a part number on the 6 puck. Now I havent seen any logos so I looked it up. Turns out collins ships there trannsmission adapter kits with a stage 4 Ebay clutch. It's not a problem as I've used them before but it makes me wonder why this kit costs 2300$. I Also had to retap a 2nd hole on the adapter plate near the starter cause I found another hole that wasnt tapped al the way through.
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After getting the transmission on for the first time I wanted to test the clutch engagement before putting the engine in, as theres no room to pull it in the car and many people in the CD009 everything theard have had issues with this. So I got creative and pulled the master off my car, bench bleed it and then gravity Bleed the slave. I couldnt get all the air out but with a bit of squish in the pedal and a heavy pry I could get the clutch to disengage. Something tells me I'm not gona like this heavy clutch so when the Ebay clutch goes I'll get the inlinePro twin disc.
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The transmission has to come off as I only had 6 out of 9 pressure plate bolts at the time. But after I hammer the tunnel on the next dry day I'll install the motor and get cracking on the last of the odds and ends. While it rains tommorrow I'll just knock out welding on the exhaust.
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It's been a long weekend thinking about at the stuff I have to handle and store before I deploy in 18 days. I've been on the fence lately if I'll get to drive it before leaving again. Because before I leave, I have to pack my whole garage into storage and help my father prep to move out of state. Although these last few days of progress make it seem like I will at least get to hear it run, provided parts from Canton and summit get here quickly.

Friday I knocked out a heatshield for the fuel lines and body. Cleaned up the firewall from when I was using a VW coolant tank on the KAT and extended the body harness to fit around the heat shield. Also, while the motor was still out i went ahead and upgraded the oil cooler.
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On Sauterday I got a couple buddys over and droped the motor and trans in for the final time. After notching the shifter hole I got the Gktech shifter in. After that, I went about checking clearances on the heatshield. Turns out it has great clearance to the down pipe but, not so much to the rear wastegate. Got a M8x1 to -4 banjo on the way to remedy this. Oh and when i pre-placed the remote oil filter I goofed and had it to far back to where the fittings were going run into the front wastegate screamer pipe. Moving it 2" forward fixed it and brought it even withe fittings coming off the block adapter.
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Sunday and Today I focused on wiring and finishing the the fuel system. installed the Walbro 450lph pump by using a spare OEM hanger assembly as a guide. All that really has to be done is cut the bottom off the hanger and wiring it up. I found it weird I couldn't find a write up on this pump unlike the 255lph. While I had the pump out I crawled under and replaced the lines to the sender with E85 compatible hose. Took almost 3'.
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The wiring has been kinda of a challenge to pick back up. First off i hastily cut my old Megasquirt harness during the part out and took a few important wires and connectors with it. Second most of the work i did on this harness was over a year ago and i had to fix a few mistakes the that gave me hell the first time i turned on the Haltech. Im very thankful Haltech has just as good if not better diagnostics then MegaSquirt with the addition of DTCs After good bit of fiddling tho its a about 70% wired up. It was a good feeling when i got the DBW throttle body working and seeing everything that was currently connected reading appropriately. Still got wire the cluster back in along with EBC, Flex fuel, turbo speed, Oil and Fuel pressure, and Brake input. Also need to look into my FPCU it works but it doesn't shut off on a low duty cycle like I thought it was supposed to but I guess ill just add in a fuel pump relay.

First start should be this weekend if all goes well...

Today canton racing came threw with correct center bolt, an O-ring kit and a free catalog (love getting catalogs). Immediately set about finishing the lines for the remote oil filter/cooler setup. I didn't know this till now, but making short lines, less then 6 inchs, is much tougher to get right cause you gotta be spot on with the length.
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After wards I went about finishing the turbo manifold. I couldn't weld it the garage cause its only on a shared 15amp circuit with one of the bedrooms and it over 200ft from the breaker. Can only reliably weld exhaust in the garage. Even though this house has a detached 3 bay garage cause of this is almost useless for fabrication or hobby work. The bays are also only like 3 foot deeper then an S13. Because of this Ive always had to use the air compressor from an outlet by the water heater room outside the house. Well told I decided to try and weld in that tiny ass room. I don't know what amp this outlet is rated for, this old house has a shit labeled breaker box, but it let me weld constantly at 130A which was what needed.
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After finishing the tight spots on the runner 2 and 3, I attached runner 4 when the collet on my tig torch wore out. It would no longer hold the tungsten. At this time my neighbor dropped by and told me had a package on the porch, parts from summit. I then started cleaning up the wiring in prep for fire sleeving them. One thing I like to do when building my own stuff is to over build in hope to eliminate failures. Every drift event I went to the in the past I didn't have a second vehicle so I drove to the event 4 hours away, in it and home from it in the 240 with out fail. Then to work the next day for a well needed oil change. I can now trailer that car but I want to maintain this kinda of reliability with the this build. As such with all the extra power I've been working on a Z33 diff/axle swap with Aramada cover into an S13 subframe but i haven't worked on it in a long time, as its hard to find the right ring and pinion at a good price.
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I couldn't finish the AN plumbing for the turbo oil feed and wastegates, as I had the manifold of off and the Banjo comes it own box tomorrow(today). But I did start throwing in the cooling system together. Then I ran into a problem. IDK how I made both lines fit at the same time in the past. But with the pieces I cut from a set of silicone S2000 hoses I could only make ether the top or the bottom long enough to work. I think once I find some 1.25 mild steel pipe I'll extend the lower coupler and put a mounting bracket on it to help keep the hose off the PS pulley.
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All that's left to do for a start up is the Turbo manifold and the -4 oil feed to the turbo. after that i got a good bit of things to finish before i can actually drive it. Tomorrow I gotta move out the barracks back to my friends house am graduating from my 2nd C school and going on 2 weeks of leave prior to meeting my ship.

It's been a long weekend piecing together that parts to make it run. Started off making a new radiator coupler using the summit one and a chunk of an old wastegate dump pipe. Looks pretty cheesy but it gets the job done.
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Then got back to and finished welding the turbo manifold. Upon install I started to learn a hard lesson. When I first started making this manifold I was challenged with how to bolt up the turbo to the flange as there was no threads and it was to big to tap. At the time I thought it was brillant to cut the heads of some old KA headbolts, as they were also long enough for my collector flange heatsink, and weld them into place with the TIG. Oh, how wrong I was! Each time i went to thighten the nuts on the turbo on stud would break free of its welds. After about the 3rd time I gave up and got bolts to go threw the flange. Then in quick succession broke a drill bit and my favorite carbide burr, this was making for a really bad day. chucked another burr in the drill and eventually cleared the holes for through bolts, and notch the heads of the bolts.
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Once everything was in place I installed the new AN to banjo fiting. Its really tight fit to both the wastegate and the heatshield. In the future i may have to slightly notch the wastegate for the banjo.
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Next came the hood. And for now the S2000 radiator doesn't seem like a good idea as it's to tall it fit in between the power brace and the hood with the radaitor fill neck on it. but that's not going matter... on the other hand the K24 nearly fits without cutting a hole in the hood, thanks to making an oil pan the puts the windage tray basically on the power steering rack. If I notch the valve cover or bought a KMiata valve cover I wouldn't have to cut a hole.
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later i will be putting on a Dmax vent to hid everything.
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and after adding 5 quarts of oil to the pan and an addintional 2 quarts to the lines/filter/cooler.... its time to start it up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Oo7eSsAQFw

After priming the oil system, it started right up first try on a modified K20 base tune. I'm really starting like Haltech for its simplicity. Bad news, the oil pan I welded together long ago has a few welds dripping oil and I don't have time to make a new pan before I deploy. I really should of took my time and TIG welded it instead of MIG. So, that is all for now, Friday ill be putting it along with my entire garage in storage in preparation to leave. I'll be back late summer, early fall and hopefully I have place to work on this thing.

those welds

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Really happy to see you making good progress with this.

I managed to pick up an F20C oil pump for super cheap on eBay for mine. Can't wait to start tearing into it, especially seeing how well you are getting on.

Good stuff man!

Why did you grab the f20c oil pump do you plan to rev it to the moon?

The other day I have the 240 put into storage at friends house along with all my tools at another friends. Already made it worth it getting my F250, this thing is a beast at towing didnt even feel the 240 was behind it. The overloaded tool trailer tho took a bit more slipping of the clutch in 1st to get going smoothly.

While I had the car on the trailer I took some important measurements for making a new oil pan, non one stitched together from a old pan. I missing key measurements for the oil pan flange but the pan is starting to shape up in Autodesk Inventor. Took some pictures for reference. With custom made pan I belive I could drop the motor another 1/4 to ³/8th of an inch to get the vavle cover under the hood if I want to drop the motor more. Right now part of the oil pan flange is basically sitting on the rack as you can see.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...69e98d26de.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7616768a71.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...060aa35e2f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...31f75c0169.jpg

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It works tho, who cares?

except for the fact that the OP said the pan leaks at some of the welds.

I'm not sure if its welds or it from the flange which got little warped, cause I leak tested it before I left for boot camp. Its realy hard to tell on a gloss black pan. I never want it to be the finally pan anyways it got really janky after cutting the back for rack clearance then winging out the sump. When I'm done modeling it up I'll share some screen shots. But I do need some help getting measurements for the oil pan flange. It's close based of what I know from my pan and what moroso says on their site but i I deffinalty need bolt hole locations.

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cant wait to see the inventor shots. i just got back into autocad last week after a 5+ year hiatus.

Other then using Autocad in highschool for Co2 cars about 10 years ago, I've never used Autocad for much more then sketching up ideas. This was my first time using the sheet metal environment which is is interesting to use.

Anyways, plan is to make a steel pan (i dont have an AC TIG :-/), 3/16 for the flange and 1/16 for the sump. Couple design changes have been made using inspiration from SR20 sumps. instead of welding a tube threw the pan, I'm putting 1/2 NPT inspection plugs on the bottom to access the 2 bolt holes blocked by the passenger side sump kick out. I probably will make them studs or allens to avoid dropping a bolt in the pan while installing. Next change will be to mount the baffles to the pan instead of the block, its just too cumbersum to have mounted to the block. One of the builds i do follow in their latest update Project Binky shows a nice way to do weld in baffles that are removable for cleaning. If you aren't familiar with Project Binky its a pair of British blokes that are stuffing a AWD Celica GT-Four drivetrain into a classic mini to be used as a rally car, and their nearly done.

This isn't a finallized version yet as i don't have the required measurements for the oil pan flange and bolts or the timing cover bump yet. Soon I'll try to email Moroso, Canton or Kmiata but I doubt they would just hand over the .IPT file for the flange. If one of you other guys doing a Kswap could get me measurements. I'd be glad to get the pieces for the pan to you, at cost of materials, for you to get welded up.
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Been going over my electrical schematics for making a new harness that goes threw the drivers side when I get back and I belive I figured out why I couldnt get VSS out and my FPCM to work. Going over the pinout in haltech all output are controled ground except for stepper outputs. Normal DPOs only switch between open and grounded. Stepper outputs can do, 12v to open, ground to open, or as they call half-bridge 12v to ground. For both these outputs I need the half-bridge config. Ive made notes of this and already swapped pins in haltechs config.

This Should work perfect for the FPCM but for the VSS out I may have to add a capacitor and resistor if it wants a signal that crosses zero. Yes I could spend 80$ on a Dakota digital but why do that when 0.35$ in electronics will give me a working speedo. Here's a link that explains it more. https://www.google.com/amp/s/ekwang....s13-speed/amp/

on side note. Being held up he in TPU is starting to get to me. I wish I could actully do something productive while I'm just waiting around. Dont even know how much longer it will be till I get flown to my ship, but when I do itll be a 24hrs notice. One good thing is I now have a pretty good idea of when I'll be back from deployment as I've been talking with othrt saliors destined for my ship. Still can't tell yall tho cause of OPSEC but, it's on the shorter side of my estimate.

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One the key things I can't stand about being in the military is the old phrase "hurry up and wait". I've been waiting in TPU for over a week now no clue of when I'll be joining my ship for the deployment. I've been told 2 things, I could leave any day and stay preprared to to leave with 24hrs notice or settle in your gonna wait here till the ship comes back... months.

After 5 days of waiting around I grew tried of waiting around on base doing nothing but playing smash and watching TV. I went out to my buddy's house and picked up my truck from storage. And loaded it up with tools and parts in preparation to work on the car for the weekend while its in storage at another friends house.

This morning I started off by swapping the Non-abs differential for a s14 VLSD diff. I don't want to run a VLSD but, this will work for now. After the deployment I have 2 paths i can follow ether swap the Cusco 2-way I picked up in Japan 2 years ago or finish my Z33 diff subframe but I have yet to find a decent ring and pinion instead of the R51 2.3 I currently have in the diff. The Z33 diff swap will probably have to wait till I step up to wide body tho cause the axles are very close to being to long for the stock track.
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The drive shaft I ordered while in Florida fit like a charm. When ordering I had no clue how long the drive was but, I knew I had the K24 in about the same location as the KA24, just maybe 1/2" forward of stock. I choose to call it safe and get a ABS KA24 to CD009 driveshaft to use with a ABS diff, vs getting a NON-ABS driveshaft for an extra ~3/4". It worked out if I ordered the NON-ABS driveshaft it may have been a smidge to long. Most drive shaft manufacturers recommend ~1/2" of plunge left in the drive shaft yoke anyways even for IRS suspension.
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Threw the catback on which hang a bit low for my taste but its as high as i can get it. I wonder how JZ guys keep their exhaust of the ground? Later I may have to use oval pipe for the down pipe for better clearance. Still doesn't go as low as to lowest section of the transmission tho.

Popped in the O2 sensor and started trying to get the K24 to idle on its own. I turned off all the flex fuel functions and it started to run smoothly but wouldn't idle. If it did, it would only idle at about 500 rpm. With a bit of poking around I found a setting under Idle Control called Max DBW position, which is a limiter for how much idle control can open up the throttle body and also acts as a scaler for idle duty %. The setting was at 0 maked idle control unable to open the throttle. After changing it to 20, it would idle on target rpm till it reached full temp and the idle started oscillating and surging. My MTX-l wideband wasn't giving good readings (may have to recal or get a new sensor) so right now I can only guess to why its acting up like this. So I called it a day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aC5...ature=youtu.be

Broswing Ebay the other nite I found an open box haltech 2500 premium universal harness for 50% off MSRP. Then went ahead and ordered the missing turbo speed sensor connector and a few DT connectors. So a tucked harness coming through the firewall on he drivers side will be in works this weekend. After I verify I can get the VSS output working and FPCU.

Yesterday I got off work early and headed to picknpull. Droped the subframe, oil pan, and pump on a 03 accord to get messurements for the bolt pattern of the oil pan flange. After inputing dimensions into autocad the pattern looks a bit off. One day this week I will go back and pull the motor to measure out of the car. Wish I still had access to a garage as it would be nice to have a spare block for fabrication work. A tip for easily measuring flanges with threaded holes, use bolts with a shoulder to get a more accurate reading. I used valve cover bolts from a Nissan QR25 to make each hole a 8.9mm dowel.
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Worked on the car for a little bit yesterday. Played with the haltech some more and got it idling perfect. Started off with my wideband needing a recal, but apparently with my fuel pressure sensor was reading high it set the fuel pressure differential higher. So the ecu was running super lean (20s at idle) thinking its fuel pressure was high enough to make the ID1000s spray 1250cc, disabled that sensor for later calibration and locked the injector flow in at 1015cc and it was at stoich after 7% VE bump on the k20 base map. It now starts and idles almost perfect. Then I set the ECU in open loop idle and verified oil pressure sensor against my MTX oil pressure and temp gauge and its within 1-2 psi Error. I need to adjust the cold and/or post start values cause it idles a bit high after starting.

I then tried to drive it in the drive way with a still kinda spongy clutch. 2, 4, 6, and reverse went In fine but the GKTECH shifter couldn't reach 1, 3, or 5. They would start to engage but as soon as I let out the clutch it would grind. Loosed the top bolts and pulled the shifter assembly back and gained 3rd. So I went under and loosened the lower bolts to move the whole assembly back and now have all gears. Had a buddy helped me bleed the clutch and after adjusting the master everything with the transmission is done other the the the flywheel cover.

I also repined the outputs for the FPCM and VSS out from DPOs to STEPPERs, then set them to half-bridge. Thru testing I couldnt get the FPCM to react to anything, so I'll be ording an SSR tonight. Didnt bother testing the VSS out yet cause I know itll need a capacitor and resistor from my electronics box that's in storage.

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Love this build. subbing for updates

Made a run to buddy's house last nite for tools. Grabbed a ton of tools to rewire the enigne with a haltech premium harness and to make a new oil pan. Got this free box from work no clue what went it in before but it fits all of my fabrication tools and straps down nice to to the flat bed. Deffinalty gona be my new tool box for fabrication on the go.

I havent given up on making a new oil pan from scratch but I ordered a new oil pan for 25$ and will messure it. I want a new pan but I also I want get this thing driving ASAP. I'm constantly torn between actully being to be part of this deployment and stayn home to finish the car. But it's not my choice if I leave or not and it's really starting to sound like I'll be waiting for my ship to come back while I do tasks far from my actual job in the navy.

While I was buddys house i also picked up the rest of the connectors (turbo speed and some Deutsch) i need to finish my harness along with left over loom and supply's from my KAT harness. And I measured the the thread pitch for the OEM S13 temp gauge so I can order an adapter to go where the Honda fan switch goes in the TSTAT housing.
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Start making the new harness today. Thru out the week I've been going through the 2500 harness removing wires not used on my 1500 and sectioning wires off into branchs. Then laying the harness out the car so find out how much wire I had to play with. I drilled a 2inch hole just below the throttle pedal mount and passed it all through. The ecu and fuse box will mount where the glove box was. And eventually I'll clean up my custom body harness and mount my chassis fuse box there too and get back my glove box.

First branch I did was the fuel branch which only has the flex fuel sensor, fuel pressure sensor and throttle pedal sensor. Haltechs harness is well thought out giving plenty of extra signal ground wires, 5v ref, and 12V, with dedicated wires for coil power and injector power.

Next I started the valve cover branch which is the biggest one. Starting of with the 2 cam sensors and CLT behind the head all the way to EBC and turbo speed on the passenger shock tower. I only managed to get up to finishing the coil pack wiring done before it started to get dark. I did toss on some more sleeve to get me an idea of what I'll be finishing tomorrow though.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d83788b066.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...23f0f7cd18.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b39bd0fd82.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...03b571d8e6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...89d5d5cd22.jpg

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Finished the new wiring harness today, which cleaned up the bay a lot. I've never tried to make a harness with sleeving before I've always just used tape. Which took a good bit more planning and time it make.
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The harness comes threw just behind the throttle pedal. On the Chasssis side it connects via a 12pin DTM connector and all power is pinned into my chassis fuse box.
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The ECU and Fuse box are not mounted yet. I've verifed everything still work that used to but, now the flex fuel sensor is working showing 93 pump gas at 8% Ethanol and 100F on a 85F day. Also checked on the newly connected Turbo speed senor now that I have the connector for it. After double checking pinout and haltech config im currently stumped. thinking it a a dead sensor as instead of a 5v DC pluse I get a 4.9v plugged in and 0.1v unplugged.

After some testing i have gotten the FCPM to partially respond to a duty signal 25% is slow as it goes and 50% is max. But it should shut off near 0% and over 75% and it just stays at limp duty output.

Also did some testing on the VSS output but no luck i managed to pick up a 25mV peak to peak waveform on a small oscilloscope but wasn't powerful enough to drive the speedo. I've given up and ordered a dakota digital for it, maybe I'll figure it out down the road but I'm tired of fighting it.
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Next weekend will be a 4 day weekend for me. Plenty of time to install the dakota digital and make a new oil pan. Then start doing some street tuning.

Been busy knocking out the new oil pan over the last 2 days. Started off by making a brace to keep the oil pan from warping this time. But, that's not where the leak was on the old pan was, turns out it was leaking from the top of the tube used to access one of the oil pan bolts on the short side of the pan. which would be impossible to fix with out cutting the pan up. Then remeasuring the oil pan flange bolt pattern for later use. I think one of the thing that was giving me trouble last time was I would accidentally bump the the zero button and throw of my measurements without me realizing it.
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Next came removing the old oil pan to measure and make a altered copy. This engine support beam might be one of the best tools i keep (didn't get rid of anything actully) from my old career. Without this I would of have to pull the motor and tranns, not something im tring to do outside and with limited tools. Here you can see the modifications to the subframe for the swap. Changed the passenger side rack bracket to have a stud to gain all the clearance I could and removed the front lip on the front of the subframe, welding the seam back together.
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Making the new pan I started with the easy section the rear shelf that is cut to clear the subframe and powersteering rack.
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Then the tricky bit, which I forgot to take pictures of, the front and rear face to the sump extension. Which tacks a lot of PAD (Posterboard Aided Design) and an Angle finder. Of the changes I'm making I'm made the sump a ~1/4 deeper, lowering the top of the passenger side to give access to bolts, and elongating the front of the sump for my capacity. Even with shorting the passenger side a bit i should gain about ~3/4 of a quart of oil.

One thing I did before starting to attach the sump was weld in some strips for rigidity where I ground away the rolled edge on the pan. The edge had to be removed to make bolts accessable via a wrench in the tight space, and the strips are there to help seal the pan and not warp the shit out of it when if I ever have to remove it.
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After 2 full days of work, I almost have a new pan. All thats left to do is to: weld any spots i missed, bungs, leak test, and redesign the baffles.
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havent posted here in minute but ive still been knocking stuff out.

Knocked out the baffles yesterday, after work. Started with the sides then, mocking up the braking baffle test fitting it with the oil pump off the motor.
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New pan held 8Qts to the edge without the oil pump, which probably takes up a quart. on the engine it should be close to 6Qts not including the oil cooler.
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With a coat paint the oil pan gets the seal of approval and is ready to install. I didn't have time to install the pan before the sun went down and rain was coming so I removed the engine support beam and let the tranny lean on the tunnel to hold the motor up for few days so the hood could be closed.

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A few days later the oil pan went on, no visable leaks. Then set about some finishing touches. With the new pan I ditched the thru tube and left open room to get to 3 bolts above the kick out. Some thing I also moved was the turbo drain which is now part of the timing chain cover. I'm not sure about this spot as the whole drain tube is about 45 degree slope but on the other hand if it went on the pan it would have been even harder to put those bolts in and the drain would now be below the oil line.
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Next I set about making the cold intake for the turbo. But i started of with a bit of a problem. the air filter i ordered in theory was gona fit the in the fender. But, for some reason 10" seems a lot bigger once its in your hand. It was about 2 inchs to tall to fit in the fender so on the powerstroke it went. and I swapped the truck filter on to the 240 which was tapered cone of the same diameter, inlet size (6") and 2" shorter. I couldn't start building the intake tho as I was missing a 3" coupler.
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I made a heat shield for the passenger side motor mount along with installed the proper length bolt, they have been loose till now.
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I then moved onto electronics. I played with the FPCM but it only responds to 75-225Hz. Also tried low drive and low/high drive both act the same. But high drive does nothing. There are a few versions of this controller I wonder if mine does have a shut of. I'm done messing with this it works for what i need it.

Also got the turbo speed sensor working. The first time I started the engine that day It was at high idle at around 2300rpm cause of a DBW fault. But once I remedied the fault by pushing the throttle plate by hand it idle normal and the signal was gone. I have to do this every now and then, sometimes it just sticks after sitting, but after that it's fine. This throttle body came of a Honda Pilot flood car which the motor was hydro locked. The last shop I worked for would do a lot of subletted insurance work, so I got to do a lot of motor swaps and big suspension jobs. I pulled the compressor housing to see the sensor was recessed about 1mm. I took a file and slowly worked down the matting surface till it was flush. Its was still gone at idle but at 1100rpm the turbo is spinning fast enough to read, which is good enough for me as predicted full spool for 10psi is 2500-3000rpm. I'm Curious to why Borg Warner didn't set it close enough to constantly read or if did they feared contact with the compressor.

Yesterday I started off knocking out the last of the under car work. Welded flange nuts to a pair of 3/4" x 1/8" x 2" flat bars then bent em into 90s. Tacked them onto the dump pipes on car with the Mig then pulled them off and swapped cables on my machine to TIG them.
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With more flat stock I made a bracket to connect each to the block. The front was simple but the rear got tricky.
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Next came the Dakota Digital. I Split the output to both the cluster and ECU. Test run on the default settings before calibrating, It was reading pretty high 30mph idling in 1st... but this was the perfect time to answer an old question of mine. What's the max speed the NX1600 cluster will display? Turns out the internal circuitry maxes out at 299 not matter KPH or MPH. This was on Jack stands 2800rpm in 6th pictured is actually ~60mph. I haven't entered the calibration factor yet but, I do know to set it to 1/6 as the abs tone ring is 24 tooth will the factory speed sensor is 4 tooth.
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There is very little left to do on the car now. Thursday imma knock out some more stuff then clean up the inside before going on the first test drive.

So goooooood. Love this especially since I come from the 8th Gen Civic Si world. That engine looks rad in that bay! Can't wait to hear the sooundddd. You're an honorary member of BoostedBoiz for this aha https://www.8thcivic.com/forums/imag...s/pinkvtec.gif

I dont think itll sound like a Honda between a 1a/r twin scroll and a pair of glass packs. It actully sounds pretty close to my old KA24DET but I havent heard it crack vtec yet.

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oh snap glass packs haha. I missed that part. Hmm I def wanna hear it doe. Cool build, mang https://www.8thcivic.com/forums/imag...s/pinkwoot.gif

Started today by calibrating the Dakota digital, adding short pulse width to the haltech (wired it's not enabled by default) and some test drives.

Still got some kinks to work out it start to break up around 5.5k so I'm not even hitting vtec yet but even with 30% throttle I hit 10psi around 3k rpm. My transmission has some issuses. 5th gear definitely grinds like I was told (free tranny) and ether I have a input bearing noise or maybe the tranny adapter isnt properly aligned.

With a turbo and a pair of glass packs this motor is very quite out of the car atleast for now on the low cam. Tomorrow I'll try putting spark plugs in it . Right now it has the old plugs that it came with havent even gapped them yet. But heres what it sounds like, I'm shifting as it starts to break up on about ¹/2 throttle.

https://youtu.be/Fzt6Dr_RatU


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Dang that is quiet! But sounds good and can hear all the snail sounds. My Civic Si grinded 5th gear as well before I sold it. Just had to go 4-6 for the last half a year.

Got back from deployment the other day. Already got a small box of parts from summit waiting for me to finish a few things so i can get back to fixing the drive ablity issues. Got a few things to sort out before i can get back to working on it tho.

honestly cant wait to hear this thing rip, best of luck to you!!

Over the weekend I wrapped the turbo manifold to help with my heat issues melting parts. Ended up having to replace the turbo inlet coupler and a few lines.
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While i had it torn down i also modified the water pump housing by cutting it down and tapping it, so i can run a -10 or 5/8 PVC hose later to catch can. before it was hitting the throttle body and limiting me to a -6. for now its just got a crusty 5/8 to 3/8NPT fitting that i probably pulled of an old KA long ago.
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I've driven it a few times sense i got back but not very far. After refilling the cooling system and bleeding for hours i have an air bubble somewhere in the system and it wont run cool. been working a on a solution to get it on the road quickly but I'm also talking to Trac Tuff about a custom coolant swirl tank to make this easier down the road.

dedication. lots of dedication!!!

After speaking with tractuff I rerouted the wastegate cooling lines so that theres a greater pressure differential on them. Before I went from the oem oil cooler feed to the back of the head but now I'm running them basicly to the oil cooler feed and return. The k24 doesn't have oil cooler ports from the factory so the return is taped into the water pump housing. Due to the complexity of the lines and the area they would be running through I swapped them to metal lines along with the turbo feed line. I also deleted the heater core for now as it's a high point in the system, the swirl pot will be the heater return and bypass feed. This combined with a filler port inline on The top rad hose has greatly aided in the ability to bleed the cooling system but it's still not prefect. I havent tried to drive it yet cause it was late but Tuesday I will mostly see if all this pays off before my custom swirl pot comes in next week.

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Found some more time to work yesterday. After reconfiguring the lines it still ran hot. So I turned my attend to the brand new tstat. For starters Ktuned install the tstat upside down. They must just plop it in the cause theres only about 90degrees of usable positions and in my position it was on the very bottom.

I took it out and ran it. Engine bleed what seemed to be instantly and ran cool with the fans only cycling on for about 20 seconds every few mins to maintain below 195F.

After testing the tstat to confirm it opened. I drilled out the weep hole to 3/8. This was to help give it a fighting chance sense the Ktuned tstat housing does not restrict the bypass flow once warm like almost all OEM tstat housings. on of the things I think I've been fight this whole time is lack of head(pump pressure) to flow water threw the rad and it takes the easy route threw the bypass.

Filling it up with the tstat installed it seemed to bleed instantly again. I let it cycle twice with the cap off the took it for a drive. Around town it seemed fine hold temps 193-197 but once I got on the highway the cooling didnt want to keep up. After while of crusing at 70Mph at 3300rpm the temps settled at 205F. This hotter then I'd like but the system is functioning properly now as the tstat housing and CLT (at the start of the outlet hose) were always within a few degrees of each other except when the running the fan at idle. As the tstat temps would drop up to 10 below the CLT.

Got another week before the swirl pot comes in so I'm not gona try to bleed it any more till then but I'm content for now. I'm now comfortable driving it away from the garage. Although it still not happy with the temps at highway speed.
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After some test driving the cooling setup got bleed to the point where i could cruise at 70mph @3300rpm and hold 185F CLT. Then swirl pot came in, fits perfectly and really cleans up the engine bay. I havent got it run that cool yet but i think its dependant on the weather. generally it crusises around 191-195F during the day and almost thermostat temp at night.
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i also swaped out my the VLSD for a welded diff with the Skyline diff cover i picked up while i was in Japan awhile back.
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now that temps are under control I've been talking with greaser about getting a tune soon. Driving this around is real fun and its tough not beating on it yet. I got the AFRs close and all functions are currently on except for EBC. on the highway its tough to keep this thing out of boost with how quick it wants to spool after 3000 rpm then VTEC kicks in hard at 4000 rpm (for now). it reminds me of driving the shark car with a stock RB25DET NEO except I'm in the low-mid 300hp range running only 6 PSI. cant wait see the tuner and put some timing back into this monster and enable boost control. heres a little tease with how soon the S257SX-E wants to spool.
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I want to hear this thing scream already

It gets tuned tomorrow...

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Here it is guys. 330whp and 305ftlbs on 12 psi on 93 octane. I'm a little disappointed in these numbers as I was expecting 400whp on 9psi as I've seen in couple dyno sheets but hopefully that will come with some tinkering. I need to figure out why the torque just starts to fall off after peak at 4500 rpm in not like a honda motor.

Got a couple things to play with to improve output as boost control wasnt setup to Increase spool yet. The 12 psi comes in alot later at 4000rpm then when the wastegates werent opening and hitting 14 psi around 3300rpm. It's also very rich on the street the dyno said 12afr, I need to look at the logs to see what my gauge was reading on the dyno, but I'm seeing AFR in the 10s on the street. Thinking about getting an adjustable exhaust cam gear to help with top end power. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8cee36a448.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...fc6e356ea1.jpg

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Well MRD has a mustang dyno which reads lower than a dynojet. Don't know how much lower though.

.....aaaaaand thats why I don't care for dynos for numbers sake.

Numbers mean next to nothing. Too many variables. For a tuning tool, absolutely great thing.

Does the car run good and feel strong? Thats what counts. If not, make changes.

^^ If a similar car on a similar dyno with similar conditions makes xxx amount more than yours, with that xxx amount being say 50-90 whp (and there are multiple cases of this considering how vast the Honda market is), then a number is good way to determine if there are any inherent issues with his particular setup. He is down some 70 WHP @ 3 psi MORE boost. That is not just up to conditions as that is a significant swing.

Blanket statement about "numbers" doesn't make sense in the grand scheme of things. Comparison and repeatability of results, do.

For all that work and effort in this swap, id be EXTREMELY disappointed. Im sure youll figure it out, maybe wastegate or boost leak issuse.

Looking things over there is some improvements that can be done to the tune that Imma work on myself. Something that I am starting to realize with a bit of research and messing around with Borg Warner's Match bot is that the 1.0 A/R turbine housing on my S257 is choking the motor as around 5500rpm engine delta pressure starts to go negative. I doubt I can fit a larger s363 or EFR8374 as it would probably hit the hood or valve cover. one thing I can do is get a 1.22 Twin scroll housing to help the top end breathe better and match bot shows it wont even hurt spool noticeably till I try to max out the turbo on E85

Yes these dynos read low but is a large expectation difference. The setup feels like my old 14 psi KA-T with more power between 2000-3000rpm and I'm making the same power (same dyno) as my buddy with his SR20 on 16psi, but I'm making close to double the torque :rofl:. Looking over other k24a2 STOCK BLOCK dyno charts I see some motors havea flat torque curve and there's others where the torque cruve only drops maybe 10% between peak and redline. Meanwhile I'm lossing about a 1/3 of my torque. I believe the turbine housing is choking it but I do need to play with EBC as its not a perfect 12 psi it fluctuates about a psi.

Here's what I was hoping for I believe this is with a 6262 or a T04z on 9psi in an automatic TSX
http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ynopumpgas.jpg

Low to Mid range is strong AF, top end feels lacking.

and for those wanting to hear it. this was one of the final pulls dont rember if it was 9, 12 or 14 psi tho. turbo starts to spool at 3k, VTEC at 3200 and then full spool at 4k.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWSrjSRLToQ

I feel like something else is wrong, Thats a pretty good size hotside..

I'm slowly cleaning up the tune I got it was done kinda quick.... once I finish expanding the fuel tables back up for the 3 axis "intake cam angle". Then get the VE tables within .02 lambda and review the to see where peak EFF. is at every MAPxRPMxCAM cell. I can use that data build a cam angle table to keep the engine in peak VE throughout the fuel map for top performance. Once all that is done I can come back to hopefully just get the Ignition tables tuned up and safe and ill be making more power. ill have to review a before and after of a few things tho before i warrant another trip to the dyno.

One thing I have noticed after leaving the dyno is AFR on the street was in a the 9.5-11 WOT, very rich which could rob some power. The injector duty cycle at peak is 62% (1035cc) which is almost 400whp of fuel being put into the engine. the big thing i think it will come down to is cam angle timing. Due to the fact the tuner collapsed the 3 axis and used a single map for a 50degree sweep of cam advance for fuel and ignition i find it hard to believe it was running optimally at each cam angle. Comparing the dyno tune to a K20 base map i used there was about 10-20 dregees of timing adv. pulled after peak torque comparing the 2. Also the Hondata K24A2 I/H/E and 7 psi supercharged base tunes has more cam adv up top then the dyno tune.

I'm just gonna accept these results for now. After alot of reading this just seems to be the norm. Soon imma try out e85 maxing out the id1000s. After this underway coming up I may fork out the 400$ for a k20z3 head and get that top end power I'm looking for.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...14d0f229e8.jpg

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Dam...wayy short of what i was hopen...i was rotting for this swap too. Seeing this for the easy and price..id go sr20

These motors have potential just the k24 takes a lil work to get the same kind of top end power that a k20 would make. This thing does make an insane amount of torque in the midrange currently tho.

Started e85 testing today put 5 gallons in on a close toempty tank and got e42. Got fuel close and timing need to be pulled for haltechs default addition amount as I'm picking up a little bit of knock at 10.5psi.

Tomorrow once I see it cold start fine and I ease out some of the timing I'll see how it like what ever is actully coming out of the pump here on base. E85 on same boost sound net me 30-60whp but idk how much injector headroom I'll have left, kinda cutting it close.

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ID1000 limits have been found at 43.5 psi fuel pressure. Even though I've only been running E63 (i think the station here is only pumping E70) so far at .9Bar/13.3.Psi I've found the limit. If I was actully running e85 the additional 6% of fuel would for sure hit 100%. guess its time to move fuel psi up to 4 bar.

I haven't tried adding much timing only 3 degrees at full compensation, currently at 70% comp, but already I can feel decent addition of power. On pump I had boost control set to 8psi in first and second then 13.3 psi 3rd gear and up, this was to keep traction. I keep these settings for flex fuel but now it lights up the tires in 2nd and 3rd at these pressures. Here is a little snipet of a datalog from today sliding it briefly. one thing i need to try playing with is the EBC plumping as it will almost always spike if i try to increase spool by adding duty cycle.

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Good news and bad news. Good new is got another motor for 700$. Bad news is I found the torque limit of the factory rods at 350-375ftlbs and it started knocking.
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Over the last week I've been pulling the motor and working on my new alternator and PS pump relocation. Today I finally started tearing down the knocking motor.
After pulling the windage tray I could see rod 3 with a very slight S curve in it. The motor still turns over by hand freely but there was a slight tick at TDC. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4261c38706.jpg

While I've been tearing it down I've noticed a few other things. First off I found a vac/boost leak with a 2nd map port that never saw before on my TB adapter. I use nether as I'm running haltech built in map sensor. It's getting plugged and I'm moving my BOV vac source to the map port on my j35 TB after taping it for 1/8npt. And my Watergate will now get reference from the compressor housing, hopefully this will help with boost control wanting to initially spike and help me get traction in 1st by lowering base boost by about 1psi. 1/8npt.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d82ff08afa.jpg
Next came making a prototype bracket for my new belt setup that allows for easier tensioning and removal of the alternator with out removing the intake. Prior to this the TB was actually laying on the top bolt of the alternator. This involved hand machining 3/4x1 1/4 AL bar stock and welding a few pieces for the idler pulley and ps pump lower bracket. Soon I have a buddy of mine mill a billet version along with an actual bushing for the idler not a m10 bolt welded to a m8 bolt... picture of my TIG welding jig for that
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I've always used thermal gaskets on my intake especially if they come with the intake manifold but the Skunk 2 one that came with my intake didnt match the port correctly nor did the throttle body adapter gasket. So I matched them to the port while lightly polishing the intake to help with top end power.
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I got a little more instore for this but I'm outa time as i have to go to sea for a brief underway. Wont be a long wait tho before I have it running agian.

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sick build thread! wish i could this swap, but the oil pan situation looks menacing

its a lot of work good news is, TF is making a mount and oil pan kit for this swap i was i made i kit like planned to but i just dont have time with the navy, shoot i dont even have a garage anymore.

As I have said on other threads, May the car Gods bless your s13 with a quick and pain free recovery.

p.s do not stress the numbers. The fun is in driving it. Fix it and go pick up the groceries like a normal person! haha

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...157e7d4852.jpgNew motor is in and waiting tranny fluid to put in after work today. I think I know why my old motor firstly was lacking power and second why I only bent cyl 3s rod. When installing the intake gasket which i opened up to the size of the S2 ultra intake i noticed that the center ports lined up nicely but 1 and for were offset by a few mm to the side. This is probably because the intake was designed for a k20 not a k24 which have slightly different ports. Out of all the port cyl3 had the best alignments of ports so it was the most airflow and the leanest.

After pulling the head it's clear that only cyl3 bent a rod and the motor is still buildable. Hell I could probably just toss a rod in it and send it. I have yet to pull that piston to see its condition tho. There is one scratch on the right side of the picture the barely catches the tip of a knife. This motor will be save to be built. Which at a minimum will be getting rods, pistons and porting of the head. Maybe I'll even toss a k20z3 head and port it out.
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Negative delta pressure or exhaust manifold absolute pressure (emap) is really common on engines with smaller turbos. This doesn't mean the engine is "choking", just that there is a lot of drive pressure. You can get the turbo to hold the same boost if you adjust the boost controllers duty cycle or run stiffer wastegate springs. It's just the price you pay for response. You could move up to the 1.15 or 1.22, or even 1.27, but you will lose response with the bigger housings. To put it in perspective, on a two liter 4G63 this turbo in the 1.22 housing doesn't reach full boost till almost 5000rpm, and that's with stiffer wastegate springs and an excellent tune.

I'd keep working with the tune and the boost controller before I changed out hardware.

Cool project you've got here! You've put a ton of work into this thing.

Also, you have a lot of broken picture links!

Thank you I need to do some updating as I've been driving around on the new motor and have it mostly retuned just gota redo EBC as I move the refference to the compressor. Maybe this weekend I'll do an update.

But the main thing I think is the issuse is port misalignment with the k20 intake and k24 head. I did some cleaning up of the gasket and light porting of the intake but to get the right transition I would need to gasket match the head. Basically all of my intake gaskets overlapped the porrs by a few mm. Even the TB thermal gasket (came with the intake) was smaller bore then the TB adapter and intake by about a 3/8" in dia.
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hey man hows the navy treating you by the way?

i myself am serving overseas here in the UK.

extremely interested in this swap for my s14, are you having any oil pressure issues?
Tfworks posted there shakedown video of the s chassis k swap but they were dealing with some major oil pressure loss when cornering. The way the engine is designed it seems the only way to keep it oiled under high demands/g's is to run dry sump. idk im kinda drawn off from this swap if that will be the major downside. sr's are getting ridiculous to source plus running heavy 6 pot engines just ruins the weight/agility of the cars.

Im subbing to this thread hoping you will do all the guess work for the rest of us noobs.
Cheers!

TF has redesigned the oil pan so that's no longer an issue. See this thread:
#/f/showthread.php?t=671498

This build is awesome. I regret not buying back the totalled (rear collision) 06 accord we had since new. I'm keeping my eye on this thread.

Can we please get more sound clips man? I'd be interested in the "boring" highway cruising vids if you have any.