That all looks amazing. Not super knowledgeable on the Akebono brakes what do they come off again? G35?

They come off the 370z/G37 and Q50/q60

Comparison of akebono front rotor vs z33 brembo front https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...6d5af1687e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...dd8b8422f0.jpg

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I wanted to run those brakes but for sum reason i couldnt figure out if they work with 300zx read parking brake...so i opted for ctsv fronts and evo rears

Yes, they do work with the z32 parking brake. I'm actually trying to sell my front cstv setup now lol

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For the basic setup, just get the GKtech roll center adapters and spacers.

Weird, the rotor doesn't look like it has a place for the shoe to ride? Does it have a steel liner inside the rotor hat or something? Minimum wheel size is 18 with that kit right?

At the moment im running p2m flca so the gk roll centers adapters wont work. Why i was lookn to change the lower control arms outaswell

Why? They should work fine.

Seemd like a haphazard way todo it... plus wanted to ditch the control arms and go with something new/better

Too bad you have a 14. I have 13 t3 LCAs to sell

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It has an aluminum hat for the parking brake. You can see it in the first pic of my second to last picture post of it over the parking brake assembly. Can't use it to slide, but I didn't build the car for drifting anyhow lol

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Yea but im og using 300zx shoes for drifting so aluminum hat is nooo go

Well that's just cause I wanted 2 piece rotors. You can get single ones that are normal with the steel hat

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Noted... for now im happy with the evo set in the rear

My pedal feels a little weird..like got 1/2inch of travel before the brakes come on..idk... has all braided lines, z32master manual booster. All that stuff, vacuum bleed like crazy. Its nothing to crazy but if i could just get no play up front the brakes would amazing

Which master

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17/16 size.

Even checked the rod between the bmc and booster for adjustment, and its maxed out.

It shouldnt be maxed out though, something is up with it.

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Well it just touches the mSter piston..so its at the perfect lenght, even 1/16 longer starts brake pressure/drag. Kinda weird, cause after this 1/2inch of play the brakes feel awsome, solid stopping power, no brake fade or pedal sinking ever. Got no leaks or low fluid.

Theres no pedal adjustment under the dash is there, to take up play/slack?

Oh and i had z32 30mm fronts and stock rears, with same setup(z32 master, and stainless lines) brakes felt perfect with nonfree travel or slack.

Only feel this now switchn to ctsv fronts and evo rears. Only feel this slack with the car running(vacuum assist)


Might goto basics and 2 person bleed the brakes and see

Has anyone heard of issues with the slotted spacers for the SPL adjustable subframe risers slipping out of position?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...eBushings1.jpg

There has to be a little air in there somewhere then. If all you changed was the calipers and you have sponge pedal until half way, id bet there's some pita air in there.Did you torque the subframe?

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I havent installed anything. Weighing my options. Want to see if anyone has had one vibrate its way loose

I've never had issues with them sliding out ever on my track car.

Awesome, thanks

Ehhh maybe someone has had this problem...

Gktech V4 Pro drift knuckles, GkTech FLCA (the one without the tension rod included), ebay tie rod ends (helm joint + long stud)

So ive had MA motorsports knuckles for a couple of years and those tie rods, never had any issues. No matter what and i had a lot of angle.

Installed the Gktech knuckles and FLCA, using same 17" rims as before, during drifting both sides threw the top nut out and the tie rod came out, both sides.

I havent checked to see if the tie rod end's bottom is hitting the wheel under all conditions and spinning the stud or something but i assume the knuckle and tie rod move up and down along with the wheel, so it shouldnt touch

Any ideas? I find it very rare that suddenly its loosening up, ive never had that, i dont even use the pin that secures the castle nut and i tightened them all one day before the event.

Wondering if its something to do with the conical inserts for ackerman adjustment or hopes for someone to have experienced this in another setup.

Are u installing the tierod shank properly?

Taper end goes into the knuckle and then tighten the nut(like to use locktite) then install spacers if needed, heim n the last spacer, tighten nut again with locktite. It will not come loose

Are you using the extended tie rod shanks or standard?

Yeap, thats why i mentioned i had used them for many years. I have used and dumped a bunch of them over the years. I had never had issues with them loosening. I think the ones i have dont have extended shanks.

The gktech uses a eccentric insert that goes into the knuckle (adjusts ackerman), they are correctly installed as ive always done them

They look like these ones.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Megan-Racin...0AAOSweExaENW8


Will go to the car now and check to see if they are hitting the wheels somehow, cause i feel they are hitting it and spinning the shank, hence teh loosening of the nuts. Pics will be taken.

If they were hitting the wheel u would see grind marks and here noise when it happens. Again, i would follow the proper install procedure with these, use locktight(even though the top nut is nylon nut) and please use a cotter pin on the castle nut....its there so it cant back off....

Welp, checked the wheel travel, full lock, trailing position, raised the wheel, compressed coilover, no change it hits, its either vibrations or something with the higher angle i have now..... (the wheels are scratched but i think its from when the nuts came loose and the shank went out.

I didnt use the cotter pin nor locktite cause i had never used it, but i guess ive never crashed due to tie rod ends so yea im getting all new nuts and cotter pins + shanks.

Noticed both FLCAs loosened the lenght adjustment nut so yep.... not good.

About the bump stops, is it all right to let the knuckle hit the bump stop? or should the tie rod end hit it? i got more angle with the knuckle hitting it so i went for that.

Either or can hit the bump stop. Wont cause damage. Bump stop it only there to keep u from overcentering.

Id use locktight on all suspension parts that dont specifically have a snich point. U dont want any arms or joints coming loose(which ur experiencing)