I'll preface this by saying a pumpkin is the entire differential assembly, case, guts, axle stubs and all.

1) I think you're asking "can I swap R200 diff into another R200 ring gear and put it back into the pumpkin that said ring gear came out of"? Then yes, as long as its a 10 bolt R200 diff, you can swap those.

2) I think you're asking "can I swap some other R200 guts (diff, ring & pinion included) into a Q45 pumpkin"? Then yes, again, as long as the pinion gear is the same length as what you're swapping it out with.

3) If you have all these diff assemblies sitting around, and 2 more Q45 ones at the junkyard, then why not just buy the one at the junk yard and experiment?

1) Thanks. That is the specific question I am asking. Have you confirmed this?? My initial impression was yes, if swapping nothing else but a R200 based pumpkin into a R200 diff (in this case a Q45), it should be a direct swap

2) No. I am asking if you can swap a R200 pumpkin (ATS LSS or S15 HLSD pumpkin, R200 diff based off the S13, J30, Z32 NA diffs) into a 350Z, which is a R200 diff itself (although has a different pinion and ring gear design). Base R200 (S chassis, R chassis, Z chassis, J chaasis, etc) internals are NOT swappable to a 350Z carrier. The internal/external dimensions prevent this

3) Why would I go plunk the money and time to pull all those diffs for it to not work?? Sometimes you need to work smarter not harder :). Time spent pulling diffs in junkyard is not spent making $$$ doing other things :)

My diff since I bought the car has always made me question it, plus this new 180 diff is fresh and got it basically for free. I thought about going z33 swap but it will such a hassle switching to s14 subframe unless there is an s13 rear subframe option that im unaware of.... Only going to go q45 once I have all the little parts, not a big deal finding diff but more the mismatching axle setup. Best case would be get a whole s15 diff and use conversion bushings. Get a sick lsd and have 3.7 final drive.

I'll admit having the resources and ability to put whatever diff I want where I want makes me a little biased.

I'm fighting this same battle with my BMW currently I just broke my 2nd diff in 1 year and I'm ready to just throw an 8.8 with custom axles and a LSD in there.

Which sounds expensive but when you realize the BMW LSD's are 1,000's of dollars and still don't fix the weak axle issue.

Anyways that's off topic, my 2 cents is to spend more upfront once and go with a setup you'll have the hardest time in the world breaking with the largest available aftermarket.

Because there aren't any good aftermarket LSD options for the Q45 differential.

Also, I have a feeling that the Z33 diff swap bushings for the s14 subframe may leave the differential tilted forwards when installed, but just hearsay I haven't confirmed it.

If any of the R200V (S, J, Q, etc) bolts up to Q45 ring gear, how is it there are no LSD options for the Q45?? The pumpkin is what determines axles, so essentially that is a non issue.

In terms of your second point. Do you mean the front tilted up or down?? Not sure how you can tilt forward. The front two bolt points are wider by .5". The rear bolts directly into the rear subframe via either the single bolt or the twin bolt cover (which covers are not swappable with the standard R200 and R200V carriers due to the diff housing being .5" wider), which actually places the diff in the correct plane. From what I am seeing, the diff sits correctly and I haven't seen otherwise.

Either way, it seems you can bolt a OBX Helical to the Q45 ring gear......which allows one to use a Z32 axle. So with that said, it seems any R200V spec diff bolts up to the Q45 ring gear.

I have no desire to deal with the Maverick motorsports diff bushing, aligning the upper and lower bushings for the front mounts and having to deal with frankensteining stubs and dealing with axle lengths. Which gets me no where closer to bolting up any of choice of diffs I have here and a fair amount of sunken costs as I am still left with either a Viscous or an open LSD......none of which appeals to me. It would only be beneficial if it is determined a standard R200V LSD bolts to the ring gear of a R200H from a 350Z (which I am finding out the R200V is not compatible with the R200H ring gear).

Anyways, thanks for the input. Moving on from this topic.

Your use of the term pumpkin is confusing, this isn't Ford solid axle, lol.
R200 really only refers to the size of the ring gear (200 mm). Doesn't help that Nissan has a bunch of differentials in this size, but are all different and calls them all R200 diffs.

Here's some good reading with pics on why an S15 HLSD wouldn't fit in a Z33 differential carrier. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...questions.html

LOL! Thanks LoSt :)

I use pumpkin as it makes it easier as it seems folks tend to get confused with the term differential (which is the correct term) and differential carrier (which folks equate to being one in the same........which it is not. See above about "gear" :D )

And yep, as I mentioned, found out about the R200V components (Q45, S chassis, J chassis, etc) not fitting as I mentioned. The R200H diff and it's components are all just sized up from the R200V every so slightly as to not have facilitate cross pollination between the R200V (S, J, etc) and the R200H (350Z, G35, Q45, etc)

It just took folks almost an entire page to not answer what you took one post to answer hahahahaha! I love this bar :)

The 350Z is a R200V (viscous) only the S15 is a R200H (helical). "R200" is open. The H and V aren't generation designators, lol.

My apologies. That should read R200 "reinforced". Thanks for catching that :)

Same underlying idea applies however :)

I'm interested in the 350z rear differential swap. Can't seem to find much on it. Found a guy on YouTube that uses the Collins kit to mount it in his S14. Not too much details in that video tho.

Maverick makes the front (offset) bushings. The rear housing should bolt up to the S14/2 bolt subframe
You use the 350Z stubs and axles
If the axles do not fit, you can also get the stubs modified by someone on the west coast (let me see if I can pull up the info) to shorten them

It seems, depending on chassis, the axles may or may not be too long. YMMV

Has anyone had any experience with the Serial Nine shifter on the CD009?

I just ordered one on Friday, I'll post when I get it. Currently using Collins V1 shifter.

I'm using one currently. You have to cut into the trans tunnel for it to fit but it's very close to stock location. What else would you like to know?

Mine was backordered for awhile, I got it a few weeks ago, but haven’t used it. Great quality, and they guys from the company are really cool dudes in Canada

Yes it’s awesome


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I believe they make all of their stuff in batches. if you're in the US, I recommend calling their distributor (TF works) and confirming they have what you are after in stock. their stuff was not up to date for s9 when I called late last year.

I talked to them on Friday before I ordered. They said should be this week.

Jut to follow up on some things. First to answer dudes question about the 4.08 gearing. If I remember correctly, 6th is almost exactly the same ratio as 5th in the stock SR trans. I’m pretty sure it’s damn close if not exactly the same but I don’t feel like looking so just know that it’s fine. Cruising on the highway is great, 3500rpm is nothing and about normal for cruising at that speed in a ton of vehicles.

Second, since I can’t seem to find a solid answer on what the S14 stock VSS PPM is, I saw that an LS swapped dude changed the ECU parameters to output a 8000PPM reading and it worked. So, I bought just the intellitronix box and set it up for 8000PPM output without anything else and I can confirm it does not work. The Dakota box is needed and I’ll be ordering it now and setting it up like the guy on the previous pages. I am guessing the output wave is different but don’t have a scope to check and frankly I don’t care, it just doesn’t work so I figured i would share. So if going this route, you do need the Dakota box even though the intellitronix has 4K,8K, and 16K outputs

I believe the stock reading is 4000PPM, I am running a Dakota SGI-5 with a JDM S14 4.08 gearset and have my ecm at 8000 PPM. My speedo is only slightly off but I haven’t recalibrated it. My 6th gear is nice on the fwy about 2200 rpms

has anyone thought about or has upgraded the master cylinder after doing the cd009 swap?

using mazworx kit

No because the Mazworx kit uses the SR slave so there's no need to change anything.

If you want something better you'd step up to a hydraulic release bearing.

No one making a hydraulic release bearing kit for SR from what I know... Only JZ right?

Hey guys, what are you using for a fork dust cover?

[emoji849] the Mazworx bellhousing can use either the Sr fork/slave or the z33 hydraulic internal slave..


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This^^^ why upgrade when it’s all SR everything, clutch included. Although I have wondered about upgrading the master to something potentially better quality than cheap replacement components but haven’t found anything short of the wilwood setup for LS cars. You can run the internal slave with the Mazworx setup but I don’t know anyone that is. If someone does have a beefed up stock solution with a slightly decreased pedal pressure it might be cool

Ok guys, I have the factory speedo working in the S14. I tried to use some of this info on mine but he is using a SGI-5c and I believe that’s just the older model as the newer model SCI-5e does not have dip switches and is all electronic options and adjustments. After playing with it some, I’ve got my settings that worked for me. I’m sure there’s a few ways to set it up but here is what I did. Intellitronix box setup just like his, to the 16,000ppm output. You do not need the VSS signal ground to have the speedo work. All you need is the Red/yel wire that feeds the VSS signal to the speedo. Couple of places to grab it, either directly from the back of the cluster or down the line closer to the lower harness. I spliced it right at the cluster because it wasn’t was just easier for me at the time. So take that and use it for the Dakota output 1. Use the white wire off the intellitronix for the input to the Dakota obviously and with this setup, mine was defaulted to the L-L or low to low setting already but if yours isn’t, follow the instructions and change it to this. You just hold the set button while powering up to see which program it’s on. Once all this is wired, and program is selected you can set your gain, or whatever it’s called. The “calibration” of the Dakota box. It shows you in the instructions but basically there is just a + and - button and you adjust the correction factor. With a 235/40/18 and using a gps speed app on my phone, I ended up at .512 with the above settings and it is absolutely dead on at all speeds. I really hope this helps someone because it was difficult to find any info for me on the stock cluster input and all that but here you go.

So in summary, all you need is

Intellitronix GPS Speed sensor and the Dakota SGI-5e, the above settings for Lou is using an older SGI-5c unit with dip switches, and the ones sold now are digital and do not have that, just to clear up confusion. I was confused so I thought I’d share that.

So intellitronix only needs power and ground.

Setup the dip switches to 16,000ppm which in what Lou posted, but it’s in the paper that comes with the unit and there are two options for 16,000, either should work.

Dakota Digital SGI-5e:

Power
Ground
Signal in- white wire from intellitronix unit
Out 1- Red/Yellow wire at cluster (VSS Signal)

THIS IS ALL YOU NEED FOR SPEED OUTPUT ON THE CLUSTER. You do not need VSS ground or anything else hooked up to the unit.

Settings- Low-Low and calibration .512 with a 235/40/18 but set it around here and fine tune for your car using a GPS speed app. I too used Speedbox for iOS

Thanks for the detailed instructions. This is what makes forums awesome.

For sure man. I just knew I looked around for a long time for some info and didn’t find it so I thought I’d share.

The whole point of people swapping to a Q45 differential is typically to use the larger, stronger stub shafts. If you put an S chassis carrier inside the Q differential, you then are still using the smaller weaker S stub shafts and the whole upgrade is moot unless you ONLY sought the gear ratio.