moving seeing rack forward question
 

Hey guys, I've been reading allot about rack over centering because mine had been binding and wobbling lately.I hear this isa common problem for s chassis.when cutting the rack mounts, how far forward should I move them to eliminate my over centering and how is the best way to go about it? Lmk!I know some of you fabbers out there know.thanks. Oh btw my only suspension mod is coilovers.

don't go hacking up your subframe.

1) "wobbling" sounds like a lot of things other than merely a stock rack location. you mean wobbling all the time? so bad rack/column bushings? terrible alignment? did you lower it without adjusting the toe? or do you mean wobbling at full lock? so... bad rack bushings again?

2) if your only "mod" is coilovers, you have plenty of other things you can do before worrying about relocating your rack.

3) i don't really have a third point, other than to restate that you shouldn't bother with hacking up your subframe.

Well the reason i'm saying is because at full lock my rack is going over center and is binding.that's the whole reason I want to do this.I have a proper alignment, my wheel bearings are goodso that's not it.

and you're SURE your two rack bushings aren't shot to hell? your wiggling description is still confusing me.

You should not be able to go over center unless you have modded knuckles. Your rack bushings could be worn and allow your rack to move and that may be your bind.
If you are set on the rack mod then go with Cor Integration "When Form Meets Function" I am a fabricator and I am having them do it, because they have done a bunch and I have seen their work. It is top notch.

If your only suspension mod is coilovers I am not sure how you would be over centering the rack and causing it to bind. Get under the car and have someone turn the wheel lock to lock to see if you are indeed over centering and binding the rack.

Check to make sure your rack is centered and 2 bushings that hold the rack steady while under the car!

Here is some Vimeo test footage of their car.

I know you have already said that your only suspension mod is coilovers however i have to ask, do you have aftermarket tierods, ends, or spacers?
Look and see if your bump stop is not out far enough. Take a wheel off and turn full lock and see if you can push the tierod in to the bumpstop. If you can the bumpstop needs built up some.

Thanks for the responses guys.yeah I thought it was weird to I thought that only happens when you have angle mods but thats what it feels like.I will check my bushings tomorrow.and no I do not have after market tie rods.also another reason I wanted to do this was because I am getting knuckles and gp sports tie rod ends with z33 or s14 inners soon.

I got Get Nuts knuckles, large spacer for the pass side, 6mm spacer for the driver side, Tein inner tie rods, Peak outter tie rods, and I noticed I had over centering issues. Thinking about trying the PBM eccentric rack spacers.

see i was thinking the same thing when igot knuckles but i have heard allot of bad things about the offset rack spacers.word is that they will eventuall pull the threads out of your rack,or other damage due to the stress.so....idk

Hard to say though, like what the circumstances were, how hard they hit a wall, etc. These actually replace the rack mounting bushings and push the rack forward, not the ones that replace the inner tierod mount. :)

oh i see,has anyone used those?it might be something to invest in,if my bushings are effed or not.

Solid steering rack bushings are not a good idea, from what I recall reading.
The COR cross member seems neat, I am purchasing one.

If you are overcentering with angle mods, you do want to have or make adjustable bumpstops

Once that tierod decides to poke the other way, thats all the angle your going to get and trying for more is just going to lock your wheel.

Your knuckle is all you have at that point that can be made to give you more angle.

If you are running the Get Nuts lab knuckles you may also want to check out their modified cross member that moves the rack forward and compare the postion to where the Pbm bushings place it.
When changing suspension mounting points/geometry of the suspension with aftermarket parts I would not recommend mixing and matching manufactures as these parts/new suspension geometry are specifically engineered to work together.

Same here. I'm only THINKING about it. I want to see how they perform and here some reviews before i spend money on them though but usually there is no such thing as a shitty psm/pbm product.....

i think i might order these bushings. does nobody have info yet on how far the rack should be moved forward?

proper rack position will depend on the rest of the suspension geometry ;) (EG: knuckles, lower control arm mounting point, tension rod mounting point)

Note rack position can also go up and down not just forward and backward.

It moves the rack forward. I kind of just go one mod at a time and then weld, fab, cut a solution. But, yeah, it moves the rack forward.

I understand the pbm bushings move the rack forward however they may not put the wrack in an ideal location for your current stock knuckle set up or what ever aftermarket knuckles you end up using in the future.