Yea when i checked for ground they had it at key on didnt check while cranking tho

i may have tested continuity wrong imma go back and retest. also my friend waited till after i disconnected the ecu to tell me i had to disconnect the battery first. that being said im not sure but i think i may have put it in limp mode off that no way to be sure tho since car doesnt run.

conversation with wiring specialties ended like this so far:


"So power stays - at 10 ish volts is low...
I dont know how you are testing injector signal wires to see ground on it. You are either in the wrong pin or something is still plugged in.
You need to unplug the ecu and the injector to do the continuity test...
Send me a pic of the ecu connector from wire side and i can confirm if the injector wires are in the correct position.

Aside form that you should try another ecu."

i dont have another ecu btw

Yea, no offense but from convo on here i "think" u might be a little confused.
Ill send u a pm will go from there

Update for anyone reading
Known problem: injectiors not firing. All 6
-Test light testing showed power to both wires at all injectors key on
-connecting the test light across both wires and cranking did not cause it to flicker on and off with pulses from the ecu
-eccs relay os fine and sends power to the injectors common wire

The ground side of the injector circuit goes from the injector to the ecu, thats it so there is either something wrong with the harness, the ecu or your ground setup

I have a brand new wiring specialties harness so that is pretty unlikely. So i swapped the ecu. Same problem power to both sides of the injector and no firing. Now im going to recheck grounds at the ecu with a test light.

Are you able to de-pin the plugs and see if it’s the same?

The pins might be arcing inside the plug

On all 6? I doubt it. Injector 2 was easy to do and check real quick but nothing different

Update:
Checked for grounds with ecu connected and not connected, everything appears fine. When the ecu isnt connected i dont have power to both sides of the injector only the black wires on them which i assume is the common. This is for both ecus.

However testing the common power feed to injectors with a test light hooked to battery 12v (Pin 109) it lights up :picardfp:
So naturally i go to the eccs relay since the system goes
B+ > eccs relay > ecu > injectors > grounded by pulsed ecu

Try to test the relay for clicking i dont think it was so i just pulled it out and swapped it with a known good one, no click.
Test the terminals 2 have power (white and red wire as well as a green wire) only one wire has ground being the white and black wire while the solid black wire has neither.

Pull out the relay and test the same pin (still has ground)
Bridge the load side of the relay (still has ground)
At this point im pulling grounds to find where its coming from.
Fuse box was relocated to arm rest so those were the first 2 grounds i pulled. Tested (still has ground)
Pulled the two body grounds in both footwells under the dash (still has ground)
Pulled the rb20 motor grounds by the ect (still has ground)
Pulled the motor ground cable all togethers (still has ground)

Side not my motor has a negative battery cable connected to a mount it doesnt ground to the chassis. Tested this ground and it works

Pulled the battery negative cable to chassis ground (still has ground)
Disconnected the negative terminal all together (no longer has ground. Probably would of sold the car if it did.

so I will be using today to try and find whatever relay or switch is giving ground to the common 12 volt Plus wire feeding power to the injectors

solved
 

Final update problem solved blown 25 amp yellow fuse in engine bay fuse box im not sure what this fuse is connected to wiring diagrams dont really show it or im just blind. car started right up. runs like poop (bad maf - dirty IAC) but it run. gonna make a dedicated youtube video on this problem since every form i went to was a dead end.

Good on you for posting up the resolution

Any chance of taking a photo of the offending fuses location in the fusebox?

ill take one later today!

It is the yellowish fuse that is in the center row of the engine bay fuse box. between the relays and the large fuses. you should have like 2 or three green ones and then the yellow one would be the last one in that line before it goes to the smaller non Nissan specific fuses

Here for any others that have this problem i have made a video compiling all research i did

https://youtu.be/Z7H9NsfP8sA

Hows the car running? Everything good now?

Cars running decent now under 5k rpm
fixed all vacc leaks
fixed the maf

idles strong revs strong sounds cool lol

it wont go past 5k rpm but i think that its because i need to upgrade the fuel pump, still rocking the OEM KA24 pump and it just feels like it simply cant keep up at that demand level. its not like its a regulated cut out you can tell it wants to rev past that point its just limited. but i planned on getting a 255 anyway

im actually gonna attempt first drive today i have to tighten the clutch slave lines with teflon tape (they spray all the fluid out under pressure) and i have to tighten one AN fitting on the chase bays power steering kit i installed the other day, it also sprays fluid on the high pressure line when turning. fingers crossed that thats it then i can start cleaning up the exterior.

Good shit..congrats, def throw a pump in there dont wanna lean it out.

Glad u got everything resolved

only sad thing about it is winter is knocking on our door and im just now able to drive it :naw: