My problem when i drift
 

Why is it that when i try to clutch kick into a corner to initiate a drift my rear end doesnt kick out even when i'm damn near redlining it. I dont like to over do it cause i dont wanna harm anything to soon since my 240 is my daily for school & work. And the times where i do get my rear end to kick out i.e. Trying to do a donut or drift in a circle the car seems to lose power unless i keep giving it gas to high rpms.

Im running a s13 stock ka24de motor. with cheap raceland coilovers for the meantime. & thats it. I just recently swapped my diff with a welded s14 diff but i havent tried drifting it yet. I usually spin out when i had my open and i feel like i spin out again. How do i keep myself from spinning out?

Very NOOB thread. But im still learning the feel of drifting. I read and know the techniques and whatnot, i worked on cars for awhile now. I just recently started too drift tho. Didnt have the budget before so i never tried.

practice in the rain! stock ka's like that best. also watch the drift king's video on youtube. it is about an hour long and all about different types of initiating.

The problem with that is the Bay Area rarely has drift events during the rainy season. Before you go saying do it on the streets, stop, remember that you are telling him to break the law.


Whoa, your problem with having to keep it floored is just what happens with the KA in stock form.

Yeah i been waiting for it to rain again but i checked the weather & it seems like all of december will be dry but hella cold. & if you're referring to the drift bible then ive seen that more than once and i still read about the different techniques. Im not really good with heel & toe, my foot just doesnt corresponds with doing both at the same time

I know thats its against the law. But yeah there is barely any events during the rain season.

yes never drift on the streets or on any private property. that would be illegal ;) Just practice at events and try to get some chances in the rain! use the steering wheel during the clutch kick to flick the car into the turn. faint drift with a clutch kick basically

That's probably your problem. Trying to get a car with an open diff to kick out by clutch kicking won't really do much unless you have quite a bit of momentum.

Try out the welded.

Clutch kick + open diff = nothing.

I wouldn't drift your only means of transportation to school and work unless you have a REALLY good friend who wouldnt mind giving you rides every day in the event that you wreck your car or cause an engine failure.

Having said that, with a stock ka in 1st or 2nd all you have to do really is give it gas and turn the wheel sharply and you should be getting sideways. You could throw a quick, single or double, e-brake in there to help. How fast are you going and in what gear when you are trying to initiate?

I love drifting KA's! I learned the most one day after driving my friends stock KA on the track, 2nd gear kick the clutch 1000000 times. Open diff isnt going to do anything.

I got my car sliding decent when it was all stock. Open diff s14 stock ka stock suspension and I still had a blast!

you dont need to be wide open throttle to drift. lay off the gas a little and you wont spin out. also do a few auto X runs. you will definatly learn how to control the car and maintain control of the car.

Exactley...lol
OP: you solved your own problem.... just give it a try now with the new diff.. and then give yourself a hub and be happy!!:coold::coold:

Drift Bible is a fantastic teaching tool- and straight from the guy who was credited with being the founder of drifting. It teaches about weight balance and weight transfer too (red foam balls and the brake/throttle pedal pressures), which are arguably fundamentals for drifting. Welded or 2way diff+coilovers= driftable car...its in the video along with controlling/ drifting underpowered cars (the KA has more power than the AE86 used in the vid, I'm almost positive).

I think you will feel a world of difference with controlling your drifts with a welded. Keep watching that video and pay attention to the weight balance and the angle of approach before the clutch is kicked and I'm sure you'll get the hang of it.

For spinning out.... just practice practice practice. After all of that practice you'll get a feel for when you're at the car's max angle. From here you'll know any further and you're either going to make a quick adjustment or you're doing a 180. The adjustments can be one or more of the techniques discussed in the video or just a simple throttle or brake correction.

Just keep at it and watch lots of drifting videos! :)

your problem is the OPEN DIFF. you'll do better with the welded. its night and day

this is my problem...:(

go to the next event now that you have the welded diff. some events have practice pads that allow people to practice figure 8's or full circles. once you're able to do that, try it out on the course. good luck, have fun.

You should just break the law

Don't watch drift bible. It is the fundamentals of drifting with the techniques used by a season pro. So, there's a lot of steering and pedal work beyond a new drivers level.

Just try drifting with your welded now. Open diff doesn't let you drift nice.

i just removed my 19" wheels and put 17" 350z wheels on it and now i can drift better but i still need a welded diff.

Like everyone has been saying, it's your open diff. I would always try to clutch kick before I welded my diff and all it did was make noise. I welded the diff, and it was a total night and day difference. WIth the open diff I couldn't do anything, then I did a low speed clutch kick with the welded diff a few days after I put it in and the rear end slid out like butter. You've basically solved your own problem by welding the diff, you shouldn't have issues any more. Hope this helped :)

should only cost you like $50 to get it welded..check your area if any zilvians weld..

hey OP maybe its the RACE land coilovers, try quality shocks/springs! those racelands probably make your car look like this when "drifting"
http://i1276.photobucket.com/albums/...dogsinsnow.gif

ignore that last post. you can drift on any firmer lower suspension. it just wont be comfortable. if it's super cheapy.. talking $800 or less..usually the ones in the $1000's tend to be decent, and the $1200-$1400 are better..

why ignore it?
youre advice is a typical american tuner. :hey:
I am also glad you told him that the more expensive the coil over the better quality, thanks. even I was lost there.

hahah this thread is cool, it's like I'm back in 2002 again :)

This is the most important piece of advice in this thread. You need to perform a slight feint before doing a clutch kick. The weight transfer, in combination with the drivetrain shock of the clutch kick, helps break traction and causes the rear end to step out. I have never tried to initiate by simply turning inwards and clutch kicking, I can't imagine that works well, if at all.

I have also found that a clutch kick works better if you are in the mid-range of the RPMs. At redline, you simply don't have any more gear for the drive wheels to accelerate, allowing the car to drift. If you are entering a corner at very high RPM, I find the ebrake to be a much better technique. You can try entering in a higher gear to put the engine lower in the revs, but this can complicate things as you may need to shift back down if you don't have the power to drift the mid range of the higher gear.

Finally you need to consider if a clutch kick is the right technique for a given corner. I only initiate with clutch kick in 3rd gear in 2 particular situations. On big, fast corners where you need to keep the speed and revs up, and on big, long entries that tighten up and then require a downshift. Mid speed 3rd gear and slower 2nd gear corners are almost always ebrake.

OP, have you ever tried Power over?

Rip that e-brake yung.

http://www.grillwilson.com/site/wp-c...0_Layer-13.jpg

WELD YOUR DIFF and or bring it to me and i'll weld it up for you and i promise is wont break. But other than that buy a 1.5 way or 2 way kaaz diff.