^^ are you sure about that? I have a redtop with a "redtop harness" and am currently using a "fat" black top o2 with a e5 ecu. I did nothing but take out my skinny o2 and put the fat o2 in. do you have a wideband to actually know if there is no difference? because as soon as i put the correct o2 in to match the e5 ecu my afr's were much different, no longer rich all the time, and maintained a stable 14.7 at cruise and 13.5 at idle. maybe your rich problems stem from else where.

It's cool, I dont wanna mess with either putting a 2nd bung in my elbow, or buying that dam adapter to go from fat to skinny =\. Maybe nassin31spr will sell me that E5 :bash:

no, consult will give you oem narrowband afr data, which is useless if you are not a computer. It can only say "lean" or "rich" as basically it outputs a signal between 0.2 and 0.8V. That is enough to make a fine adjustment, like in a closed loop system used in a car, but no good for tuning. A wideband lambda sensor outputs a 0-5V signal which gives you a very accurate result. It really is very useful, not only for tuning, but it helps see when things go wrong. The problem is you usually need to have a bung welded on your downpipe to install it . I am using a PLX one too, but would have went VEMS if i could at the time i bought it... Nearly all wideband kits use a bosch LSU 4.x sensor. the VEMS system is "better" because it has AFR and EGT on the same gauge, so that is 1 less gauge on the dashboard :D

Imho you have a wiring problem or a dead sensor. Can you try wiring it yourself ? A narrowband sensor is not that difficult.

This weekend I'm going to track back through the harness and check through the wires.

Checked harness wires, everything looks good, the o2 sensor gets 12v at the plug. I've been driving with the o2 sensor unplugged now and it drives and runs the same way if plugged in or not plugged in. Guessing it's a bad sensor and I'll most likely be going this week to grab one.