.86???? so im confused s15 turbo i know i can search what are the specs though???? the only thing im pretty much sure on is the tune will be great

s15 i think is a gt28r. search for that i guess

Off phase 2 motortrend

S15 turbo:
GT Dual Ball Bearing Cartidge
Turbine: T25
0.64 A/R Turbine Housing / 62 Trim
Compressor: T3
.60 A/R Compressor Housing / 60 Trim Wheel
Compressor Flow: 31 LB/MIN

I have up as well, that's why I just use numbersjet numbers to explain things...it helps even the forum playing field in terms of explanations. Plus it's hard to explain that D/D is a better number, when most traditional drag calculators follow DJ numbers so closely :/

I'll get my car on a DD dyno yet. I'm changing some stuff, so I'd like to see what my car makes again on the dyno I always use, and then head to a DD to see how she works out.


I like ApexI and Cosworth headgaskets.

For those wanting my manifold:

Extrude Hone - Deburring and Surface Finishing (for the polishing)
Racing Service Enthalpy (for the external gate)
Swain Tech Coatings for engine piston coatings, race engine coatings, ceramic header coating, carbide metal coatings, thermal spray plasma coating, metalizing closures, spray welding (for the coating).

You should do them in that order as well. If you don't want one of the steps, just omit it from the list without changing anythign else.

Have you driven a .86? The road courses I've driven keep you in the sweet spot of this turbo which pulls stupid hard.


Ahh, dont assume. My solenoid is going bad. There is nothing wrong with internal gate on these turbo's. I've used that write up to set up my controller and a few friends as well.


The problem is that the average person does not have thier exhaust system hung correctly. Most people dont use the braces MR includes with the manifold either. Brace it properly and support your exhaust and it will last. I was waiting for it to crack so I could go back to stock but it doesnt look like its going to happen.



I have yet to finish tuning, due to many issues and time. When we do a full session I wont need the SAFC. He has only tuned high throttle. Busy guy, he does Mitsu, Honda, but Nissan is his specialty. Ill be sure to post up my dyno when we finish.

well yeah the turbo sounds solid......stock manifolds 550 or maybe s15 injectors mild cams and a maf...what could i be pushing also what should i get to tune with...dont know to much about everything thats out there im looking for something cheap but im still willing to drop 1000 on a computer or stand alone i just need to figure out what would be the best for me

Codyace:

What was the cost to do just the Extrude Honing / Deburring on the manifold? Thanks

^im selling my power fc for $700.00 with commander plus shipping.

Should I use copper spray on a apexi HG

F... that copper spray.... make sure you deck the head though... or at least really clean it up... But copper spray is useless on metal HG, use it for your paper stuff like exhaust or whatever...

Yes, but only at one track. Was the top end there? Yep. Did it make more power than mine overall? Nope. Did it even make more power than my car peak? Nope.

A proper .64 setup > an .86 setup. Again, if you need more than 400 whp, go 30r, and benefit from a proper top mount manifold.

In order to be fast you need to get the most power down the fastest. Top end only proves to have an advantage on big HP tracks, and even then, if you can run out of a corner even just 5 mph faster, it takes a tremendous amount of power for a similar car to overcome. At a smaller course, an .86 would leave you dead on the water.

I'll take instant spool and grip to propel me out of corners, rather than hoping to rely on bigger power. To date, I still don't see any .86 cars with more average hp and trq than mine. Seat of pants means nothing on the big end. My car even at 12psi on street tires is just as fast as a new z06 on street tires in terms of course speed.


That internal gate sucks. Once you change, you'll see why. Greddy also 'used' to offer rebuild services (back in Profec Spec I days...) I don't even know where to look to see if they still do.

I've seen cars with flex pipes, every factory mount upgraded to nismo, and every hanger on the car, still bust their manifolds. Some are good, some are bad...that's the name of the game in cheap part land.


I can't wait :D T2 power!

Unsure what they are now. I got most of my stuff done through group buys 3 years ago.

NEVER! MLS gaskets require nothing but a clean decked head and block.

JIM WOLF TECHNOLOGY, INC. / NISSAN PERFORMANCE / NISSAN RACING /INFINITI PERFORMANCE
Racing Service Enthalpy

Get a ROM tune, you'll love it. It'll be perfect for your car. Plug it in, burnouts down the street.

PS: Anyone looking for a decent deal on a set of 4.63 gears, check out this link on the Mazworx site:

Used R200 Ring and Pinion, 4.636

so fuck after market or what ever just go with a rom tun and i should be perfect also anyone have a stock sr exhaust manifold i gotta get one quik

An aftermarket standalone, tuned will be the ultimate ECU solution...however for such a street derived setup such as yours, a rom tune is the perfect way to go. It'll act as stock as it comes, and be dead reliable.

Check the for sale areas for ecu's for sale...you may even be able to find one for your setup :D

cool sounds good thanks for the input u have any idea what numbers i can pray for

s15 turbo?

somewhere right around 300 hp. If you can completly gut your car, it would be one fun little rocket.

yeah i want a lot of power from stop til red line just something fun to drift

this thread is getting filled with garbage.

CODYACE: hey cody what size nozzle do you have for your water injection?

Agreed. To much personal Q+A...

I have the .07 nozzel in mine.

OK so who has the biggest power on a .86. I met a guy claiming 456 at 21psi. Bring em out bring em out.


Lol Ace I dont understand how you have so much hatred for the .86 when it spools like a few RPMs slower than the .64. I wish I had the money and time to get my setup built properly to do a direct comparison.

Oh Im also interested to see the difference in the cold side housings.

what are you guys with aftermarket HG's toqueing your head to ?

Factory specs, maybe a smidge more. I also use factory head bolts.

I used ARP with their supplied lube...I've seen 75, 80 and 85 just wondering whats been done by others

Gotta think if you go with STD correction, my car makes 420 whp...I really am anxious o see what it makes with water injection, and the C1's....


I'll do this in list form, it's easier

Reasons why I think the .86 isn't a good option

-A t3/t4 has equal spool time, and supports the same power...at a third of the cost.

-Those 'few' rpms make a huge difference in response...there is a huge difference in dyno RPM and then power over time. A .64 car comes onto power instantly...where that .86 has the response of a bigger turbo

-a smaller 30r makes the same power at the same psi, if not more power...and has the same response threshold


There are more reasons, but I can't think of them right now (tired, and have a few Troeginators in me). I guess in the grand scheme, I just believe that a 3071 or 3076 is the better 450 whp to use, as it can support SO much more power, without having to be spun to the moon.

The .86 just drives so clunky...almost unblanced. This is not to say it's a bad turbo...as they are fun...it's just that a .64 housing is more fun.



Cold side housings are the same for both turbochargers. It's just the turbine side that is different.

Yes, I was asking specifically for the .86.


I agree they are close but I know alot of 30r guys trying to come back to a .86 for spool time. Plus when deciding on my setup I factored in manifold and turbo extension etc for price and the .86 came out better value (given I can make the power Im shooting for, sheesh its been a long time!!!)


But I think its unfair to say unless you have driven a .86 that has been tuned to its full capability, especially in the fun department which is relative.




I was asking about the optional housings for the cold side. Not in comparison between .64 and .86. How much difference is there between the two options.

For example I see now that they offer ported compressor housings like the GTX antisurge junk. How much difference does this make and who went with what housing?

really? the gt2871r has a ported compressor housing? WOW! That is definitely something I would want. But I don't think it makes a difference on the spool time, as much as it helps extended the life of the turbo on normal setups. But it would make a difference in the ported antisurge is if you run it without a blov. At least on the GT30's with the antisurge that is why drifters run it without a blov. I think Kazama's old car ran antisurge without a blov because of response and response was one of the reasons.

http://photos-h.ak.facebook.com/phot...17663_6764.jpg




It doesn't seem to make a difference in max power. But theres got to be a reason for the different compressor housing offered. Also where can you buy just the housing? I didnt see it on Garretts site.

I want the antisurge since Ive been wanting to get rid of my BOV for a while. I wonder how much boost you can run without poping offf pipes?

I think one of the most prominent members with the .86 turbo was member Gatecrasher...but he also sprayed Nitrous ontop of it....



It's hard to say cost wise what would end up being cheaper. If going with a generic t3/t4 setup, it will probably end up going for less, if you're buying the same parts (both using 3" downpipes, both using tubular manifolds, both using lines etc etc) Now if you you just wanna run the turbo, on a stocker, with the lines...to easy, the gt28xx's are cheaper.

The biggest issue with 'most' 30r varient turbos, is that they are hodge podges of mixed parts. In order to really take advantage, you need the RPM's.

I have, and I prefer my .64 car over it. Maybe I was spoiled my the 28RS in my Sentra/Altima turbo beginnings?




There really isn't much, aside from the optional 'stock' housing (3 bolt output, 2 bolt input). I know I know, they have different trims etc etc, but all support (essentially) the same power.

You can't just swap compressor housings. They all have different wheel sizes/inducer bores.

Why would you not want to run a BOV? I really dislike the way cars drive without them...to finnicky and clunky for a street car. A proper BOV works wonders as well.

Speaking of which, I may be retiring my old Greddy Type S(hit) soon. It's been on all of my turbo cars, but I think I'll end up going to a Turbonetics Raptor...plus it'll rid of the ricey 'achoooo' sound.

Do you like anything besides what you have? lol. You remind me of one of my very good friends. If it isnt on his car it isnt worth a bull nickle



Been searching around today. This is GSRacer on FreshAlloy I guess before he went to his V8.

Well you can for sure get optional housings from ATPTUrbo.com just give them a call, they are down the street from my house. Also its true, without bov, its harder to modulate throttle, so it really becomes almost like an misfiring or antilag system. On power or off power, not much in between but response is sick...