S14 SR20DET Engine Identification.....
 

Hi,
I have looked and can't really find a concise answer on how to tell what year and specific car (JDM Silvia or US 240SX) this engine came from.
I just got a 73 Datsun 510 with this engine in it and I want to identify it so I can get to know it.
How do I tell if it came from a JDM Silvia or the 240SX?
Is there a specific place on the block to get the engine codes?
Thanks in advance...

post a picture or google ka24e, ka24de, sr20de, sr20det and see which one it looks more similar to

240sx = ka24e/de
silvia = sr20de/det

Uhhh the U.S. S13 or S14 never came with SR20DET's Only J-spec Silvias Came with the Black Top (Hump) SR20.

If the Valve Cover is completly flat then its from a 180SX or Silvia

Theres a serial number on the exhaust side of the block right in front if the bellhousing

Not sure if that can be used to find out if its a Zenki or Kouki. But thats the only helpful munber that i know of.

This is my engine.....
What do you mean flat valve cover?
No VTC? (I think that is what they call it.
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...-9k/510_18.jpg

I cant see pics cuz of these work PC's
But S14 VC will have a bump on the Intake Cam side VTC and the valve cover slopes down @ the #4 Cylinder

Thats an S14 maybe even an S15 SR20DET. Wiring Harness plug into the ECU under the kick panel. We can tell you if its an earlier S14 engine (zenki) or later (kouki/S15) engine. To tell if its an S14 or S15 engine, take the coilpack off and look at it. S14 uses the fat coilpacks, S15s use skinny ones.

Sorry, What and where is the coil pack? Is that th espark plug coils inbetween the valve cover?
Is this possibly a J-spec engine?
I just came into ownership of this car and haven't really goten the chance to do my research and get familiar with it. Thanks for the help.

Yes its a "J-spec" engine. SR20DETs were never sold in the states, in any car.
On top of the engine, take that carbon fiber piece off. You will see the coilpacks under there. Pop one off, tell us if its skinny or fat, better yet, take a picture. Then go find the ECU under the passenger side kick panel (assuming its located there since its in a 510 chassis). Disconnect the negative on your battery, then disconnect the ECU from the harness and take a picture of the harness plug.

He doesn't need to do any of this stuff.

This is a 93-96 Zenki S14 SR20DET.

The easiest and simplest way to tell an S14 SR20DET(Zenki) from an S14a SR20DET(Kouki). Is that on the Zenki engines(93-96) the valve covers had Stud and Nut combination for the attachment, while in the Kouki(S14a) engines it used a Bolt and tapped hole in the head similar to the KA. This is one of the Minor Changes(MCS14).

So with all of this said, In this community, which is the better or most prefered engine? S14 (Zenki) or S14a (Kouki)?
How much HP stock?
Thanks BTW for all the help!

S14 and S14a are mostly identical with a slight ECU change, the valve cover bolts and upper timing guide removed. Other than this, that's all I know that changed engine wise.

Well, since yours is upgraded, Im assuming you mean what can the stock block hold power wise? Its been known to hold upwards of ~500WHP but I would recommend a built block at 450+. If you are referring to stock everything besides exhaust, boost and Intercooler then I'd say 270~280WHP is capable out of a stock ECU, Injector and MAFS setup.

Both of the engines are equally desirable unless you want to go to a Power-FC D-Jetro ECU.

Engine bay looks clean tho. Do you know what kinda turbo that is and what else is done to the engine. I'm willing to bet there are goodies under the valve cover...atleast im thinking in my head, why else would there be a BISIMOTO sticker on the back.

Very informative!

show us more pictures of the car
and more info on how you got it :)

Hey,
So how I came to own this car huh?
Well, I wouldn't say I was cheap but I got a great deal on it.
Kind of Ironic but a friend in LA that needed to get rid of his baby to get married and have a real baby.
So let's just say I benifited from his situation.
Here are some more pics:

http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...c-9k/510_2.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...c-9k/510_7.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...c-9k/510_4.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...-9k/510_16.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...c-9k/510_8.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...9k/510_6-1.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...c-9k/510_9.jpg
http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/n...-9k/510_11.jpg
Well, I know this is a Silvia Forum but it's still a Nissan!
Enjoy....

So, I want to do something about the air cleaner. It is stuffed into a corner and of what I've read, the MAF needs to be at 12 inches away from the turbo intake to register correctly. As long as that is satisfied, can I extend the intake to better locate the Turbo?

Yep, of course.

Sorry, to be more precise, can I extend the intake to better relocate the turbo air cleaner?

I know what you meant. Yes, you can.

intense


nice ass car though


and that's one big ass turbo to be running an internal wastegate?!?

i've never seen a top-mount run an internal wastegate

I'm new to Turbo powered engines so is the wastegate the thing coming off the turbo? What would be the other options? It does take a little bit for the turbo to spool up. Could that be why? I am into perfecting this ride and learning all kinds of Sh!t along the way so thanks!

If you're looking at the engine bay from the front, the wastegate is the round silver item to the left of the intake with a blue silicon hose going to it. This actuates a arm which opens a flapper door and allows the exhaust gas to bypass the turbine wheel in the exhaust housing to maintain the boost pressure that the wastegate actuator sees through that blue hose. This is all considered an internal wastegate, attached to and integrated to the turbo.

Another style of wastegate is an external one that is mounted inbetween the turbo and the engine and mounted on the area where all the runners of the exhaust meet together and enter the exhaust housing. This also has a silicon hose on it to control the boost pressure by opening to allow exhaust gas to be routed around the exhaust wheel and maintain a boost pressure.

The reason it takes a while for the turbo to spool up is because the engine has a shorter intake manifold, probably higher duration cams and a larger turbo. If you were to go back to a stock intake manifold you would see faster spool and a little less top end power but more in the mid range.

Awesome info! Luckily, the Datsun is a 73 so it is smog exempt. If I wanted to go to an external wastegate, I could.
For now, I do not feel any "turbo creep" so the internal waste gate is functioning well.
I have prioritized some other work to do on this car like instrumentation and electrical stuff (anyone know about gauges, gauging options and wiring? hahaha)
Since the 73 gauges were mostly all mechanical, non of them work and it doesn't have any guging except for fuel level. See, pretty imortant huh!
I am however, trying to learn as much as I can about this engine so thanks for all the info!

Sure what do you want to know?

I have a full 5 gauge Defi set installed in the OEM cluster unit.

That engine looks like it has been properly taken care of already. If you want to set that car off get some 15s or 16s SSR MKIIs and a new muffler!

Is it a 6 speed or a 5 speed?

Should be a 5 Speed.

I know what it should be. Was asking the OP.

FOr someone who acquired this car you sure did get lucky. Make sure you do AMPLE research ( not just starting threads but searching on sr20's) before tampering.

First off, got pics? Did you just gut the cluster and replace it with the Defi set? As you can see in the pic of my gauges, I want to keep the stock look but have them all functional. I'll have to take a look behind the dash but a stock cluster looks like this: