another thing id like to ad about how the car runs is the idle gets very high at times but doesnt jump around like a vacuum leak. it idles as high as 1600 rpm then 1100 is the norm

I checked my gas tank & no leaks. i just ordered my AEM A/F ratio sensor for my Gauge to see what its reading. (This is a must for turbo cars)
Also got the ECU checked by a friend of mine & its not throwing any codes

All i want is a nice healthy running SR

Also there are 3 FUEL lines coming from the back of the car to the front
i know one is obviously the feed line connected to the filter & theres a return line connected to the fuel pressure regulator. there is another line that is not connected to anything does anyone know whats its for should it be plugged up?

That's for the charcoal canister. I didn't plug mine. I don't know if that's right but I couldn't find a solid answer.

Because it costs an arm and a leg, and nets 0 gain, unless the engine is already past 450/500HP.

Cylinder 3 on its way out ... compression should be 150psi max, so it is likely the engine has been rebuilt and head was skimmed without a thicker headgasket. Or the compression tester is off.

Try doing the test again on cylinder 3, if compression goes back to normal after some tries you are likely to have worn / sticking valve. If it does not though, check cylinder 3, piston, bore and head for det damage. These engine usually kill the 3rd cylinder first around ringland.

I will run another compression test tomorrow. See what the numbers looks like. Yea, I was surprise to see 160 on 3 of them.

how did your compression test come out?
im thinking of buying a kit from harbor frieght im really worried my engine may be damaged.

I disagree. I believe they are a great addition to any 28RS or 2871r or larger turbo'd SR20. A good friend of mine went from a similar setup as mine and lost a smidge of torque down load (below the usable turbo area mind you) and netted much more HP and torque from 4500rpm+ over the stocker setup.

I wouldn't run it on a stock turbo type setup, but anything beyond that, coupled with nice cams, is a perfect setup if you ask me. I could care less abotu 2500-3500 rpm, the only time i'm there is during mundane driving...whereas when I'm having fun I never drop below 4500 rpm.

100% agree. I think often times new owners tend to forget that the engines they are dealing with are 15 years old, andhave often been abused by 2 owners at this point in their life. Sure people will find a few good ones, but most have toasty rod bearings and washed out ring seal by this point in life :D

The $$$$/HP gain ratio of these is ultra high compared to the $$$$/HP ratio of a bigger turbo, cams or any item that really increase power, that is what i meant. I mean ... they cost 1000$+ delivered. For what ? increased low end torque ? No thanks.

so would you recommend i just rebuild or buy another motor?
I keep debating the issue but im not building a drift or race spec car nor do i have the funds to.
My goal is to have a very fun daily with anywhere from 250-350hp.
I dont plan to keep the car unless i fall in love with it, but i still plan to keep it for 4 or 5 years.

It will always be better to build it then to buy another stock engine with miles already in it. & then you know what you have & know the history of the engine when it's freshly built.

I would think the manifold would lose low end tourque in favor of more top end hp.

On a 2871 and smaller turbo I would think a extrude honed intake manifold would be benificial.
Especially at widening the power band.

I love spartan

There are zero fuel leaks onto the floor. This is getting ridiculous I filled up the tank yesterday morning an 150miles later im on empty

The greddy mani is just a cast aluminium manifold.

I'm aware of that. I guess I need to be more clear. When I said a extrude honed intake manifold I am meaning a extrude honed stock intake manifold.

Changed oil (Amsoil 100% Synthetic 5w30) at a pep boys service station.
Found out a few things, the oil pan is slightly dented inward from the bottom, nothing major at all, the tension rod bushings are busted and getting worse, brakes are fading, and theres a nail in my rear tire which is slowly losing pressure.
but there was nothing else that lead to the cause of why my fuel is so bad, one of the guys there told me it probably needs a tune which would make a lot of sense. gonna invest in that soon. I was thinking of just getting a type of piggy back system like the Apexi Neo afc. Anything else in that price range you guys can recommend?

Also got ny z32 fuel filter today, this things huge! Prolly gonna swap it tomorrow. Gas consumption is still getting worse

So after doing a little reading i think a damaged o2 sensor might be the reason being my horrible mpg's also reading another helpful thread on Zilvia it says there are 2 different kind for the red top, the black top uses the z32 tt. from what i read i need "skinny" version for my red top can someone else confirm before i spend $90 on one.
Here's a link to one i found on ebay.
Genuine Nissan O2 Sensor Skinny SR20DET sr20 Silvia s13 180sx JDM 22690 50F00 | eBay

Did you check ur fpr? Did you try another set of injectors? Is your fuel pump healthy? These are all things you have to do before you waste more time and money.
Solution is get a daily! And yeah compression test it too!
Do you have a multimeter? Check your o/2 sensors!

Check my fpr for what? i dont have another set of injecotrs.
This car is my daily im trying to get it back to par.
Yes i have muiltimeter what should i use it on?
Getting o2 replaced this week.

If you have a stock SR20DET your spark plug gap needs to be 0.036". This will insure all the fuel gets burnt within the cylinder.

How the hell could I know if it has .0036 inch gap?

This is my fuel filter correct? What is that open line underneath? Its a hard line im wondering if its a fuel line also.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/o...psc3024244.jpg

I noticed injector 1 doesn't sit as flush as the others, could this be my problem?
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps7b998fee.jpg
I tried to pound it back in but I fucken broke the clip.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/o...psb27eca84.jpg

bump still need help

It's 0.036". And you pull the plugs out and use one of these...

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/ul...n001%20055.jpg

Which can be found at any auto parts store. Hell, I bet even Walmart has them.

So found this damage from charge pipe to intercooler.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps066a74f8.jpg
I couldn't find on of my damn spare couplers to fit because of this is how the charge pipe and the intercooler meet up.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps33ea7819.jpg
So my nerdy tech brother repaired it for me. Its just a temporary fix but it does the job.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/o...psf88a4cc9.jpg
Then this guy hoped in the passenger so I gave him my car...
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps8cd708a8.jpg
Lol so I would say 90% of my problems have been fixed just because of that. Not really smelling fuel any more, 100x more powerful I shit u not. And I went from getting 6mpg to about 26mpg all because that stupid rip. So im gonna cut the charge pipe so its straight then use a 90 degree angle coupler.

That open line looks like a vent for the fuel tank.

Yes, these are sold at walmart

Just wanted to give an update, the car has been running great, currently i am getting 26mpg 90% highway driving i can easily get 350+ miles on less then 15 gallons of ARCO 91 octane with chevron a little less. and these results are me driving pretty fast on those days im running late to work. hopefully when i get better suspension an smaller wheels i can get close to 30mpgs!